Help! 4th bad clutch on 2014

BUT.... if you want to go really fast you shouldnt take your foot off the gas pedal when you shift. Just keep the gas floored and shift away. That shaves off *many* seconds when taking off from a light.

 

Nominated for best post in a thread today. Runner up is scottalot for teen spirit.

 

And this is why the manual transmissions are a dying breed.

I suggest finding a different mechanic and having it fixed one more time.

If that clutch fails as predicted, the variable has been changed and the problem identified.

Adjust the nut between the seat and the steering wheel. Problem solved.

 

It's either operator error, or you've really pissed off the Gods, and no vehicle that you buy is going to survive your use beyond the short-term.

I've been driving standard for 25+ years. Learned on standard, and it is my preference to drive standard.

The Tacoma is my first "New" vehicle that i have ever owned. The other 5 standards were bought used, and beaten down the road for 4-7 years each, until they pretty much rusted to death. I wouldn't consider myself a 'careful' user of the stick-shift .. indeed i pretty much beat on the transmission, in whichever vehicle it happens to be in.

Never have i replaced a manual clutch, or needed anything more than a servicing inspection on that portion of a vehicle.

On the other hand, the one auto transmission vehicle that i have ever owned 'blew a tranny' hauling a light duty trailer weighing perhaps 1100 lbs loaded .. and that tranny was rated for 4500lbs.

Re-examine your driving/controls technique, before you blame a likely blameless transmission issue on Toyota..

 

Don't have a manny in my Tacoma. Do they use a self adjusting clutch?

 

I am not sure, I have never had to adjust it. Had the throw out bearing fail on my first taco a few times, from water and mud etc combined with the shitty design. that was 2008.

I took the pedal apart once to try and fix the squeak but I cannot remember its been a few years.

The 2013 has had no probs.

 

Check the back of the pedal, adjust it out (so that you have to push the pedal farther before it disengages the clutch)

to be safe, adjust it farther than you would normally want it by a tad. Drive it with the new clutch for 10k miles, if the clutch fails again...

That could, potentially cause the same problem as riding with your foot on the pedal if its out of whack. I doubt it is, bring it up to the tech and have them check.

 

Troll?

 

Ok. Reason I ask is I had a '87 Mustang 5.0. It had a self adjusting clutch. It would eat a clutch in 15k. After the first clutch went, I removed the adjuster assembly in the cable/pedal assembly and ran a straight cable from Saleen. No problems after. The self adjuster literally "rode" the clutch like you had your foot on the pedal.

 

That is what I figured after I posted the first reply.

If I remember right, it is a regular old hydraulic clutch system with the run of the mill jamb nut for adjusting.. just some hokey plastic pedal and arm BS.. but my memory sucks..

It is worth checking anyway.

 

I knew a guy who drove a manual and had really bad clutch problems. He sold it and bought an auto. He started having really bad brake problems. Go figure???

 

Isn't it obvious? Seriously, a dude named "Laurie"?

Here's a picture of "Laurie"

 

That would have been obvious when the old clutch was removed... Just sayin.

 

Like my grandpa said " never trust a man named "Laurie".

I've been driving standard shift vehicles since I was 14 years old. I will be 60 next month March. In alllll of those years driving I may have gone through 4 drive clutches. That is 46 years driving a manual of some kind. My last truck was a 1993 with the original clutch when I sold it in 2012...

Som Ting Wong!

 

You're very right, it could well be that the pushrod on the master cylinder is adjusted too long, which will cause the cylinder to not fully retract, and hold some hydraulic pressure in the line / slave cylinder. A faulty master cylinder could also do the same, if the spill port is plugged or incorrectly positioned.

The LUK clutches are also known problems in these 4cyl trucks as well, with many premature failures, maybe the dealer is replacing them with the same, instead of following the TSB and replacing the LUK clutch with an Aisin clutch.

 

Yea my 2008 had the LUK shit.. replaced the disk with aisian. . Throw out bearing is the weak point, the 5spd is a damn tough trans and its a good size clutch. I towed 8k pounds on mine, beat the dog shit out of the truck, wheeled the death out of it etc. Lots of heavy heavy duty use on the poor clutch, and trans. It was no sweat except the piss poor throw out bearing is prone to failure if it gets wet or anything else.. Luckily I do my own work so it really never cost me anything but a little time.

Op check those things out, and you will have a good truck. My 2008 crapped out an engine from extreme use likely, but it starved of oil at a steep angle when I had the truck stuck hammering on it.. pounded a rod bearing.. everything is still clean aside from that in the engine. It is a very impressively built little 4cyl.

 

LOL...don't think I didn't try. But it was the 2.8 v6 model. It was a GREAT engine (sold it 13 years old with 196k, almost perfect miles), but it required rain and bald tires to "get a wheel".

 

There was nothing obvious on the surface. It took the third time before we saw anything suspect so it must have been pretty mild for a while. My dad thought I was just driving it hard. Granted, I was 19 so that wasn't a stretch. It lasted much longer after the last replacement. My uncle bought it and had no problems either.

 

uh? my '12 was a stick.. put 82000 min two yrs never had an issues with it only fix the sqeak tb . .. say the op must have "ride" the clutch.