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HELP: Can't figure what amp top run for my sub and speakers

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by Ciacci24, Jan 31, 2012.

  1. Jan 31, 2012 at 11:22 AM
    #1
    Ciacci24

    Ciacci24 [OP] Member

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    I have a 2012 tacoma double cab and i know what speakers and subs i want just don't know what amps i should use. Here is my break down

    Headunit:
    Pioneer AVIC-z130bt

    Speakers:
    Infinity Kappa 693.9i- 6x9 3 way
    rms- 110 watts
    peark- 330 watts
    sensitivitiy 96dB
    Frequenecy response 35Hz-30kHz

    Infinity Kappa 60.9cs- 6 1/2 2-way component system
    rms- 90 watts
    peak- 270 watts
    sensitvity 95 dB
    Frequency Response 45Hz-35kHz

    Subs:
    2- JL 13Tw5
    rms- 600 watts
    recommended RMS amp power 250-600 watts

    I'm looking for 2 amps one for the speakers and one for just the subs. Anyone have any ideas. Thanks
     
  2. Jan 31, 2012 at 1:09 PM
    #2
    mattg43

    mattg43 Well-Known Member

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    Budget?

    size an issue?

    Consider a JL HD 900/5 for a single amp solution.
     
  3. Jan 31, 2012 at 1:20 PM
    #3
    Warhorseforever

    Warhorseforever Will The Thrill

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    Kenwood KDC-348U HU Kicker DS65 Front Doors Only 2 Polk Audio MM840 Kenwood KAC 8105D for subs SuperCrewSound.com behind rear seat sub box
    So you have four(4) mid/high range speakers? That JL looks to be the way to go if you've got the cash, no first hand experience but I would not hesitate in buying anything JL. For the mid/high's I'd do a Kenwood Excelon X600F. It is a great amp for a decent price I love this amp and I am speaking from first hand experience here. For the subs I'd run a Kicker DX1000.1 again it's a great amp that I wouldn't hesitate to run in my truck on my system if I needed an amp this strong. Decent price great amp
    http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113X600F/Kenwood-Excelon-X600F.html?tp=35782&nvpair=FFBrand|Kenwood

    http://www.crutchfield.com/p_20610DX1K1/Kicker-10DX1000-1.html?search=Kicker_1000.1&skipvs=T
     
  4. Jan 31, 2012 at 3:54 PM
    #4
    06SR5canada

    06SR5canada Well-Known Member

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    Anyone here not a JL nut hugger?
     
  5. Jan 31, 2012 at 5:51 PM
    #5
    XJBaylor

    XJBaylor Well-Known Member

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    Oh that's right. Sundown is the best answer to every question.

    To the OP, look at the multi-channel class-D amps. The XR5-S and JL HD 900/5 are good options if you want to go for a single amp solution. If you want to run a 4 channel and a mono-amp your choices are just about endless.

    Don't worry about finding the perfect amp. Look at price, size and power requirements. The amp that most closely meets your needs in those three categories will likely be your winner.
     
  6. Jan 31, 2012 at 6:00 PM
    #6
    mattg43

    mattg43 Well-Known Member

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    One cannot expect much more from someone who has shown themselves to be nothing more than an immature brand whore. They are in every hobby and area, so why bother with this one?

    At some point he will grow up and realize there is more to a product than the brand, and one can find suitable products from many different companies.

    I like Sundown as much as the next guy, and have their product in my gear closet. But it doesnt matter, since I recommend a single amp solution matching the stated power desires, and it happens to be a JL...


    The XR5s would be high on my list, if the OP can sacrifice a smidgen of sub performance, but since they are running a pair of 13" subs, this may not be a reasonable sacrifice.
     
  7. Feb 1, 2012 at 11:50 PM
    #7
    DevL

    DevL Well-Known Member

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    I have a 900/5... I think the sub section is a lil weak. Love your speaker selection for subs though. I only have enough power to feel my subs in my nose... not enough to feel it in my sinuses and throat. How much bass do you want?

    To get my subs to bump I have to run my gains pretty high. Then I have to boost my sub level... then again my subs are not efficient. 2 IDQ 10s
     
  8. Feb 2, 2012 at 1:50 PM
    #8
    Ciacci24

    Ciacci24 [OP] Member

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    Price isn't really to big of an issue, i just want to make sure i have enough power to run the subs. Thats why i choose to have a seperate amp for the subs by itself. I prefer to have good bass thats why i figure to get 2 jl 13tw5 instead of just one.

    Also i'm not to sure what size amp i should get for the speakers that won't over power and over heat them. I'm debating between either a 4-channel so i can fade left, right, front, back or just do a 2-channel and just do left and right. Any ideas what size amp for the speakers. I mostly had kicker before for subs and speakers, so not to sure what else would be a good brand and wattage.

    For the subs i love bass but don't want to sacrifice to much room. that's the reason for the shallow mount jl's
     
  9. Feb 2, 2012 at 1:56 PM
    #9
    tostidos

    tostidos Well-Known Member

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    look for a 75w x 4 channel amp for your speakers and you answered your own question on the amp for the subs. I went with pioneer but I'm sure you can go to www.sonicelectronix.com and find what you need at a good price
     
  10. Feb 2, 2012 at 1:58 PM
    #10
    tostidos

    tostidos Well-Known Member

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    i was told you should get an amp that runs a 15% lower RMS than your speakers and 75w should put you around that for your 90w rms speakers
     
  11. Feb 2, 2012 at 1:58 PM
    #11
    mattg43

    mattg43 Well-Known Member

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    I was referring to physical size - What space are you putting these in, max dimensions.

    As to power, I would stick to around RMS. I would run 50-100w per channel to the doors, and 700-1kw to the subs. Keep it simple.
     
  12. Feb 3, 2012 at 12:21 AM
    #12
    Ciacci24

    Ciacci24 [OP] Member

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    I thought u were suppose to match the watts of the rms.. And for the sub I having a friend build the box.. Probably both sides of behind the seats. N have the amps under the seats..
     
  13. Feb 3, 2012 at 5:36 AM
    #13
    XJBaylor

    XJBaylor Well-Known Member

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    If you have the amps under the seat you have to be focused on the physical dimensions. If the amp has all the wiring on one side that would be ideal, especially if all of the adjustments were on the other side. Once you pull the seats you will realize that there is already a perfect channel through which to run all the wires just to the front of where the amp will go, just behind the forward attachment point for the seat itself. This way you could have the wiring coming from the amp going directly into that channel, and the controls would be easily accessible from the back seat area.

    The Kenwood XR-4s and XR-1s would make a great setup with a VERY clean install. The only other option that has a small form factor AND the same wiring/control setup is the JL HD series, which gets expensive fast and doesn't have any real advantages (IMO) over the XR series.

    If you purchase an amp with wiring on two sides you will end up with something like I have in the pictures below. I have since cleaned it up some, but I still didn't have the space vertically to comfortably run all of the wiring directly under the amp, which would have been my first choice. The picture does show you the channel I mentioned.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Feb 3, 2012 at 6:53 AM
    #14
    tostidos

    tostidos Well-Known Member

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    Yes ideally that would work I think the 75% is a safety buffer so you don't blow your speaker when it peaks.
     
  15. Feb 3, 2012 at 7:19 AM
    #15
    06SR5canada

    06SR5canada Well-Known Member

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    I'll be running my dls comps at twice the rated power, over powering is not the sole reason you'll blow a speaker or subwoofer
     
  16. Feb 3, 2012 at 8:15 AM
    #16
    tostidos

    tostidos Well-Known Member

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    no but it sounds like a step in the right direction?
     
  17. Feb 3, 2012 at 9:50 AM
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    DevL

    DevL Well-Known Member

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    A REAL 600 watt amp would be plenty. I feel like the 900/5 is not as good as a seperate sub amp on the sub channel. For mids and highs do 100x4.
     
  18. Feb 3, 2012 at 11:40 AM
    #18
    Cinco

    Cinco Team no taco

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    Nope
    meh
    nope
    I do this also....

    Okay quickly ill explain. You want to have the biggest amp to an extent. If your speakers are say 75wrms then there is nothing wrong with having a amp that does 150. By buying a more powerful amp you allow yourself "headroom" meaning you can power the speakers with the gain lower. With the gain lower it will not work the amp as hard allowing a cleaner signal to the speakers. The amp wont heat up and it wont clip which could destroy your speakers from the distorted signal that causes heat then driver failure. Now underpowering doesnt hurt but when you have to crank the gains on your amp you have a problem. 75w of clean power is very different then 50w of a clipped signal.

    I always run the most powerful amp I can for whatever situation I'm in. Now I'm not saying you should buy a 2500wrms amp but if your speakers say 100w and your amp does 125 your better off then running a smaller amp at full tilt.
     
  19. Feb 3, 2012 at 12:25 PM
    #19
    Ciacci24

    Ciacci24 [OP] Member

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    So my 6x9 are 110 and my 6.5 are 90. so should i just get an amp that is 100 watt x 4 channel.

    i'm looking at a kicker zx650.4 runs 4 ohms: 120 watts x 4 chan. / 2 ohms: 160 watts x 4 chan / bridged 4 ohms: 320 x 3 chan

    if not this one then kicker zx350.4 2 ohms: 90 watts x 4 chan / 4 ophs: 175 watts x 2 chan

    or should i just get a kicker dx400.4 2 ohms: 100 watts x 4 chan / 4 ohms: 200 watts x 2 chan

    I like these kicker amps since they have all the crossovers and stuff on the top for easy access. If i can't fit the amp under the seat then i might just get one sub and mount the amp and sub next to each other
     
  20. Feb 3, 2012 at 12:37 PM
    #20
    XJBaylor

    XJBaylor Well-Known Member

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    I would get an amp that is at least 100x4. Don't worry if the amp that fits your requirements is significantly more than that, it won't hurt anything. If anything it will make it easier for you to show restraint.

    Remember, it isn't the amount of power you are worried about, it is the quality of the signal. The easiest ways to feed your speakers a poor quality signal are to increase the gain and crank up the volume, both more common when speakers are under-powered.
     
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