Help in choosing UCA

hi all need help in choosing u.c.a. , im stuck between the light racing spc u.c.a. or the camburg ball joint u.c.a. , I do not want a unibal upper control arm due to the salt and grit that's spread on our roads in the winter . id like a more sealed unit if that makes sense . the price is in within 100 dollars between the 2 products , I have a 3 inch l.r.o. kit and 255 85 16s on stock steel wheels with 1.5 inch wheel spacers. will be installing bilstein 5100s shortly, thank you all in advance for your time and thoughts

 

Subbed for interest.

FYI>>> https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/camburg-upper-control-arms-w-free-shipping.512434/

 

Spc (lr) uca works fine for me. Offers mor adjustability than i could make use of, feels solid and relatively easy to source parts if i need bqll joints or bushings replaced. Plus they were cheapish. Win win win.

Though i know little about camburg

 

I just had the Camburg Ball Joint type UCA's for a little over a year. Never wheeled just a daily driver. I have a 3 inch lift and probably got about 2.5 Caster out of them. To me for 600.00 there are a lot better options out there. The boots ripped with daily driving, the dust caps got seized going through 1 winter and trapped moisture inside of them. Took me an hour on each side to get the caps off so I could grease the zerks. Plus after one Winter there was quite a few spots of rust on them. Just sold them for 200.00 and bought Standard High Caster JBA UCA's and love them. Can change the ball joints out in the driveway without having to take the UCA's off. That's a huge plus for me as I am not handy in these type of things. So yes you could go Light Racing or go JBA and right now with my JBA's I am at 3.7 Caster and it drives like it is on rails, oh and they are bright red. So to me don't waste 600.00 on Camburgs when there are better options out there for cheaper money as stated above.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-and-suspension-mega-thread-bs-thread.364484/

 

i have the SPC and absolutely would buy again, got it on group buy. very well made, high adjustability. i nailed my custom alignment with these. dialed in 5.2deg caster on driver's side, before that went past 7deg which is pretty damn high, but 5.2 is just right for me, and the thing drives right, as in 'perfect'. can't compare to the Camburgs tho.

 

Why not JBA?

 

2 posts up

 

You can say Im a little biased, but our ball-joint arms are a great option for the budget minded customer who's not looking for the benefits that a uniball arm gives or a billet upper arm. We have thousands of these out there but from time to time we see a "few" have an issue with the MOOG boot. It's a QC problem on their part. We have a new boot and will be including them with our arms shortly. To customers that have reached out to us with the issue we've sent replacements. The same quality control issue would apply to other arms out there using MOOG ball-joints. It's a part we don't manufacture and have control over. Ball-joints are not a precision part like a uniball is, so the quality control and tolerances aren't the same since they are just producing them to be OEM replacement parts.

I'd suggest calling the companies you're interested in, you'll probably get way more info than you need at times but you'll also learn from what each has to say.

Wheelers Offroad stocks these and sells them at a discounted price - Scott @ Camburg

 

Where were you a month or so ago when my year and a half old Camburg Ball Joint Type boots were torn with absolutely all city driving? I talked to the people at Camburg and was told that's a MOOG problem and that I should call them and see if they will do something. I was not offered any type of replacement of any kind as you mention above.

 

Not sure who you reached out to. I'm familiar with you here online and the majority of your posts, you've even gone back and forth with me so I wish you would have reached out to me here or at our shop or I would have read your post about the issue. In one of your posts where you mentioned a little bit of grease on the boot another member mentioned us having a new boot replacement.

I've reminded everyone here that we have boot replacements.

Most times when we see the boot tear, it's from customers or shops not greasing the ball-joint after it's installed. They're assuming it's per-greased ready to go which it is not. There is some grease and the instructions make it clear to grease them after install. With not enough grease in them, the boot gets pinched between the tapered studs and the outer body of the ball-joint. Not saying you didn't, just putting some useful info in this thread.

- Scott @ Camburg

 

LR BJs or Total Chaos uniballs.

 

@motoxscott

I just bought your guy's uniball UCA through our sister company (All German Motorsports), look forward to installing them!

 

Camburg BJ UCAs here. Prefer a sealed boot on a daily driver. No issues in 10K miles.

 

I bought his ucas. Can you help me out with the replacement parts?

 

sure, email me your name & address @Sub_Par

scott@camburg.com

 

would you recommend these with a full 3" lift?

 

yeah I did see that on the web site after I posted. I have 2 1/2 lift on now with LR uca. since the day I put them on it wants to go right. been to a few shops for an alignment and they also say its on the money. looking to buy a new lift and new uca and want to go full 3". I have been looking at the JBA's and its always good to hear from someone that has them and loves them. thanks

 

Wow thank you, just emailed. Talk about customer service.

 

Curious what parts do you need?

 

I have Camburg BJ UCAs and Scott sent me replacement boots, actually reached out proactively to see if I needed them.

My one and only complaint about my UCAs is something that Camburg has no control over and it is actually a complaint I have for everything aftermarket. Polyurethane bushings squeak, I hate that. Camburg has grease fittings to keep it to a minimum but it's still something that takes an afternoon to deal with every few months.

If there was one change I'd make to them it would be maybe a better way to install the dust caps. A friction fit is OK but getting the cap in and out without ruining the o-ring is impossible. Perhaps screw-in or some sort of set screw. Not sure how else it could be done. It's a minor complaint.