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Help - How to install power door locks?

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by Sombra, May 13, 2011.

  1. May 13, 2011 at 4:08 PM
    #1
    Sombra

    Sombra [OP] Active Member

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    Ok, so, I have the base model access cab without electric door locks. Ultimately, I want to get keyless entry installed. Every car audio place I've talked to can't install the power door locks necessary for keyless entry. I know it's possible because I've seen people do it. Has anyone ever installed power door locks to their car? who or how did you do it? Thanks for any advice.
     
  2. May 13, 2011 at 8:13 PM
    #2
    BigMac

    BigMac Active Member

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    Alarm, power door locks, , Cruse control, intermitten wiper upgrade, trailer hitch, XM radio. Chrome rear bumper, Ultra Guage. Alpine Stereo
    I think you need to find another place. I have an 07 reg cab and they put one in with no problems. Both locks and alarm with remote entry for $300.00.

    Dave
     
  3. May 13, 2011 at 8:29 PM
    #3
    Sombra

    Sombra [OP] Active Member

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    what kind of place did you go to???
     
  4. May 14, 2011 at 7:47 PM
    #4
    BigMac

    BigMac Active Member

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    It was a local Auto stereo shop. Find one that does alarms. Not a big box type like Best Buy.

    Dave
     
  5. Jan 10, 2012 at 8:35 PM
    #5
    Rye

    Rye .

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    It might seem a bit daunting, but A1 Electric's stuff comes with good instructions and there are additional installation articles on their site. The one for the Tundra is pretty close. If it helps, I'll walk through it for the next guy:

    1. Remove your door panels, sill plate, and kick panel. This stuff is designed to come on and off so look it up and do it.
    2. Now that you are here, take a good look at the factory speakers and think about upgrading, then peel back the vapor barrier and size up the lock cable.
    [​IMG]
    3. The top one is the lock cable. I zip tied the other one out of the way temporarily and fabricated a bracket out of a piece of aluminum from Home Depot so I could line up the solenoid like the A1 instructions say. This pic shows the aluminum cut and bent to fit, with the cable bracket capturing the lock cable. I used a small c-clamp to hold it in place to test fit first and make sure the door panel would fit over it. If you are doing it as shown, you can skip that.
    [​IMG]
    4. Strip away the outer covering on the cable and you find a metal wrap. You are not down to the moving part yet, so the wire needs to go. Stick a little pocket knife or someting under one wire and snip, repeat until they are all cut, then trim them off. Then you have one more layer of plastic to go and you expose the actual moving part, which turns out to be a flexible metal rod and not a cable after all. [​IMG]
    5. Now the scary part is over and you just clamp the solenoid to the cable like the A1 instructions show.
    6. Fishing the wires through from behind the kick panel was pretty easy. The rubber fitting between the door and the body pops off and back on pretty easily. I took the speakers out to get to the cable because I figured it was easier than peeling off the whole vapor barrier.
    7. Now it's just a matter of matching the wire colors. Look at the connector that is already installed on the black wire to the relay and see how the connectors go. (I put one on backwards before I thought of this).
    8. I grounded it to the bolt that holds the metal clip that holds the kick panel.
    9. There is a fuse behind the coin holder that goes to the power locks. I used this for power by plugging in an add-a-fuse from Autozone.
    10. Check everything: Make sure the windows roll up and down without hitting the new wiring or anything like that.

    If you did everyting right, it should look like this-
    [​IMG]
     
  6. Apr 6, 2016 at 4:09 PM
    #6
    siskat51

    siskat51 Member

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    Do you happen to still have that last pic. I can't see it. I'm hoping to add power locks to my 2014 regular cab.
     
  7. Apr 6, 2016 at 6:52 PM
    #7
    Rye

    Rye .

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    No, I guess I don't. I don't know how it evaporated.
    Imagine a rod with on end in the white ring on the right end of the solenoid (second pic), and the other end clamped to the place where the pocket knife has cleared.

    5+ years now and still no problems. A worthwhile upgrade.
     
  8. Apr 6, 2016 at 7:03 PM
    #8
    Do58

    Do58 Well-Known Member

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    cable driven door locks can be a little tricky if you don't know what you are doing or don't have good instructions. Doesn't matter if it's a big box or mom & pop shop. It's all on the technique and the installer, NOTHING ELSE. Sure, you can make something and guess or do trial and error, or dei makes a kit for cable locks. Done and done... So easy
     
  9. Apr 7, 2016 at 5:36 AM
    #9
    siskat51

    siskat51 Member

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    Well I found a work around for the cable driven issue. I love this set up.

    http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/6.../352019-adding-power-door-lock-actuators.html

    I've checked so many threads and none give great detail on how to run the power. Do I go under the dash or under the hood? Do I need a relay? I see a place on the fuse box under my dash for power locks. I realize me asking these questions probably means I shouldn't attempt this but I have installed my back up camera and fog lights with no issues. As long as I have good detailed instructions to follow I've been successful. Frustrating part this is everyone stops at the actuator hook up. Every thread says thats the difficult part however I disagree, running power to me is more difficult. Any help would be greatly appreciated.20160407_082451.jpg
     
  10. Apr 12, 2016 at 2:50 PM
    #10
    siskat51

    siskat51 Member

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    so I did find constant power under the dash. The port labeled "DR LCK" has it. Thing is the fuse is a 20amp and my kit comes with a 10amp fuse. Can I swap the fuse on the harness to 20 or with that blow up my truck? Any help would be appreciated. 20160412_173126.jpg 20160412_173657.jpg
     
  11. Apr 12, 2016 at 5:47 PM
    #11
    Do58

    Do58 Well-Known Member

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    You shouldnt upgrade a fuse in something other than what it comes with. There is a reason for its rating. You need the fuse to blow if it needs to. If you were to upgrade it you could do a lot of damage of you equipment and wiring going to the fuse. You also wouldn't want you equipment to draw more current than what your circuit is rated for. Ie the equip will not draw more than 10 amps if nothing else is on your circuit of 20 amps
     
  12. Apr 12, 2016 at 7:47 PM
    #12
    siskat51

    siskat51 Member

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    Ok so don't upgrade the fuse! Thanks! So I can attach it to the 20amp "DR LK" location. If I'm understanding you right. It will only draw 10amps because that's what it's rated for. I don't believe the 20amp slot is being used as I have manual locks. Can I use an "add a circuit". Clipping the harness fuse off. Then solder the power wire to the "add a fuse" and using both the 10 and 20 amp fuses?
     
  13. Apr 12, 2016 at 8:40 PM
    #13
    Do58

    Do58 Well-Known Member

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    Correct as long as nothing is on that circuit since you have manual locks. Yes to add a circuit. Your equip will not draw more than 10 amps and that circuit is rated to handle 20.
     
  14. Apr 13, 2016 at 8:11 AM
    #14
    siskat51

    siskat51 Member

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    Awesome thats all I needed to know! Thanks so much for your help!!!!
     
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