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Head Unit/Sound System - Access Cab

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by MurderedTaco, Nov 22, 2014.

  1. Nov 22, 2014 at 2:25 PM
    #1
    MurderedTaco

    MurderedTaco [OP] Member

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    BD
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    2.5" Front Lift. (Spacers in TRD Coils w/ Bilstien 5500s 2" Wheel Spacers x4. Fiberwerx Front Fenders TRD Rims Sprayed With Truck Bed Liner. 2" .120 Wall Rear Tube High Clearance Custom Bumper. Tail Gate Coated With Truck Bed Liner. Custom LED Tail Lights & Head Lights. Custom Billet Grill Sprayed With Truck Bed Liner. Cab Accents Sprayed With Truck Bed Liner. Pioneer 3Way sound system w/ Pyle 7" touch screen dash
    What up,

    Installed the Pyle 7" Touchscreen display, dash kit and 4 Pioneer TS 3Way speakers today:

    image.jpg

    I would like to add a 10" Sub. What sub/amp setup do you suggest? I'm thinking it would be best to run all 4 speakers and sub off one amp using a separate battery? Any suggestions?
     
  2. Nov 25, 2014 at 11:45 PM
    #2
    locomotive282

    locomotive282 Active Member

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    Need to know if you have the double cab or extended in order to recomend an enclosure.

    No need for dual battery for only one amp especially if you have the tow package.

    As far as amp setups there are three options for you.

    Mono Amp - HU feeds the four car door speakers, and a mono amp will drive the sub.

    Four channel amp - two channels power the front and rear door speakers and two channels are bridged mono to the sub.

    5 channel amp - each speaker recieves its own discrete amplifier channel

    I recommend the 5 channel amp setup.
     
  3. Nov 26, 2014 at 6:18 AM
    #3
    Lurkin

    Lurkin Well-Known Member

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    You forgot one setup, 4 channel amp, 2 channels to front main speakers, 2 channels bridged to sub, and HU power to rear speakers
     
  4. Nov 26, 2014 at 6:41 AM
    #4
    manethon

    manethon TTAS

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    or use a quality 4 or 5 channel amp,
    If the mids allow, bridge the 4 channels to 2 channels and provide additional power to the mids :)
     
  5. Nov 26, 2014 at 7:08 PM
    #5
    locomotive282

    locomotive282 Active Member

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    With an amp, I would never use the HU to power speakers. Alot of people say that the rear speakers are not necessary or they are just rear fill but I think they are crucial to good sound and to lower the overall bass response of the door speakers. With four good door speakers connected to a real amp they can output pretty nice bass. This lets you crossover the sub at a lower frequency like 60 Hz. Crossing over your sub lower lets it play louder and deeper and it sound like the bass is front of you instead of it all coming from the back.
     
  6. Nov 26, 2014 at 7:15 PM
    #6
    1993t100

    1993t100 I’m good looking and I drive a Jeep.

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    Nice! This is my head unit. I have a 10" sub behind the drivers seat. Only on 300watts, but it gets the job done and sounds decent for what I paid.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Nov 27, 2014 at 6:25 AM
    #7
    Lurkin

    Lurkin Well-Known Member

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    Really depends on what you want and how you want to do it. I have done it both ways, right now rears are on HUPower as I want to maintain the front sound stage. The hu provides enough power to the rears for when I turn them up some if I have passengers. My hu alows me to crossover the mains, rears and sub independently.

    End of the day it is preference though. If I were running 100+ watts to the mains, 15-20 to the rears might not be enough, and I would go ahead and run the lines from my amp to the rears.
     
  8. Nov 27, 2014 at 7:05 AM
    #8
    manethon

    manethon TTAS

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    I don't run rear fill and never would. It simply does not sound good, and almost impossible to get perfect time alignment and RTA scores. The best way to put it, we strive to have music sound in our car as if your at a concert facing the music. Close your eyes, sit back and not be able to tell where the music is coming from. If you can tell, your not set up right

    As for loco's argument. I don't agree at all but i know people have their preferences. Thats why SQ is subjective.

    Selecting the proper " mid range " speakers is imperative and not all speakers are made the same. Name brand has nothing to do with it. I run 8 inch mid range/mid bass typer speakers with a freq response down to 43hz, and crossed at 60hz is perfect. I want my speakers to play what they excel at. I simply would never rely on rear fill to add to the BASS. If i was running a subless setup, i would simply go custom front door panels and run a 3 way set up with a 8/6.5or (3-4inch)/ tweeter but that depends on what speakers are being used to achieve a flat response and also the lvl of processing you have.

    As for bass, My bass never sounds like it " comes from the back" but fills the entire cabin and the box design is based on the cab's resonant freq and other factors. Generally my systems have a flat response curve from 30hz all the way up to tweeter range.

    I will take a bridged 4 channel to power the fronts only vs all 4 doors 1000x over.
    Run the rears off deck power, to Fill the gap for the rear passengers when their in the truck.

    as for the Op
    If you just want louder then run the 4 channel to all 4 speakers front and rear, do a 60/40 split on the fade or which ever lvl you require to mostly hear the front and you cannot tell from the rear. Humans inherently have a hard time telling from which direction things are coming when its behind them so just make sure your gear is setup exactly how you want it and what sounds good to you.

    Most of my Friends can't stand to listen to a totally flat eq'd setup, it sounds weird to them. This is just how it goes
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2014

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