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help! how to remove the castle nut from the outer tie rod end

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by scoutpilot, Apr 10, 2016.

  1. Apr 10, 2016 at 4:20 PM
    #1
    scoutpilot

    scoutpilot [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Dallas
    TN
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    2010 4WD DCLB
    OME 886x with OME shocks, Dakar springs, LR UCAs, ARB bumper with Warn VR8000. Midland 75-822 cb with 3' firestik. Cooper AT3 265/75/16 on stock steelies, rear diff breather mod.
    Hi all,
    I'm in-process of installing an OME lift on a 2009 regular cab 4x4 Tacoma. I am trying to separate the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle. I loosened the castle nut about 1/4 inch as the manual said to, then used a ball joint separator to pull the two apart. Now, I'm faced with a nut that won't come off because the bolt spins along with it when I try to loosen it. There's a fair amount of rust and corrosion (thank you salty Ohio roads) but the nut loosened just fine until I separated the joint. It seems like there is no place to hold onto the bolt to keep it from spinning. The picture below is where I'm at now. Is there a trick to this? Is there any reason not to take the nut completely off before separating the joint (I haven't done the other wheel yet).

    Thanks!

    20160410_185615_2114aa17485a4181b95fd757d7ed5f4524a192cd.jpg
     
  2. Apr 10, 2016 at 4:22 PM
    #2
    scoutpilot

    scoutpilot [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Member:
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    Messages:
    70
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dallas
    TN
    Vehicle:
    2010 4WD DCLB
    OME 886x with OME shocks, Dakar springs, LR UCAs, ARB bumper with Warn VR8000. Midland 75-822 cb with 3' firestik. Cooper AT3 265/75/16 on stock steelies, rear diff breather mod.
    Just to clarify...this question is not for the vehicle in my profile. Just to reduce confusion. :)
     
  3. Apr 10, 2016 at 4:26 PM
    #3
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    San Diego, CA
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    Yes
    You can remove the nut before separating the joint. Just tap the BJ back in with a hammer and it should grip enough to remove the nut.
     
  4. Apr 10, 2016 at 4:27 PM
    #4
    Nirvana

    Nirvana Tesla Auto

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    Kris
    Morgan Hill, U.S.A
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    Icon ext. travel 2.5RR in front, Icon ext. travel 2.0RR in rear, BuiltRight uniball UCAs, Wheelers Superbumps, Goodridge steel braided brake lines, BruteForce front plate bumper w/ Warn M9000+synth line, American Auto Horns ACDF, Pelfrey Bussman mount+Sandman bussman fuse block (soon), 255/75R16s on painted stockers...because I'm not paying $800 to rock rash new wheels you scrubs. Shok Industries 2/0 big 4 upgrade and sound deadener.
    If there isn't a spot for an allen on the top of the stud, which they seemed to have stopped doing, you can always snap a pair of vice grips onto the bottom of the stud while taking off the nut. I've also had luck using a clamp to press the stud into the knuckle temporarily to remove the nut. Honestly unless you plan on replacing the piece, don't use a pickle fork. It's easy enough to smack the side of the knuckle and free the balljoint/tie rod whatever and you can usually zip the nut of to start without having to deal with this issue.
     
  5. Apr 10, 2016 at 5:55 PM
    #5
    scoutpilot

    scoutpilot [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2014
    Member:
    #139708
    Messages:
    70
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dallas
    TN
    Vehicle:
    2010 4WD DCLB
    OME 886x with OME shocks, Dakar springs, LR UCAs, ARB bumper with Warn VR8000. Midland 75-822 cb with 3' firestik. Cooper AT3 265/75/16 on stock steelies, rear diff breather mod.
    Success! I hammered the bj back together and the nut came right off. Many thanks for the tips!
     

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