Help. Cranks but doesn't fire

Looking for some advice to further my diagnosis. I'm a do-it-yourselfer and usually pretty good. But this one has me stumped. I have read several posts similar to my issue. But no one ever seems to give what the answer was to their situation.
Here is my situation.
I'm the 3rd owner of a 95.5 Tacoma single cab 4x4 2.7l 4cl. manual tran.
150,000+ ml on it.
This has been a daily driver for me for a few years. And very reliable till this past spring. It will turn over no problem but will not fire up.
Things I've check and changed so far since.
1.Disconnect the fuel return line from rail, turn key. Fuel sprays out. So fuel pump is working.
2. Pulled the plug closest to the radiator. Held to block. Turn key. Got visable spark on a sunny day.
3. No visible obstruction in air intake.
4. Replaced distributor cap and rotor.
Just for the sake of it. Old ones did have corrosion on them.
5. Tested the first 2 cylinders, closest to the radiator, for compression since those are the easiest to get to. 1st was 130+ psi and the 2nd was 150 psi. Figured two were fine, not much point in tearing things apart to check the other two.
6. Replaced the crankshaft position sensor.

To this day it still will not fire up. Not even a pop. Just cranks over and over.
Also, it never threw a code or check engine light.
If anyone could point me in a direction that will help me solve this it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Check for injector pulse with a test light, one wire on each injector should have power the other should be a pulsed ground with the engine cranking.
You can spray a little carb cleaner in the intake and see if it tries to run on that, that would verify timing and spark is good enough that it should run.

 

Sorry. Forgot to mention that I had sprayed carb cleaner in intake. No fire.

 

That tells me either timing is off, there's no spark, or the plugs are wet with gas or coolant.

 

Also. I somewhat ruled out timing. Because it's supposed to be a chain. And if it were stretched I should have heard slapping before this problem started. But I could be wrong.

 

Does the maf have anything to do with starting? A sudden no start reeks of electrical

 

@Empty_Lord

 

Distributor could still be off or plug wires not in the correct locations.

 

If the MAF was bad it would still be a start/stall as it is ignored during cranking.

 

Wires are in correct locations. And as I stated in original post. I did check for spark on the first plug. So even if the others were bad. I should have at least gotten a pop.

 

take 2 spark plugs out and try to start it... if it starts your exhaust is plugged. Could be a fluke, could be your neighbor F'ing with you with a potato shoved up the exhaust.

there is this https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...tal-tools-evertough-noid-light-set/ren1/67064, test light is good too.

and this spark plugs are cheap. I have been fooled by a plug that works outside the cylinder before. The above tool will let you see if there is spark getting to the plug or is being bled off in the cap/rotor etc. Electricity will take the least resistance path to ground.

 

Exhaust looks clear without putting a scope up it. Will further test plugs for spark tomorrow. I'm at work now. Thanks for the input.

 

hmm, 7:30 PM PST and you are at work... does your boss know you have a sick Tacoma at home?

 

I know you said its firing, but, in case you want to confirm the coil (in distributor on 95 2.7L), here are the resistance values.

 

130 PSI for a cylinder is borderline a bad cylinder... i would check the other 2. (granted cold will indeed be lower than warm.) youve got spark and fuel pressure. all thats really left is to hook up a noid light to an injector to see if theyre pulsing.

 

The ECM is not allowing the engine to run. Maybe a possible sensor not connected. To help you narrow it down a bit and its good maintenance anyway.
1. Find the ground wire at the battery and remove it, clean and reinstall.
2. Body to engine ground, rinse and repeat on each end of the wire (terminal).
3. Fully charge the battery.
4. If you haven't retrieved codes yet, do so.
5. Leave the battery disconnected for a bit and reconnect.
6. Verify that the oil pressure sensor is properly connected.
7. Same with engine coolant temp sensor.
8. Same with the Air Intake Temp (IAT) sensor, I think that it is located at the mass airflow sensor.
It would be kind of difficult for the timing chain to jump time so leave that one out of the equation.
Check the spark plugs for cleanliness, gap ect, wires for serviceability at all four wires and coils for proper resistance and grounding.

 

UPDATE:
The Taco is running again.
Picked up a set of noid lights. Injectors are getting signal.
Then checked the ignition coil to the specs.
Wsidr1 gave. And I could not get a consistent reading. As if it had a inconsistent short. So I ordered a new coil. Put it in today and she fired right up.

Thank you everyone for your advice.
Another 95.5 Taco is back on the road.

 

Sweet!

 

Awesome.

Thanks for giving an update for future folks.