HELP! I’m stuck in 4wd!

I’ve read many forums about 4wd being stuck. I’ve used the forums to try and fix. The fuse was good. Removed front actuator, soldered the posts to the motor and bench tested and motor worked. 2nd I removed and cleaned the tcase actuator. Assembled everything back as it should and still NOTHING. Almost seems like the actuators aren’t receiving a signal.
When I turn the key on there is the typical “clicking” coming from behind the glove box but actuators are not working.
Before I drive the truck off a cliff, I’m open to suggestions. Could it be a bad knob switch? Is there a way to manually disengage 4wd?

 

You might try these.
I think at one time some one posted pics of the position of the sleeve in the A.D.D. that showed the different positions. I just can’t find the post?

Post #6 here
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2005-stuck-in-four-low.299498/

Post #10 here
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4x4-issues-front-diff-actuator-or-t-case-actuator.358059/

 

4 Lo or 4 Hi and do you have a manual or automatic transmission?

 

And Welcome to TW!!

 

I’m stuck in 4hi. 6sp manual.

 

Which fuse did you check?

Was it this one: the IG1 fuse under the dash(#32) blew. It is for the Back-up lights, air conditioning system, passenger airbag manual on-off switch, and SHIFT LOCK SYSTEM.

 

It was under the dash fuse #14 20a (I think that was either #13 or #14) as listed in the owners manual for the 4wd.

 

It might be worth looking at #32

 

I will try that. Thanks.

 

remove the transfer case actuator and turn the shaft by hand until you get the electrical figured out .

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/transfer-case-transfer-cases-in-first-and-2nd-gen-trucks.345652/

 

I have a regular cab w/ 4x4 and a MT. This past weekend i thought i was stuck in 4lo, but came to find out that even though my clutch pedal was moving enough to change gears, it wasnt bottoming out against the floor. I moved the floor mat back, and voila i was able to move back to 2wd. Might not have anything to do with your issue but figured id just pass along that info.

 

With the clutch ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR, shift back to 2 Lo. Once you're successfully in 2 Lo, stop, put the clutch ALL THE WAY ON THE FLOOR, and try shifting back to 4 Hi, then 2 Hi. It's a spitball, but worth a try.

 

Don’t drive over 50? Lol

 

Tried pushing the clutch to the floor and didn’t work. I disconnected the battery to reset the computer didn’t work, also checked all fuses. Pulled the switch out of the dash all connections were fine. So far I’ve done every suggestion offered in the thread and still nothing. Is there anything I might be missing to check before I spend a ridiculous amount of money at the dealership?

 

Did you remove the transfer case electronic actuator and turn the steel shaft by hand back into the 2 wheel drive position ?
This is the way you manually disengage the transfer case from the 4x4 position .
You would then have to remove the actuator on the front axle and manually shift it back into the 2 wheel drive position .
This bypasses all electronics and you will be in 2wheel drive when you are finished

Do you have all 4 wheels off the ground when testing ?

 

alot of the customtacos links are dead ends

 

I have not had all 4wheels off the ground. I want to manually shift back in 2wd as a last resort.

 

Do you have a test light ?
Have you tried probing the actuator wires on the front diff to see is you have voltage on the wiring with the key in the " ON " position ?

 

you might try the same process you went through with the front actuator, but do that to the transfer case actuator. Both actuators and all their sensors need to be functioning properly to engage/ disengage. From memory, your switch sends signal to the front actuator, then gets signal back to Ecu confirning front diff signal, then it sends signal to transfer case actuator, then back to ecu which fully engages everything.

so, could be a few things: switch, ecu, limit switches on front or transfer case (unscrew them from actuator and push metal ball a few times- also spray electrical cleaner on contacts for switches/ wiring harness plugs).


I may have the technical order of operations mixed up, but in short, both actuators, their associated switches in the body of the actuators, your ecu, and the dash switch all have to be doing their things correctly to engage disengage.

my other thought is position- rod that slides in transfer case for hi/lo can stick if actuator teeth are not aligned just right. If front actuator is engaged already you can remove and manually slide coupling over to unengaged. If you just want to get out of 4wd, remove transfer actuator and slide rod in case all the way in (gently)- from there, one pull outward is 4hi , two pulls/ clunks out from bottom position is 4lo.

I only know all this because I have had all my actuators apart so many times I could probably draw their insides from memory. Patience and persistence! Sounds like you are close

 

I see the Custom taco stuff is dead . It was good while it lasted .....Almost 7 years . Someone will have to post up the repair manual again