Heated Mirrors Kit - Interest / Update Thread (pic heavy)

Agreed, I'd rather install them now instead of when everything is cold and I start cussing my numb fingers.

 

I'm curious how 2lo is actually switched on. With only 4 connectors, there's no additional switch. Is there some kind of switching procedure with the factory 4wd switch?

 

Yes. There's a special sequence using the stock 4wd switch to activate 2lo. I don't have one yet, but he said theres confirmation of engagement from the dash lights - I assume the low range light (and maybe the locker light?)

 

The short answer is yes, it's been designed so that you can trigger without needing to add any extra switch. To enable the PCB you just hold the 4wd switch between 2hi and 4hi for 2 seconds, that will be followed with a dash light sequence confirming you have properly enabled the PCB.

I've made it so that you can also trigger with a switch if you prefer but the kit does not come with a switch since that starts to boil down to personal preference on size and style etc. The harness does have a 12v supply line to go to the switch and another line dedicated for the return from the switch.

It's set up so the PCB will give you a number of visual displays when you have made an action. As an example here is what you would see when you switch into 2lo, it will remain blinking like that until you take the truck out of 2lo so that you are never left guessing whether you are properly engaged or not.

http://vid306.photobucket.com/albums/nn257/Rental_Metard/IMG_2058_zps9eaogfso.mp4

 

hmm that video didn't load properly, I'm a newb at that kind of stuff. Let me try and fix it...

 

You fixed it as I can watch it.

 

ok perfect thanks!

 

So you hold it between 2hi and 4hi, it enables, then what? You move the knob to 4hi? Or you leave it in limbo between 2hi and 4hi?

 

I'll try to make a video or something for you guys to best show all of this. Basically to enter into 2lo a few things must occur:

1) The ADD (which allows power to be transferred to the front wheels) needs to not be engaged and remain that way
2) the 4WD ECU needs to be tricked into believing that the ADD IS engaged
3) The truck then needs to be shifted into 4lo as you normally would

So to actually put yourself into 2lo you would need to first enable the PCB (hold between 2hi and 4hi for 2 seconds), wait for the visual confirmation that this has occurred, then shift into 4lo as you normally would.

If you attempt to enable the PCB from 4hi as an example (a position where the ADD would already be locked) the PCB will automatically shift the truck down to 2hi for you, then enable (lock out the ADD), and then return to 4hi.

Give me a few minutes and I'll do a video of that with my phone.

 

Any chance that you will be incorporating the anytime locker mod into this?

 

Imagine swapping to a FJ case, that would negate all of this other than the need to activate the ADD, right?

 

So I realized as I was uploading this I probably should have just gave commentary as I filmed... would have saved me the time of typing this out lol.

Sequence of events in this video
- Truck starting from the 4hi position the switch is held between 2hi and 4hi for 2 seconds activating the PCB
- PCB detects that the truck is in 4hi (not good, ADD is locked)
- Automatically shifts the truck down to 2hi where the ADD will not be locked
- Once in 2hi the PCB freezes out the ADD in the unlocked position and provides a visual confirmation
- Truck shifts back into 4hi

I then manually shift the truck into 4lo (2lo) and a visual display is sent to the dash confirming that I am actually in 2lo not 4lo

To disable the PCB just return the switch to the 2hi position which also produces a visual on the dash confirming the PCB has disabled and the ADD will lock / unlock as it normally would.

http://vid306.photobucket.com/albums/nn257/Rental_Metard/IMG_2064_zps7dwykwtb.mp4

Technically the PCB could actually handle the entire process automatically and put you right into 2lo, but once again I wanted to avoid bypassing any safeties that Toyota put in place. The way the PCB is designed it is actually still the 4WD ECU doing all of the work, but the PCB is just sending it the commands to do so. What that boils down to is the truck will ONLY shift into 2lo when it is safe to do so since it is the 4WD ECU handling that part.

Hope that makes sense!

 

Most likely not. If a ton of people wanted it I could have a look, but my understanding is the locker anytime mod is a fairly simple mod as a DIY.

I'd have to have a look, but I believe (could be wrong) the guys who have done that end up with a twin stick. One of them replacing the ADD. If that were the case you should be 2lo capable by just shifting to 4lo but not shifting in the other one to lock in power to the front.

 

Also should mention that is a Hilux switch in the video, but I have tested this on the stock Tacoma switch too.

 

Soooo, you have to go from 2hi to 4hi to 1/2 way between, wait 2 seconds, then to 4lo? You can't just go 2hi to 1/2 way between, wait 2 seconds, then straight to 4lo?

 

How would a switch work with this? What would the procedure be then? And would it be a single pole switch (on/off)?

 

I believe he was showing the procedure of the module, if you were already in 4wd, how it would unlock the ADD first and go into 2lo.

 

Nope the second option you mentioned works just fine. I used that only as an example to show the PCB will detect if you try and do it from a position where the ADD is already locked. If you start from 2hi then you would just enable the PCB and then shift to 4lo.

Using a switch is very similar to using the 4WD switch. You just push the switch in and the PCB will enable. Or like in the video if you attempt from 4hi then it will shift you to 2hi, enable and then shift back to 4hi. There is a jumper on the top of the PCB, if you want to use a separate switch you just remove the jumper cap or if you want to use the 4wd switch you would leave the cap on. Any latching switch will work, the PCB just needs to see a constant 12v supply to be enabled. @Pigpen will be using one like this but in a different color.

Yep exactly

 

Ah, OK, now it all makes sense. I'm in. How much, when can I pay?

 

This is the cap that would get removed from the jumper if you wanted to use a separate switch to activate the PCB. The jumper is just there so it knows which activation method you will be using.