HELP! Installed SPC's and now front end is SUPER stiff

are any of you guys running 35's and have a recommendation on plate setting on the SPCs for avoiding rubbing? Getting a cab mount relocate soon but currently have CMC

 

I am thinking I will still lower them anyway to around 32-33 lol

 

I would, that's about what I run. If you really want to be accurate and get even tire wear, the chalk test is the way to go. I'm too lazy for that though.

 

Same lol.

 

as am i lol

 

i’m a total newbie here but ive been reading my butt off researching lifts.
I remember something about the UCA’s needing to be torqued with the weight of the truck on them or it could cause harshness. Maybe worth checking.

 

First off, I always appreciate when I see a new person say something like this. This is the best way to learn, just read read read. Torquing under weight doesn't apply to SPC though, they specify that in their instructions. That only applies to bonded rubber bushings that have a limited range of motion, i.e. OEM bushings. You want to torque them down at ride height, where they spend most of their time, so you're not wearing out the bushing prematurely.

 

Wanna play gotta pay.

 

you ain't lying

 

thats what im gonna shoot for

 

Im on 35s, lower cam bolts maxxed, and setting E with the Spcs. Have run setting D and C before, and that increased cab rub. Not exactly sure if the castor as its just a home/tape measure alignment, but assuming its around 2.5 based on feel. Also running -1.2 degrees of camber. Clear the cab just fine with 0 offset wheels/1.25 spacers. Did a little hammering to the firewall and cab mount is cut as far back as you can take the factory mount.

 

okay cool. ive got the lower cams maxed. Ive got -10 offset SCS's. I've chopped the cab mount and took care of the pinch weld and am doing a cab mount relocate soon. I am currently at F setting on the SPC's. might see if I can manage at setting D and if not then try E

 

FWIW, I also have SPCs set to setting F, LCA cams full forward, and low overall caster, but I don't find them to be harsh. I did a driveway alignment, so not sure the actual numbers. I have 580lb springs up front with only a skid plate adding extra weight up front

If you want to try increasing caster, I'd get a digital angle finder first, and then manipulate the SPC UBJ position yourself. Work backwards from F to E to D and adjust camber with the angle finder and toe accordingly. This will get your numbers fairly close in the driveway, and after you can take it for the fancy alignment to get it dialed in when you're satisfied. Pulling the front shocks out will also help for checking full stuff fitment. Kind of a pain in the butt to make all the changes, but thats part of the fun lol.

 

interesting, I cant remember the spring rate on mine, they just came with the 6112s. I also only have a skid plate atm. do you know if changing from F to E or D would drastically change camber and toe? not the biggest deal if it does cause I do work at my family's car dealership and I can easily drop it at the alignment shop.

 

Since the UBJ slides in and out for camber and clocks to different positions for caster, messing with caster will screw up the camber. Its fairly simple to get the camber back with an angle finder. I went from D to G to F when I changed tires and had to make slight changes to toe each time. Excessive toe in or out will also ride like doodoo, so its important to check it. I didn't check toe when I innitially did the suspension and it rode like crap

 

Thanks for the info. what was the reason you changed it from D. im gonna assume clearance?

 

Yeah I went from 265/70r17 to 35x10.5r17. tried G for max clearance, but didn't have enough adjustment to work out the positive camber so I went down to F

 

gotcha. just got 35x11.5r17 coming from 285/70's. I wonder what it could be then if you're not finding the ride harsh at F. I've been looking for people that run F but havent seen too many. might just try airing down a bit first before i mess with anything and see what that does cause it drives fine, just stiff. not sure if going from 37psi to 32psi is gonna make that difference but we will give it a go. a lot easier that re adjusting everything haha

 

This is one of those things that seems to make sense until you think about it and then you realize it doesn't make sense.

The shocks and springs don't care which direction your wheel is going. Wheel goes up, spring compresses, shock slows it down.

OP, my only guess is that your ball joints are binding for some reason. I'm running my SPC's at G and ~+2* caster and they feel great w/700# springs.

 

As with every SPC thread. Post pictures of your alignment cams. You should be using the lower cams to push the wheel as far forward as possible and then using the uca to set caster and camber.