Help me choose between these 2 subs

You have received some good advice here already but I figured I'd add my 2 cents . Speakers have thermal as well as mechanical limitations when it comes to power and those limitations are crossover frequency/slope dependent. The lower the crossover point the less power it will handle however unfortunately the manufacturers never tell you this important bit of info so who knows how much power a speaker will really handle in different situations. In any case the speaker will never "see" 75 watts unless you send it 75 watts as you ultimately have control of the volume knob so using a 75 watt rated amp on a 65 watt rated speaker is not a problem unless you make it a problem .
BTW, in my personal systems I typically use twice the speakers rated power to better handle transients at high volume without "crapping out".

 

See that is my problem I've been talking to Marv and his friends too long now I punish all of my speakers

 

Agreed I typically run 2-3 TIMES the rated power to my drivers. It has never been an issue if you know what you are hearing.

 

If you are really into audio Anthony you should check out the forum @ www.diymobileaudio.com me, Marv, and I believe atsaubrey are all members there you can learn about anything audio there my friend.

 

I just dont want to buy junk, I want to be happy on the first purchase and not have to second guess everything.

Im stil in the midst of deciding what type of HU i want to go with... asf ar as do i really need an indash nav (which brand to go with) or just a regular mp3/cd deck like i usually have which has been alpine over the years.

decisions decisions...........

 

I understand what you mean Anthony I am constantly questioning if I got the right stuff but I think you need to get what you want and then install it all and play with it a little to see if you like it. I think you will be happy with an upgrade. But if you are like me you will always second guess and want to upgrade because it is just addictive to try new speakers and subs. I've replaced my home theater twice in two years. So what are you gonna do?

 

maybe not so much as buying "junk", but i would rather get something too loud or too powerful where it can be turned down some rather then not getting enough out of my stereo. thats my biggest fear!

 

Boston acoustic. They make speakers. Eclipse/Fujitsu makes everything under the sun so you can't be too sure as to the kind of time they put in their speakers.

I had a BA 12 in my ranger in 1997. Best sounding subwoofer I have owned. They are very warm and accurate (in a correct enclosure). I also use BA in my home.

Also... About the amps. Power RARELY will destroy a speaker. It's clipping of the amp that will do it. Better go with a higher output quality amp then a lower power amp and push it to THD.

Good luck

 

See... i was pretty set on the G1 BA 10s... but being that theyre the entry lineup i was afraid i wouldnt be happy with them and that theyre rated 200w rms. i just cant decide

 

Don't get so hung up on watts. They are a very small contributing factor to overall sound quality and actual volume. Remember that you are moving air, not water. It being a truck, there isnt a whole lot of air to move anyway. The BA 10s is going to be a really nice woofer. I would put those in my truck any day of the week.

 

Not meaning to step on any toes however it is a myth that "clipping" destroys speakers. Average power over time kills speakers and they don't know nor care if that power is "clipped". You can read more on it in the "GENERAL CAR AUDIO FAQ'S THREAD and I can also provide more detailed info from Manville Smith of JL Audio as well as other electrical engineers with experience on the subject.

 

here's a little more detailed info taken from www.caraudioforum.com

 

If you are overdriving an amp that is underpowered and it clips well below the speaker max power, the speaker has to build velocity so it can move air. When an amp clips, the cone will continue to travel even though you don't want it to. The back emf will actually be shown as part of the amp's output. This sounds very annowing. The actual problem is that it's actually very bad for the voice coil. The VC needs to stop, but the cone keeps moving. Eventually the speaker will come apart.


If you force a speaker with too much power (amp is more powerfull than the speaker can take - no clipping), it is simply going to rattle the bump stops, which will in time, ruin your speaker. Speakers are so over built these days anyway.

 

Looks like we posted at the same time so you may have missed this one:

 

EDIT: Looks like I posted at the same time as well!

As with what the others have said, you will constantly second guess. I'm beginning on my 3rd project, and feel like I'm back to square one on the learning ladder. I think I'd do better if I researched all the technology, but then you have to consider THAT endeavor. The market is flooded with false advertisement and people with incorrect knowledge (either because they don't know what they believe or that they are propgating the information to make a buck), and you're left clutching the pieces. On top of that, it's very expensive to simply be 'trying stuff out', and some results are subjective!

Well, trying to move on from that dismal word dump...

I think that you are on the right track, saying, "is this a good item, is this a good amp, now do I need bigger, and do they work together?"

Now someone correct me if I'm wrong: I don't think it's possible to get too powerful of an amp, the trick is to just turn down the gains to safe levels. Having clean, ample power is what you want to achieve over an amp that is overdriven. My old setup was an amp capable of 1100 watts RMS @ 1ohm with a 300W RMS single coil, 4ohm sub (bought 6 months before I knew I could get the amp) - I was severely hampering the potential power of the amp, but the sub was set up correctly and sounded amazing at a normal listening volume.

For head units, I've been told everything plateaus after a given point due to the sound being mainly dependent on the amps. Keep with a good brand and then try to find the easiest, least complicated one.

HU's with navigation: I avoid these because:
1. trying to shove too much in one place leads to cutting corners - is it a good GPS or is it a good stereo?
2. I can take my Garmin GPS out of the car, move it to another car, or take it with me on a hike
3. Buttons tend to be small or it is a touch screen for all controls - I need to be able to feel out the controls and keep eyes on the road. Steering controls help, but even still I find this important.
As I mentioned, pre-Fujitsu Eclipse made some of the easiest-to-operate, best sounding stuff I heard. Mine finally failed after 10 years and 3 installs. It almost outlasted the last car it was put into. Now however, they have all but lost sight of car audio - no more amps, subs, just a in-dash GPS that plays songs as a side job.

HU's without navigation: Since I can't find any alternatives of the same quality, I've looked between Alpine and Pioneer Premiere. I anticipate spending no less than $300.
I had bought a Pioneer Premeire last time, was quite happy, but the rotary dial they use now is too easy to shove in a wrong direction.

I ended up with the Alpine iDA-X100. It doesn't work so great with a portable hard drive (it works, but forgets which song it was on when I start the truck - my Pioneer was perfect, but took 20 seconds to boot), radio presets are horrible unless you have the steering controls handle it, but everything else has been excellent. Time to buy an Ipod.

If you are worried about the wires from a seperate GPS, you can route that behind the dash - local shops will do it for something like $40 if you aren't comfortable.

 

thinking of just going with with the alpine 9886, 4v preouts, usb hook up and its detachable.

 

Ok went ahead and ordered my stuff

Alpine 9886
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?search=alpine+9886&i=500CDA9886

Two Boston Acoustic G110-4's
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=520&i=065G1104&tp=111

Alpine MRP-M450 to push the subs
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=120&i=500MRPM450&tp=115

These last 2 items I already have waiting to be installed...

Boston Acoustic SX60
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=410&i=065SX60&tp=106

Eclipse EA2000 to push the components
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7475_Eclipse+EA2000.html

 

Looks like you have some nice gear and it should sound great as long as it is installed and tuned properly

 

debating whether to do this myself one weekend or take it to the local shop that ive gone to for when i feel lazy