Help, I think I need to replace U-Joints?

Hello friends,

Haven't posted since I first bought my truck cuz this thing is damn near bullet proof, but....

I've been getting a significant vibration/humming sound under acceleration at highway speeds (starts at 60mph), and after some research on these forums, it seems that it probably is one of the u-joints going bad.

background: 2011 4.0 4x4 double cab regular bed. I installed Bilstein 5100 1.75" lift in the front, 5100 in the rear with AAL (I think it added 1.5" lift) a month after I bought it 2.5 years ago with 127k miles, currently at 165k miles. Truck has been amazing - only have had to do oil changes and brakes.

A couple weeks ago I started getting the highway vibration so I greased the zerks and it seemed to help a little, but vibration has come back. I tried to grease them again today, but the zerks wouldn't take the grease (I cleaned and pressed the ball head and still nothing) - maybe my auto-zone grease gun just sucks.

Figured the u-joints is a good starting point. My CV-axel boots are also torn (but read that is fine for sometime). Also, have a squeaking ball joint that is pretty beat on one LCA.

So, just had a few questions:

1. Should I replace u-joints are all 5 zerk locations? I was thinking of going non-grease spicer.

2. Should I replace carrier bearing while I am at it? And maybe get a carrier bearing drop too?

3. While I am at it, should I also pony up and replace both CV axels and lower ball joints (or get new LCA - even though mine look fine)?
-I am in need of new tires not far down the road, so kind of want to get those before another alignment (which I assume is needed after a CV axel or ball joint replacement?)...

4. I read a little about replacing the ECGS bearing and axel seals if replacing cv axel (I would probably try out the O'Reilly's extended travel axel). Assuming I should replace those if doing the CV axels?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am no mechanic and most of my knowledge is from searching around on here. I might be going over thinking all of this and should just start with the u-joints, but I figure while the truck is apart it is best to replace as much as needed.
I use the truck daily for my furniture biz, so it is sort of my livelihood.

Thank you all!

(going to stop at a shop tmro to see if they can grease my zerks with a pneumatic grease gun, so I don't have to worry about the joints seizing up on the highway)

 

1. 165K, yes replace the U Joints, even if they do take grease.
2. If you plan on keeping the truck, yes replace the carrier bearing
3. again, if you plan on keeping the truck you are in need of new boots OR new axles depending on how long theyve been slinging grease everywhere. you do not need longer CVs. Use OEM and you'll be just fine.
3a. If your ball joints are bad, you will have a hell of a time getting them out, not saying you cant..but if youre doing the work yourself...good luck! Easier to change the LCAs, and use OEM ones.
4. ECGS bearing is a good thing, cause eventually yours will go bad, again, if youre keeping the truck, and youll have everything disassembled anyway, then yes, do the ECGS!

You could do all of this in a weekend if you had help, no problem. or break it up into segements, driveline first, the front end...

 

Amazing. Just what I needed to hear. Thank you for the quick reply!

 

If youre in Michigan I can help. got the tools and garage space!!

 

a little bit far, I am in Boston haha, but much appreciated. I know a backyard mechanic that knowns these trucks well, so I'll prob hire him and give him an extra hand with the work so I can also learn.

Here are some pics of the truck, lucy & the leaking cv axels to make this tread less boring

 

get some fluid film under that truck soon also...gotta love the snowy/salty roads of winter wonderlands...Sure is pretty, but wrecks the undersides of vehicles!

 

Good point, definitely will do a coating soon. New England winters are brutal, and I don't think Toyota will replace my frame a second time

 

By your mileage, my carrier bearing, and LCA BJ’s and bushings were shot, but I expected that from the off-roading I do. I had also replaced both front wheel bearings. My u-joints looked good but I replaced them with non-greaesable Spicers. I still have the original front driveshaft u-joints - they get stressed only when you are in four wheel drive mode, so they should last a long time and are unlikely to be the cause of any current imbalanced issues unless they have been damaged by road debris. The drop kit wouldn't hurt.

The BJ’s look like they need replacing. Your call on replacing just the BJ’s or the entire LCA’s, but avoid the cheap aftermarket LCA’s cause they come with cheap made-in-China bushings and BJ’s. The LCA’s appear to be of decent quality. I currently have Dorman LCA’s. The BJ’s barely lasted 1500 miles and the bushings now need replacing, after about 30K. I have refurbished my oem LCA’s and will be swapping them out sooner than later.

The ECGS bearing swap may not be a bad idea if you are going to replace the shafts, but I would do that last and only if they ate the cause of the vibrations.

 

Planning on keeping this truck forever, even as an extra vehicle for the vacation home I don't own

Waiting on the drop kit, u-joints and CB in the mail, will install next week. I had a shop grease my zerks two days ago (I guess my crappy grease gun has a poor fitting, because they took grease), much less vibration on the highway, but still noticeable - so I'm sure at least one of the U-joints is shot.

Planning on getting the OEM LCA, CV axels, ECGS bearing all swapped out next. Probably along with some new KO2 tires so I can do an alignment all together.
I don't mind paying extra for OEM for some added security.

I imagine I have sometime with my current ball joints? Turning is smooth, just squeaky. I will try to post some pics of the ball joints later today.

 

If you get OEM LCA’s, I am pretty sure they will cone with bushings and BJ’s installed. Someone else can confirm.

Edit: OEM LCA’s do come with bushings and BJ’s. Interesting to note Toyota sells the bushings individually, but not the BJ’s.

 

Installed the three u-joints, carrier bearing and emu drop kit. Truck rides smoother than ever! Thanks for all the advice.

Next up is CV axels, ecgs bearing and prob new LCA as well (along with coating the underside - still need to research this)
...going to get another set of KO2 tires (this time probably load range C instead of E since I don't need that extra strength & weight),

-so ideally have this all done at once because I'll need an alignment. But winter is around the corner and probably going to toss on my blizzaks in a few months, so might hold off on the new tires. We will see.

 

Yep...I think were going to have an early winter here also...was 44 this morning...Good job on the truck, glad it all worked out.

 

Nice work OP.

 

If the frame was replaced on your truck then the LCAs were as well at that time (new LCAs come with the frame replacement), so I can't help but question any of the posts mentioning to replace your LCAs.

 

Ahhh, that would make sense. My lca look quite clean and it is really only that one ball joint that seems (to me) to be on it's way out.
Perhaps it isn't even that bad - I'll try to get a close up pic of it. Frame was replaced 47k miles/ 3 years 10 months ago.

...so if I don't even need to do the ball joint....maybe I can hold off on the cv axels - bunch of treads seem to mention owners driving with leaking boots for a long time.

 

If you haven't already pulled the trigger on this, I would suggest comparing the cost of doing the universal joints and the carrier bearing, to replacing the entire driveshaft with a Tom Woods 1-piece unit. You completely eliminate driveline vibration issues with lifted vehicles, and reduce the number of u joints that can fail in the future as well.

 

Hello friends, 9 months and 15k miles later, truck has been rolling smooth. Never did the LCA or CV axels.

However, I did blow out the side wall on one of my KO2 tires and got a set of Mickey Thompson Baja Boss (285/70/17) about 3k miles ago.
About a week ago, I noticed an increase in road noise/humming/pulsating sound - slightly goes away when turning right on highway, so I think it is the driver side wheel bearing.

*My plan is to replace both front wheel bearing/hub assemblies (from 05Taco4x4) and both front CV axels (from CVJ red boot).
Additionally, I will install the ECGS bushing & axel seal while the CV axel is out.

There was a slight pull to the right on the highway, so an alignment was in the cards regardless.
And I don't think there is any need to replace the LCA - squeaking went away.

Slight rubbing on new tires when pulling into or out of the driveway - didn't notice any when off-roading.
I used a heat gun to pushback the inner fender (never did a CBC) - I think my front end has started to sag a bit
(ground to fender Driver front 38.125" and Passenger front 38.5", Driver rear 39.275" and Passenger rear 40")

So, I thought about replacing coils for extra lift & softer ride quality (bilstein 5100 is at 3rd notch 1.75"),
but the rubbing is minimal and ride quality isn't that bad.

Probably will just stick with the CV axels, Wheel Hub Assembly, axel seal and bushing.

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Anything worth replacing while the front end is taken apart/pre alignment?
Going to do the job with a backyard mechanic - he is cheap and lets me help him/learn during the job.

 

Nice agenda, and good post you're thinking ahead. I would recommend if you have OEM LCAs, change out your bushings with Whitelines poly bushings. With a bottle jack you can have old bushings out in about 15 minutes each side, and I think youll like the way your alignment will hold up.

 

Used 3rd notch on mine also like 7 years ago and did alignment then and have not needed one since. Had frozen adjustment bolts on 1 side so they replaced with OEM.
Look at those alignment adjusters as local dealer may not stock all the parts and that would stop your install. If you stay under 2" lift should align OK but over you need UCA not lowers anyway.

 

Check your carm bolts and anti sieze them up. Other than that just check your sway bar bushings for wear.