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HELP¡!¡! Installed winch, nearly burned my truck to the ground

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Gunrunner269, May 7, 2019.

  1. May 8, 2019 at 7:09 PM
    #41
    Exracer2

    Exracer2 Well-Known Member

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    I am blown away that everyone assumes the solenoid is faulty. Solenoids are always normally open. It needed to be actuated somehow at least once to fail.

    My gut in this is it was wired incorrectly.

    Immediately upon making contact with the battery it was under load. This was evidenced by the motor running and the sparking “so hard” it melted the battery terminals. My initial guess is the control wiring is closed causing the solenoid to immediately close and run the winch motor. The other guess is the load wiring is closed bypassing the solenoid completely. Now the ground wire that smoked is confusing. Why is there a sub 10ga wire grounding the motor to the solenoid? Is it a ground or a bond wire?

    I have seen solenoids weld themselves closed. But they were well abused and were actuated and then stayed closed. They didn’t close all by themselves.
     
    Digiratus, Beretta4x4 and 0xDEADBEEF like this.
  2. May 8, 2019 at 8:49 PM
    #42
    Digiratus

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    Solenoids fail, but not like this.

    This setup is incorrectly wired. I'm thinking that two of the four cables that connect to the solenoid are swapped. The two center ones to the solenoid are the ones that are swapped. This would put the power from the + battery post to the solenoid terminal that should be connected to terminal B.
     
    MonkeyProof likes this.
  3. May 8, 2019 at 11:49 PM
    #43
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Hard to trouble shoot from far away we will just have to watch how things play out
     
  4. May 9, 2019 at 2:07 PM
    #44
    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof Power Top

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    I'm thinking the same thing. And maybe some of the connectors on the small gauge wires are not factory at the solenoid which suggests that the OP had everything disconnected.

    xrc.jpg
     
    Gunrunner269[OP] and mynewtoy like this.
  5. May 9, 2019 at 3:46 PM
    #45
    Gunrunner269

    Gunrunner269 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, this is what I was looking for when I started this thread.

    I had the #3 & #4 cables backwards, as well as the red & white leads. At first I only noticed the cables. I switched them & it still sparked & started spooling. Then I noticed the wires were also mixed.

    However, now that everything is correct wired there is nothing. I plugged in the wired remote & got nothing. Ran the power/out leads directly to the battery & it immediately blew the fuse 3A in the solenoid.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2019
  6. May 9, 2019 at 4:50 PM
    #46
    Exracer2

    Exracer2 Well-Known Member

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    Do you have a multimeter?

    I think there are some basic mistakes you are making. This really isn’t that complicated. One solenoid controls one direction and the other one the other direction. Your comments about the 3a fuse are confusing. It indicates you still have a wiring issue. There are two basic circuits here. Control and load. That 3a fuse should be on the control wiring.

    I would suggest finding someone local to work with you. Your description is confusing which means it is almost impossible to troubleshoot across the internet. A few minutes with a multimeter I am sure we could sort your wiring. It may be a solenoid issue now after the previous wiring issues. Without a multimeter you don’t know if you are chasing the same issues or new ones. I personally would be verifying the solenoid operation using control logic only and verifying with a continuity test across the load contacts.
     
    cruiserguy likes this.
  7. May 9, 2019 at 5:00 PM
    #47
    Gunrunner269

    Gunrunner269 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes, the 3a fuse on the controller wiring. It popped as soon as I connected battery power & moved the controller.

    I have a multimeter but my electrical knowledge is limited to car audio. I turn wrenches for a living, wires confuse me.
     
  8. May 9, 2019 at 5:10 PM
    #48
    rnish

    rnish Well-Known Member

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    Everybody keeps calling it a "solenoid". My money is on its a solid state relay. Logically the same as a solenoid, however the failure mode is dependent on the properties of the solid state device (e.g., is it a MOSFET, SCR etc).

    So the fail open or fail closed scenario is hard to know unless you know the behavior of the particular device.
     
  9. May 9, 2019 at 5:46 PM
    #49
    MonkeyProof

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    We are talking about a "solenoid" that controls a winch
     
    mynewtoy likes this.
  10. May 9, 2019 at 5:58 PM
    #50
    0xDEADBEEF

    0xDEADBEEF Swaying to the Symphony of Destruction

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    An SSR seems possible, although the prices for solid state relay that handle this kind of current are pretty high, so I would expect a mechanical solenoid.


    That said, it might have some diodes or other safety stuff that might be toast.


    If it were me I'd disconnect each wire one at a time and ring them out with a meter, then check them off on the drawing once I was also certain they were connected correctly.

    Edit:. Id also consider bench testing the solenoid box so I knew what it was supposed to do, and that it was actually doing it.
     
  11. May 9, 2019 at 7:29 PM
    #51
    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof Power Top

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