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HELP! I CAN'T STOP BLEEDING!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by billyjoe, Aug 31, 2010.

  1. Aug 31, 2010 at 9:08 PM
    #1
    billyjoe

    billyjoe [OP] Taco Fever - I've got it bad!

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    Swapped my rear axle (for an elocker) 4 days ago and since then I've been trying (unsuccessfully) to bleed the brake lines. Just keep getting bubbles coming out of the Rear Passeger-Side bleeder valve (longest line).

    1st, brake-pedal w/helper.
    2nd, gravity bleeding (all four bleeders open).
    3rd, Motive Power Bleeder.

    Despite the Power Bleeder being pretty cool, I continue to get a never-ending stream of bubbles. I've ran ten 32oz bottles of brake fluid through the lines so far ($50) and still have bubbles and a pedal that goes to the floor.

    System holds pressure and I checked all connections for leaks - none found.

    WHAT AM I DOING WRONG? :confused:
     
  2. Sep 1, 2010 at 4:16 PM
    #2
    Fortech

    Fortech Well-Known Member

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    Just a thought, but if you run the master cylinder too low on fluid, you have to start all over again.

    May not be relevant but a little known fact most people don't know their first time.

    Are you closing the bleeder before letting the brake pedal off the floor?

    The thing is, we can't tell you what you are doing wrong if you don't tell us what you are doing? I also don't understand when you said the system will hold pressure, but the pedal still goes right to the floor? Correct me if I'm wrong, but if the pedal goes to the floor, it isn't pressurizing the system.
     
  3. Sep 1, 2010 at 6:34 PM
    #3
    billyjoe

    billyjoe [OP] Taco Fever - I've got it bad!

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    First, thanks for the reply fortech.

    I primed the Master Cyl (per service manual procedure) before beginning.

    1st method (Pedal w/Helper) was way to tedious & slow to be effective.
    2nd method (Gravity) was even slower than 1st & ran the risk of letting reservoir get too low unless closely supervised.

    3rd method (Power Bleeder) worked great - it's just that I continue to see bubbles after putting 2.5 gallons of fluid through the lines.

    3rd method is: simply fill the Power Bleeder canister with fluid, connect to top of reservoir and pressurize (with hand pump) to 12psi. Then open one bleeder at a time (starting with longest line) until no more bubbles are seen. Then move to next wheel.

    Thing is, as mentioned previously, the bubbles never cease. Considering a 32oz. bottle of Prestone Synthetic DOT 3 goes for $5 at WallyWorld, and that I've run 10 bottles (i.e.-2.5 gal) through the lines so far means I've spent $50 so far with no hint of improvement.

    When I say the lines hold steady while pressurized, I mean when I pump the Power Bleeder to 12psi that pressure holds steady until I open a bleeder valve. Also, when I press the pedal, it goes down quite a ways, but holds short of touching the 1"x4" board I have behind the pedal to prevent excessive travel.

    After doing this, I checked all couplings for signs of fresh brake fluid - none found leaking.

    Leaving me wondering WHAT GIVES? :confused:
     
  4. Sep 1, 2010 at 9:33 PM
    #4
    white tacoma

    white tacoma Member

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    get rid of the board and push all the air out
     
  5. Sep 1, 2010 at 9:40 PM
    #5
    HondaGM

    HondaGM Roll Tide

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    could have air in the abs modulator
     
  6. Sep 1, 2010 at 9:57 PM
    #6
    blackhawke88

    blackhawke88 wo ai ni bao bei ^_^

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    maybe you have a leak?
     
  7. Sep 1, 2010 at 10:03 PM
    #7
    NelsonTacoma

    NelsonTacoma This is my derpawayinator!!!!!

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    This is a very good point. If you can drive the truck (even with the mushy pedal), try doing some "abs stops" on a dirt lot or gravel road and get the abs pump/motor to activate. I have found personally that when doing any major brake fluid type work like master cylinders, calipers or wheel cylinders that until you do a few "abs stops" the brake pedal will not feel right.
     
  8. Sep 1, 2010 at 10:09 PM
    #8
    06redtacoma

    06redtacoma Well-Known Member

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    your going to think im crazy but stop trying to bleed them. take the cover off the master start the truck take a small wrench or any metal object and start on the back of the line closest to the wheel and start tapping the line work your way back to the front have a friend watch the master, bubbles will start coming through the lines back into the master. this has worked in the past for me, we had several days and just kept topping off the master. never actually had to "bleed" them. also you can very very slowly work the break petal. this being said i have never done this on our truck only on my older truck a Z71 after a lift and axle swap. good luck with it.
     
  9. Sep 2, 2010 at 6:22 PM
    #9
    yosh2000

    yosh2000 Well-Known Member

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    i had the same problem...i found that when i barely opened the bleeders, no more air would some out...im wondering and have read here that if you open up the bleeders too much you will suck in air, which will then immediately exit in the form of a bubble....dont know if thats fact, but ...

    my brakes work fine now..but when i redo my rearend, i plan on doing some ABS stops when i bleed them next time...
     
  10. Sep 2, 2010 at 6:36 PM
    #10
    mjp2

    mjp2 Living vicariously though myself Staff Member

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    It is by far the best way to bleed the brakes. Start at the one farthest from the MC, bleed the air out, and move to the next farthest. Repeat until all 4 are done.

    Make sure you have a good fitting on the bleeder valve otherwise you'll introduce bubbles into the line you're watching that will look like brake system bubbles.

    With someone in the driver's seat, you at the wheel, and a clear hose securely attached to the bleeder so you can was for bubbles:
    1. Say "Down" and have the helper start stepping on the brake pedal. Should take a count of 5 to reach the floor.
    2. Open the bleeder valve just as they start stepping on the pedal.
    3. Have them say "Down" just before it hits the floor, and close the valve as soon as they say that.
    4. Say "Up" and have their let the pedal return to full height. Make sure they confirm that it's fully up before you start back at step 1.

    That's it. Keep an eye on the MC fluid level and add as needed to keep it from getting low.

    In 15-20 minutes you'll have all 4 bled and will have no air in the lines.
     
  11. Sep 22, 2010 at 9:51 PM
    #11
    billyjoe

    billyjoe [OP] Taco Fever - I've got it bad!

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    Finally solved my brake problems!
    Two things were going on:

    1st, air was coming in through the threads on the rear bleeder valves. I eliminated this by applying a small amount of grease around the threads. Oddly, the front bleeder valves did not exhibit this issue.

    2nd, the brake pedal would still go to the floor - slowly. I resolved this issue by replacing the Brake Master Cylinder.

    I now finally have rock-hard solid brakes! :D

    Thanks for all of your input! :)
     
  12. Sep 23, 2010 at 12:22 AM
    #12
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Glad you figured it out. How did you did you figure it out exactly ? Trial and error or something more scientific ? Thanks. Curious George
     
  13. Sep 23, 2010 at 10:25 PM
    #13
    billyjoe

    billyjoe [OP] Taco Fever - I've got it bad!

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    Simple - did more research on various forums. Found both issues described to a "T" and noted their solutions. :)
     
  14. Sep 23, 2010 at 10:47 PM
    #14
    907taco

    907taco Alaskan Assassin

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    so the fluid your adding is coming out the bleeder valves, thats alot of fluid, Sheeeiittt, even a small 12oz bottle is almost too much....... something doesn't sound right......I would like to know where your 2.5 gal. went to.
     
  15. Sep 24, 2010 at 1:34 AM
    #15
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. Could you post links to " both issues described to a "T" and noted their solutions " that you found ? It might be helpful to others and would surely be interesting. Curious George
     
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