Heater not working - beyond the obvious - please help!

I think I got all the air out of the system, it was parked in my driveway which as a little bit of an incline (front of the truck was higher than the back). I took off the rad cap, ran the truck and repeatedly squeezed all associated hoses until little air bubbles stopped coming out, then I let it run for a while and revved the engine several times until no more little bubbles came out. I did all of this with the heater on high and the heater control valve in the fully open position. I'm open to other tips or tricks though...

I've tried to do some searching for a door actuator, heat actuator, cold/hot actuator, things like that and I'm coming up empty... autozone and oreillys don't have any part similar to what I'm searching. I read a forum on highlanders that said when trucks have a heater control valve, they don't use an actuator, so I'm not sure I even have one especially since I can't find to the part to buy...

Any other advice or tips would be much appreciated... Maybe there's some other sensor or something... The AC blows cold, all the different vent combos still work (head only, head/feet, feet only, etc...) Is there anything else that controls hot air coming from the vents? I figured it would work when I moved the heater control valve to fully open, like I said all the hoses to and from the fire wall were hot to the touch when I did that...

Thanks again guys, it's cold here now and heat would be awesome!

 

You will have to buy the part from a dealer or online. Research is your friend.

Since the heater core is getting hot......your problem is in the ducting up in the dash.
THE ONLY WAY that you are NOT getting heat into the ducting is:
1. The actuator(blend door) is not working. The actuator redirects air from hot to cold......cold to hot depending on the temp knob position.
2. Fan is not working.
3. Heater core is plugged up to the point air will not flow thru it.
4. Blend door is broken.

Anyways, if you want heat, your going to have to start taking stuff apart.

 

The blend door won't be sold at Autozone. It's not a wear part that breaks often. But you certainly have one. It could be the cable came loose.

All the air goes through the AC evaporator core. The air is then directed through the heater core or around it by the flapper, so the evaporator core will clog first if a mouse or anything got in there.

Just get a mirror or remove the glove box to get a view of the area between the AC evaporator core and the heater core to check the blend door mechanism.

 

Steps to check servo motor in pdf file

 

Anyone ever have problems with just one setting not working? the one that hits your feet comes out the defrost vent etc.. THanks

 

iT NEVER COMES OUT THE BOTTOM EVen on defrost/heat?

 

no I am pretty sure, it does when its on defrost/heat
but not on just floor heat, Ill check at lunch

 

Stinkin OP went awol without a conclusion hu??

 

No respect I say

 

Unfortunately I haven't had any more time to mess with it lately with the holidays... I have searched for the "heat blend door actuator" online a few times since getting that advice a couple weeks ago and have always come up short. Could it be called something else? Does anyone know a way to test it? I might have time this weekend to take a look at it. It feels like I hit a dead end when I can't seem to find that part anywhere...
Thanks again y'all

 

Honestly sounds like the heater core

 

I always thought guys could literally reach under the dash and move the lil arm on that dealio to either test and or just manipulate it to where you want it at the time for cabin temp?? I've got no personal experience with it but i swear its not something that should be hard to find up under there. I know ive seen a few threads over the years on this subject. I may be thinking of something else possibly though...

 

Its called "air mix servo motor" and I uploaded the pdf from FSM IN POST ABOVE.

 

Have you tried just selling it and getting a 17 model?

 

That would be like selling platinum to buy some really expensive overpriced cast iron that could break if accidentally mishandled....lol

 

Okay, I should have time to take a look today... thanks

Yea I took a look at the PDF, thanks for posting that.

Hopefully I can have an update soon, with the holidays it got moved to the back burner and I've just been dressing very warm when I drive it lol

 

Its probably the heater valve thats mounted to the firewall. There is a linkage to actuate the cold/hot mix. It should be easy enough to check. I bet that shit is clogged up with some Stop-leak from Walmart.

Hes going to have to remove the glovebox and center dash panels to get to that mix servo IIRC.

 

Your first clue should be your cold lower rad hose. Both hoses should be hot. Sounds to me you are not getting coolant circulation and or still have air in the system. With the rad cap off and vehicle running look inside the radiator to confirm fluid is moving/swirling. If it is not I would inspect the water pump fins. It's also still possible to have air stuck in the system. Best way to remove it is to use an "air lift" tool which puts the cooling system under a vaccume to remove all air. The radiator still may be blocked up as well. Get that lower hose hot and you will have heat.

 

Air lift tool? Please elaborate. If outside temperatures are low enough the lower hose won't be hot.

 

Sure it will. Once the truck reaches temp and coolant is flowing both hoses will be hot regardless of outside temps. Espically if the vehicle is not moving.

Google air lift cooling system tool. It's a lifesaver and time saver plus it will fill the cooling system back up as well