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HELP ME: HAD to cut rear hard brake line and need help with what my options are

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by yoyoboydoag, Apr 23, 2025.

  1. Apr 23, 2025 at 4:51 PM
    #1
    yoyoboydoag

    yoyoboydoag [OP] Member

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    A simple stainless steel brake line upgrade turned into me having to cut and “flare” the brake line since I couldn’t get the 10mm nut loose.

    Anyways the line is cut and I cannot do a good double flare on these lines. I practiced with some copper lines and they come out excellent. When I cut the Tacoma lines the hole is not a round hole and yes I tried de burring it already.

    I’m done trying with flaring, at this point I want to know if anyone here can tell me how to REPLACE this rear brake hardline. How hard is it to replace the rear lines? Or should I just call a damn tow truck and pay thousands lol.

    here is a picture of my “flare”. My other ones came out looking like single flares.

    IMG_8366.jpg
    IMG_8367.jpg
     
  2. Apr 23, 2025 at 5:01 PM
    #2
    TnShooter

    TnShooter The TacomaWorld Stray

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    2 options.

    Make a whole new line from NiCopp.
    Or buy a new brake line from Toyota.

    Link below will have all you need for part numbers.

    https://partsouq.com/
     
    winkel and AJwisco like this.
  3. Apr 23, 2025 at 5:51 PM
    #3
    yoyoboydoag

    yoyoboydoag [OP] Member

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    Why do almost ZERO videos exist on YouTube on replacing these brake hard lines lol! Is it That hard?
     
    Black97v6MT likes this.
  4. Apr 23, 2025 at 5:58 PM
    #4
    AJwisco

    AJwisco Well-Known Member

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    I’d say make your own outa softer material..I’m not too sure you could “fish” a Toyota replacement in their with the bed on etc
     
  5. Apr 24, 2025 at 5:57 AM
    #5
    Peter603Taco

    Peter603Taco Well-Known Member

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    The nicopp lines are easier to flare but you should def be able to do it on the steel ones as well, even with a cheap tool. You need to make sure the cut is square/perpendicular to an inch or so of straight tube where your tool will clamp, the tube is still round (not crushed), no burrs on the ID, and most tools recommend a light chamfer on the OD. Sometimes I have found it easier to cut with a dremel or angle grinder cutoff wheel than a tubing cutter depending on the line/space.

    I would recommend working to get a good flare and splicing to the OEM hard line before replacing the whole section. From your picture it looks like you didn't have a straight section of hose within your flaring tool or you didn't clamp it tight enough and it slipped on the lines.
     

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