Help! Can't separate transmission from engine!

Same issue. I am now thinking of using a ratchet strap around the rear axle and the output flange or some other place I can attach it? If that won't work, maybe I can borrow/rent a come-a-long? It's really jammed on and won't budge. Can't really do the stomp on clutch thing, as the release cylinder is toast too. Any other suggestions? Will I break anything?

 

It really is usually the dowels seized up from being a tight fit. dissimilar metals and being under there together for so long. (Do something wrong and have to take it right back apart and they usually break easy)
Get as close as you can to the dowels and start wedging, something small like a sharp screwdriver, they work to a prybar, a little on each side.
I'm not going to poohpooh the idea of a come along to put SOME pressure but be extremely careful pulling apart 2 heavy objects. They swing when they break.

In all reality wedging it is the safest, easiest most trusted way to do this, just take your time and BE CAREFUL under there. There's no where to run if things go wrong.

BTW a little dab of never seize (hell, even bearing grease) on the dowels will make it easier next time too. Not much, it goes a long way.

 

^^^This. I had a hell of a time last year when I did my clutch. Buddy helping me had the same idea with a come-along. Before I tried the come-along idea, I called a friend who is a pro mechanic. He told me not to do that under any circumstance. I took his advise and did not use the come-along.

I ended up getting it quickly by spraying penetrating oil where the block meets the bell housing. Then sticking a screw driver between the block and the bell housing. You can get good access on the sides through the fender well, just move the rubber splash guards out of the way. The dowel pins are right about there too. Just work each side a little at a time. It will let loose.

 

FINALLY, I got it off. I used a ratchet strap around the driveshaft support to keep pull tension on it, and rocked, shook, raised/lowered. But - I took the advice here not to use a come-a-long. The ratchet strap was enough to keep steady pulling pressure on it, but not damage anything. FINALLY, a small gap appeared. I got a screwdriver in, then a pry bar. Kept moving it shaking, etc. The other side 'broke' a little and I got a pry bar in there. Once that happened it backed out easily, I pulled it back with one hand. Couldn't have done this safely without a tranny jack, and having the truck on ramps, blocked rear wheels, and E-brake. Jack stands would have wobbled over, I shook the whole truck getting that thing off. The rest of the job is pretty easy, just time-consuming. It's just a cast-iron B**CH to pull the transmission off the block. - Fair warning for others wanting to do this. I had read that getting at the bolts was the hardest part - those were simple compared to separating the transmission. The actual replacement of parts was easy too.

Positioning dowels - There are two, one at about 1 o'clock, and one at about 10 o'clock. I could see some corrosion around them, but nothing major. Still, it was enough to super-glue the housing to the block. I put a very light coat of grease on the entire mating surface and a pea-sized bit of grease on the two dowels when I put it back together. This I believe is what was holding it together. Next time I would DEFINITELY soak it with penetrating oil for a day or so prior. Looking for the smallest opportunity of a small gap to appear and get a small screwdriver in there and then pry bars are also key. I think that even if you have something small in there when you go to rock it again, that will cause some pretty serious wedging force to help out.

Everything is back together and the clutch feels nice and tight - like new. Unfortunately, now I'm having trouble replacing the forward / transfer case drive shaft. It doesn't seem to move and I can't pry it back in place. Wonder if it's seized?

 

Check the U-joints closely while it's off but yes, the driveshaft up front can be a real bear also.

It's a tight fit.

 

Is it supposed to slide like the rear one? It looks like it does. I wonder if it's seized? Wonder why I didn't notice anything, it still went into 4WD, and drove normally...

 

There's no slide. Just two U joints and a flange, it's tight.
You can move the front diff. (I think, it's been a while) to where the u joint cups are 9 o clock and 3 o clock so the rear swings up with minimum added length.

 

Ok, at least it isn't broken... Would you swing the rear up? I was trying to do the front...

 

uhm.......whichever end has the flange has to swing up.

Like I said. It's been a while.


EDIT: Pretty sure it took the U-joint end being sideways for it to have room though.

 

Ok, I'll give those clues a shot. Thanks!

 

You did take the flange loose with the driveshaft right?
Not broke both U-joints loose and left the flange mounted?
I'm thinking that would make it more difficult than it already is.

It's stopped raining now. I can go look at mine.

 

I used a come-a-long. lol Sumbitch wouldn't budge off the pins. Didn't break anything so that's good right?

 

Yes, I did, I got it back on. I figured some stuff out. The first is you have to swing it horizontally (because of the support beam) into place on the differential side. The transmission side has fixed studs. This time I put the transmission side on first and torqued it to values. That might have helped pull it back a tiny bit.
Then as I swung it in, I was using a pry bar, trying to move the differential, etc. Turns out all I needed was a flat-head screwdriver. Just working little by little around the perimeter of the inner cap I got it to pop on. If I did it ten times, I'd say it was easy, but never having done it, took some time to figure it out and get a feel for it.

 

Whatever it takes!