Headlight bulbs burning out

Hey 2nd Gen folks,

My ‘15 AC has blow two bulbs on the passenger side within about a month. Drivers side is fine.

Stock set up using Sylvania bulbs. No LEDs, no mods whatsoever to the electrical system.

Any thoughts on diagnosing?
Any thoughts on anything else related

TIA

 

I saw a little moisture in one of my housings prior to freeze up. Changed both rubber boots & haven’t seen any more yet. I’m thinkin’ moisture…..

 

Has to be contaminated or just bad luck. Any chance you touched the bulb or it got wet?

passenger side is a pain to get at, my guess is you touched the bulb to something

 

Thanks I haven’t noticed any moisture but will check more closely in the ‘morn.

 

is water getting inside
The lens should be sealed and some folks put a pack or two of silica gel hidden inside. Not sure if there’s moisture drain tubes; headlights usually do.

Are you touching the bulbs barehanded getting oil on them to cause premature failure

are the electrical connections there firmly seated, tight not worn out, and in good condition without corrosion

what condition is the housing in

are the bulbs from a legitimate source not counterfeit
and not dropped or impacts causing internal breakage

If it was me I’d either have replaced housings, ceramic harness, better bulbs
Or those other good bulbs that claim to achieve similar effect without the need for harness
Anything else I wouldn’t be wasting time on

 

I had gloves on when I installed

I find the passenger side easier than the driver’s side and the last change went smoothly.

I didn’t clean the connector though and the dielectric gease was piling up. I’m thinking of a bed of paper towles underneath and hitting it with some electrical cleaner. Maybe adjust the terminals if they look flat…

 

electrical cleaner spray can is a good thing to have.

idk about dielectric grease. Supposedly too much can be bad. There’s definitely other good products out there. Including deoxit.

though I did use some on my tow connector because it’s really exposed and outside contaminants tend to try and work their way into there on any truck.

Connector work is tricky regarding special tools to scuff up pins, make sure they’re not fatigued out of position, and inspecting the connector seal is good.

 

I always have electrical cleaner on hand!!

Thanks for the heads up on Deoxit I’ve always used a dab of the dielectric with no issues but I’m willing to try something else.

Also, unless O’Reillys, the major auto parts store in these parts, is selling counterfeit parts, I’m pretty sure they’re legit.

 

You might have got some of that grease on the glass part. If there’s too much grease, it could leach over to the glass. Clean the excess, try again.

 

Good point, thanks!

I installed the bulb, wearing gloves only touching the tangs, install the boot, then dab the grease before I put on the connector.

The boot and connector are in good condition.

 

We’re the bulbs from the same package?

 

Replaced headlights w/sylvania H1 the started getting moisture in both lenses. Used hairdryer to create Venturi suction and removed moisture. Vaselined the boot. Still gets moisture inside. Center hole was too small in boot to go around bulb’s fan so had to enlarge it. Fan sucks out air from enclosure but not enough to remove moisture. Seems a tight seal around fans. Then noticed 2 small orange gaskets included in box with bulbs.. no mention of them in install manual. Where’s this water coming from (it happens in the rain). Anyone have this problem?

 

Hyperflash fixes! Wanted to have DLR for safety. DLR choice is in lights stalk, not does nothing on the 2013 access cab. Installed LED with white and amber output (DLR and turn signal) and amber LEDs in tail fixtures: hyperflash resulted Neither style bulb has resistor (“can-bus”) built in so flash control module thinks a bulb is burned out and flashes fast so you (and police) know you’ve got a burned out incandescent bulb. (This is because the LED draws such little power). Dealer wants, get this, $260 to unplug and plug in specially designed LED flash module located impossibly under the dash, behind the fuse box (e.i. Labor!!). Lessons: make sure turn signal LED bulbs have built in resistors so it doesn’t fool the module to think it’s a burned out incandescent or expect a whopping labor cost to install a LED specific module that just plugs into the original 8 pin (2013 Tacoma) connection.

 

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