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Headers: DTLT vs DTST if planning on TRD S/C

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by BradleyJ33, Mar 21, 2012.

  1. Mar 21, 2012 at 11:59 AM
    #1
    BradleyJ33

    BradleyJ33 [OP] Geaux Tigers

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    TRD Supercharger with URD 2.825" Pulley, Toytec Ultimate Lift, LR UCAs, BFG All Terrain 275/70R17s on Procomp 7089 17" wheels, BAMF rock sliders, Viper 5902 alarm/remote start with smartstart, Pioneer Avic-Z110BT dvd/navi head unit, 2 Pioneer 7" monitors in headrests, 2 Rockford Fosgate Shallow-mount 10" subs pushed by RF Punch 500.2 amp, RF 5.25 components (front doors) and 5.25 full range (back doors) pushed by RF Power 400.4 amp, sound deadened, Whistler pro remote radar detector, scangauge II, debadged, Sockmonkey decals, blacked headlights with FX-R projectors, DDM Tuning HID fogs, Grillcraft upper and lower MX grill with Hella 500ffs converted to HIDs behind, AFE Stage 2 Cold Air Intake, Walbro 255 Fuel Pump upgrade, Dynomax Super Turbo muffler, Bestop Supertop, Wet Okole seat covers, Weathertech floor liners, Pop & Lock tailgate handle, Lighted 4x4 switch mod, 2 110v AC outlets in cab mod, Always at 400W mod, Maplights on with dome light mod, homelink in headliner mod, foglight
    Ok, so I'm planning on getting a TRD S/C in the very near future. I'm considering adding headers to it also, but I'm torn on which set to get. Since I'm getting the boost, should I opt for the shorties to gain some power in the lower RPMs since the boost will kick in at the higher RPMs? The main reason I'm contemplating the LTs is b/c they're bolt-on and I could install them myself. Anybody got any advice on this? Thanks in advance!
     
  2. Mar 21, 2012 at 12:05 PM
    #2
    BradleyJ33

    BradleyJ33 [OP] Geaux Tigers

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    Ah ok, so the blower will be more lower RPMs? I had that backwards in my head I guess...
     
  3. Mar 21, 2012 at 12:08 PM
    #3
    BradleyJ33

    BradleyJ33 [OP] Geaux Tigers

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    TRD Supercharger with URD 2.825" Pulley, Toytec Ultimate Lift, LR UCAs, BFG All Terrain 275/70R17s on Procomp 7089 17" wheels, BAMF rock sliders, Viper 5902 alarm/remote start with smartstart, Pioneer Avic-Z110BT dvd/navi head unit, 2 Pioneer 7" monitors in headrests, 2 Rockford Fosgate Shallow-mount 10" subs pushed by RF Punch 500.2 amp, RF 5.25 components (front doors) and 5.25 full range (back doors) pushed by RF Power 400.4 amp, sound deadened, Whistler pro remote radar detector, scangauge II, debadged, Sockmonkey decals, blacked headlights with FX-R projectors, DDM Tuning HID fogs, Grillcraft upper and lower MX grill with Hella 500ffs converted to HIDs behind, AFE Stage 2 Cold Air Intake, Walbro 255 Fuel Pump upgrade, Dynomax Super Turbo muffler, Bestop Supertop, Wet Okole seat covers, Weathertech floor liners, Pop & Lock tailgate handle, Lighted 4x4 switch mod, 2 110v AC outlets in cab mod, Always at 400W mod, Maplights on with dome light mod, homelink in headliner mod, foglight
    Ok perfect that helps, thanks. The main thing I need the extra power for is towing a 6x12 cargo trailer, boat, etc. But it's always fun to just open it up too!
     
  4. Mar 21, 2012 at 12:10 PM
    #4
    blackhawke88

    blackhawke88 wo ai ni bao bei ^_^

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    whatever helps you sleep at night ;)
     
  5. Mar 21, 2012 at 12:13 PM
    #5
    BradleyJ33

    BradleyJ33 [OP] Geaux Tigers

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    TRD Supercharger with URD 2.825" Pulley, Toytec Ultimate Lift, LR UCAs, BFG All Terrain 275/70R17s on Procomp 7089 17" wheels, BAMF rock sliders, Viper 5902 alarm/remote start with smartstart, Pioneer Avic-Z110BT dvd/navi head unit, 2 Pioneer 7" monitors in headrests, 2 Rockford Fosgate Shallow-mount 10" subs pushed by RF Punch 500.2 amp, RF 5.25 components (front doors) and 5.25 full range (back doors) pushed by RF Power 400.4 amp, sound deadened, Whistler pro remote radar detector, scangauge II, debadged, Sockmonkey decals, blacked headlights with FX-R projectors, DDM Tuning HID fogs, Grillcraft upper and lower MX grill with Hella 500ffs converted to HIDs behind, AFE Stage 2 Cold Air Intake, Walbro 255 Fuel Pump upgrade, Dynomax Super Turbo muffler, Bestop Supertop, Wet Okole seat covers, Weathertech floor liners, Pop & Lock tailgate handle, Lighted 4x4 switch mod, 2 110v AC outlets in cab mod, Always at 400W mod, Maplights on with dome light mod, homelink in headliner mod, foglight
    Haha yeah that's what I'm telling the wife anyway!

    Would it be worthwhile to get something like a MAF CAL or something to tune the engine for the headers, CAI, exhaust, and fuel pump upgrade I'm adding, or should the tuning at the stealership after the S/C install be sufficient?
     
  6. Mar 21, 2012 at 12:18 PM
    #6
    BradleyJ33

    BradleyJ33 [OP] Geaux Tigers

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    TRD Supercharger with URD 2.825" Pulley, Toytec Ultimate Lift, LR UCAs, BFG All Terrain 275/70R17s on Procomp 7089 17" wheels, BAMF rock sliders, Viper 5902 alarm/remote start with smartstart, Pioneer Avic-Z110BT dvd/navi head unit, 2 Pioneer 7" monitors in headrests, 2 Rockford Fosgate Shallow-mount 10" subs pushed by RF Punch 500.2 amp, RF 5.25 components (front doors) and 5.25 full range (back doors) pushed by RF Power 400.4 amp, sound deadened, Whistler pro remote radar detector, scangauge II, debadged, Sockmonkey decals, blacked headlights with FX-R projectors, DDM Tuning HID fogs, Grillcraft upper and lower MX grill with Hella 500ffs converted to HIDs behind, AFE Stage 2 Cold Air Intake, Walbro 255 Fuel Pump upgrade, Dynomax Super Turbo muffler, Bestop Supertop, Wet Okole seat covers, Weathertech floor liners, Pop & Lock tailgate handle, Lighted 4x4 switch mod, 2 110v AC outlets in cab mod, Always at 400W mod, Maplights on with dome light mod, homelink in headliner mod, foglight
    Yeah I'll definitely drop him an email and see what he thinks. Preciate the help! Rep sent!
     
  7. Mar 21, 2012 at 3:02 PM
    #7
    Robertgeejr1

    Robertgeejr1 Well-Known Member

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    I have done all the hi-pro mods for a life time, since I got this truck at a great price, I will be happy with showroom new.
    hello, I know its two different things but when I had my mustang, I was piece by piece building the 4.6 for a charger. and yes its a hard choice, and i learned a lot, and I talked to a lot of people about the right direction. now the the chargers, no matter the type as I was told, you have the power, you wont miss a few ponies or cant tell the few seconds for the boost to catch up. Its not a turbo, you step on it and wait for the countdown....
    and with both engines being overhead cams they do enjoy a rev or two, after you do a charger you want to watch the revs. too much will start wear.
    they advised me to get shorty headers, its a very solid match for the engine.
    and you don't have to worry about the back pressure. they told me some people had issues with back pressure and that messing with the computer controls on the supercharger. I dont know.. these guys were serous and they would lose me no matter how hard I tried, and this is with mustangs a issue about longtubes and the stress of chargers, and the heat and welds cracking, but ask people and take notes and write out your questions first.
    Now I put bbk shortys on and let me tell you that was the best money I ever spent on the car. you get a serious right off the line kick. I had planned on new tires at the end of summer, and after the headers it was sooo easy to smoke em 1 and 2 and 3rd they lasted till july and I had to grow up.
    and this, don't buy cheap ones, and they make good mounting bolt kits with hex nuts, do that
    and get the best exhust gasket you can find, don't reuse.
    and if you are not 110% confident you can do this and have some very good friends and family that will help you and a nice shop with tools....
    if you dont do headers right it will become a never ending nightmare. and I am ashamed to admit this but I knew someone who thought he could fix a shitty header install that cracked a weld with jb weld.... he got mad when I asked him if he rode the short bus to school!:eek:
    this is a BIG investment and you should get the best results for you money.
    and also there is no money back or exchange if you try it your self and mess something up.
     
  8. Mar 21, 2012 at 7:50 PM
    #8
    extremachn1

    extremachn1 I am an asshole, deal with it!

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    TRD S/C, TRD quick shifter, AFE CAI, Magnaflow cat back exhaust, Fox racing shocks, TC UCA, All-pro expo leafs, Bestop soft top, Wet Okole black seat covers, Scan gauge II.
    One thing to watch for is modding the engine to much. The TRD tune is very mild to say the least. Honestly, if you want more power and want to make the supercharger come alive. Go with the URD 2.8" under drive pulley. It will give you more grunt all over and is a better bang for the buck than the headers.

    The other thing you have to worry about is being a 2010 there is currently no real tuner for our engine. I am stuck with a cat back exhaust, under drive pulley, and CAI for the moment until a reliable tuner can be had. Then I will get into headers (shorty, better grunt for towing and offroading), and a few other goodies.
     
  9. Mar 22, 2012 at 7:24 AM
    #9
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    If you don't have to worry about emissions, then get the long tubes. If you do, get the short tubes. They obviously require a little more work, but help prevent hassle in the future. As long as a good shop does the catalytic swap.
     
  10. Mar 22, 2012 at 1:49 PM
    #10
    novanut21

    novanut21 Well-Known Member

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    AFE CAI, Magnaflow cat-back, TRD S/C, Silverstars, 5% tint, TRD Quickshifter, URD Fuel Pump Kit, Wet Okoles Front&Rear, WeatherTech Mats, Sockmonkey Decals, GrillCraft Grill, JBA "shorty" headers, URD Y-Pipe, TTC Oil Catch Can, Lotek Dual Apillar gauge pod w/ Autometer Phantom II AFR & Vac/Boost, URD Pulley.
    I went with the JBA shorties not due to emissions but due me upgrading to a URD Y-pipe which deleted my rear cats. I didnt want to go longtubes because it would delete all my cats and the exhaust is loud and raspy with LT's URD Y-pipe. And because your deleting the front set of converters you will need a set of O2 sims from URD to keep the CEL off.(But if you go with short tubes you dont need the O2 sims or a resonator) But if your keeping the stock y-pipe i'd go LT's with O2 sims. Or if your decide to go with a URD Y-pipe and LT's id recommend getting a resonator to quite down the exhaust and help elminate the rasp along with the O2 sims.
     
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