Help, changed oil filter housing(aluminum) and now leaking

Here's mine for $27. and its shiny.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VX0CYB4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I switch to aluminum. Got tired of the of the original getting hung up in my filter wrench.

Make sure you use a torque wrench to tighten and make sure the oring is in the correct groove. These are not optional steps

 

Interesting that he was using chrome plated sockets, we always had to use black oxide.

 

Should have more by months end.

 

I have a 2016 tacoma and a 2016 rav 4... I have changed the oil filter caps on bolth to the aluminum after market. I have done all my own oil changes. havent had a problem till this year, last few oil changes i am having to tighten the cap harder then i should on bolth vehicals to stop hair pin leak. I did notice that the o ring that comes with the filters is just a tiny bit skinnyer then the one that came with the aluminum cap. I have looked at many different filter kits to see if one has a thicker o ring but the ones i was able to see are all the same. So after reading this thread im going to put the factory cap back on bolth. Sould not be hit and miss ever time i do a oil change. If its going to drip..... frustrating.

 

Serious question.
I own a 2nd Gen.

But can you not just turn the housing by hand like the old spin on filters?

Typically O-rings don’t need a lot torque to seal.

 

No, it’s a canister style.

 

I am going to try the aluminum one because on a VW I had, I had problems with the composite ones cracking. There is no reason why we should even have these on our vehicles, its bullshit really, but going to have to deal with it.

 

Jeez, I mean it sounds simple.

But never would I have imagined you would need a torque wrench to change the oil.

Uh, maybe a 3/8 wrench and snug?

 

I also made the switch to an aluminum housing, out of necessity. Good to know that a large majority have no issues with the OEM plastic ones. To all of you; keep on using the plastic one so long as it works. All I recommend is examining it closely each oil change for cracks/breaks so you don't end up will oil everywhere. I've always done my own oil changes for the life of the truck, and only ever hand tightened the filter housing. We all know that things expand/contract with heat cycles though, and these filter housings are famous for being extremely tight when it comes time to remove them. Apparently in removing mine (using the correct filter housing tool/hand tools/no impact), one of the tabs broke off, leaving a small hole in the housing. During my normal post oil change leak inspection, I cranked the truck, and oil began to spew everywhere out of that hole. Needless to say, I snagged an aluminum housing to replace it.

 

I don’t use one. I run it up snug. U can feel when it “bottoms”, then I just back it off a crack.

 

I’d also like to also say thanks to the OP for letting us know what the solution was. As stated many do not. I haven’t had any issues with the plastic one yet. I do prefer the spin on canister style and was pleasantly surprised to discover that Toyota returned to that style on my wife’s new Rav4. I’m wondering if Toyota is going away from the cartridge style oil filters. It will be interesting to see where it’s located and what style oil filter will on the upcoming 4th Generation. I have to say I really do miss my 2nd generation, when it came to changing oil.

 

This is all you have to do. People saying they are getting a quarter to 1/2 a turn more after contact I just don't understand how that can be, although I don't back it off any but still should be fine. It's an oring seal.

 

Smear a little oil in the filter wrench before using it. Helps the housing not get jammed in the wrench.

 

A lil crack back the other way and she comes right out. I’d be worried the oil would help it slide further passed the corners and lock up even tighter haha. But tbf, I haven’t tried it.

 

You don't need a torque wrench. Regular 8" ratchet works just fine. Unlike a canister filter, the O-ring isn't being pressed against just a flat face. Once the cap flange meets the housing flange, that's it. The cap can't tighten any further.

 

Also, tap the bottom of the wrench gently on the ground and the housing will wiggle out of the wrench for me.

 

Good thread read.

I have the OEM one I bought off Amazon. I'll be sure to put the o-ring in the correct groove area. Hand-tighten (+1/4 turn) is all the cap needs.

Keeping the original cap as a back-up.

 

The canisters have been around going on 10 plus years now and if you treat it like a spin on filter you’ll have problems, the main problem seems to be over tightening. We bought a new Toyota in 2014 and the canister was so tight from the factory I ruined the housing trying to get it off. The dealer provided 3 free oil changes and they did the same thing, over tightened.

Since 2015 I’ve done all the oil changes at 5k mile intervals using the composite canister housing and never had a leak. I buy the filters in bulk from Toyota dealer in Florida via Amazon and if you look you see information right on the box concerning installation. Also notice I’ve got 2 wrenches the one on the left is Snap On / Blue Point and the right is a shitty 5 dollar pot metal wannabe. The one on the left was purchased used from eBay and it fits much better. Proper tooling really does makes jobs go easier. The cheapie was in use when I broke housing doing that first change.




run it all the way down and just a little snug that’s it don’t over tighten. I’ve got 115k miles on it now and no leaks.

 

I don't think its a plastic filter housing issue. The newer composite motivx wrench is suppose to work better, its proven not to crack the plastic filter housing. The old one had these finger slots to grab the oil housings ears, that was the problem. Motivx told me they had too many complaints of leaks after from cracked ears their older finger slot wrench's were causing.