Help 09 clutch noise and power steering

1. Everything clutch related replaced June of 2022 including the metal sleeve and new bearing fix. It is a 6spd btw
Here's the issue:
When it's not turned on and I push the pedal in, before it's ran, there is a squeak.
When it's running in neutral I hear the metal shearing/ squeaking sound, BUT, if I put any pressure on the pedal or push it further down, the noise goes away started and in neutral.
I contacted PDM, the maker of the sleeve/ bearing kit. He asked me if I had my frame replaced, I said yes in June of 2020. He said the dealership messed up the rod length of the pedal slave cylinder under the dash and I need to adjust it. I did, but thought I wasn't doing anything in adjusting it. WHAT A LAUGH! It is race car, of the floor,barely have to lift your foot CLOSE. BUT the noise did not go away, but same thing, if I push down slightly on the pedal, the noise goes away when running in neutral and the nonrunning squeak is audible.
The noise can be heard driving along @ lower speeds (turn up my radio right?).
So make sure you read this post before you answer because I AM @ A LOSE and so are my car buddies and some big box,over the counter stores. Some of those guys are really knowledgeable.

When I first had the sleeve and bearing put on, the guys who did it in August of 2019 DID NOT PUT THE SMALL COVER DIRECTLY IN THE U DER BELLY CENTER OF THE TRANSMISSION TUNNEL BACK ON. They must have lost it but I put the new stuff on the next summer and did not see it.

Could this be the problem. The shearing/ squeal is getting louder.

Never mind the power steering. I'll ask later, just help me AND if anyone can point me to the tiny little cover let me know.
Thanks Brian

 

The only way rod length could solve noise would be if you adjusted the rod to be longer by so much that it pushed against the backside of the pedal hard and the hydraulics started to press on the pressure plate and nearly disengage the clutch. That would replicate what you are doing by pressing the pedal slightly and the noise going away. However, that is not how it’s supposed to be at all, there is supposed to be a factory specified small amount of free play at the top of the pedal specifically to make sure the pedal is not acting on the system at all at rest.

What you did to the pedal rod is shortened it which is why it’s now barely disengaging the clutch all the way and so when you start to lift off the floor it immediately starts to grab. That’s bad too, but in the opposite direction.

Throw out bearings are designed to be pushed up to the clutch by a spring in the slave cylinder. They are designed to spin full time. I don’t trust the aftermarket stuff like URD or what you have or similar, because there is no telling if the stock design intent was upheld or not. A lot of them seem to think a bearing not spinning at rest Is better than one spinning full time. If the bearing is not spinning when you press the clutch, then it has to get up to speed really quickly which is a lot to ask of the rollers in the bearing. Could also cause the front of the bearing to drag/scrape on the pressure plate fingers before it’s up to speed.

The stock setup isn’t perfect either, but mostly
because the factory mixed and matched Luk and Aisin TOBs and pressure plates which were not built to the same dimensions, so the wrong combo of parts could definitely be extra problematic. The best setup is to stick to the same brand of clutch and bearing (both factory, but stick to either Luk or Aisin - I believe Aisin is the only option from the dealers these days) and stick to the stock design.

Don’t really know where I’m going with this now, but the short of it is that adjusting the pedal rod at the master is probably not the right fix and I highly doubt it has anything to do with the dealer or the frame swap. It’s more likely the aftermarket part not lasting.