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Help Me Help You - Sub Box

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by Tj0hn, Jul 6, 2013.

  1. Jul 25, 2013 at 6:50 AM
    #21
    Hmmm

    Hmmm New Member

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    I forgot some stuff...

    I am putting in a slim Alpine SWR-T10 (10") although now I am kind of wishing it was a 12" but it should suffice.

    I ran out of sound deadoning mat a few days ago and am waiting for more to arrive so am focusing on the subbox today.

    I am mounting the sub so it will be behind the center of the backseat with the two amps on the left (facing the bed) if they fit. it will be tight. I am using the 7.5" for the depth on the bottom. 3.5" for the top depth where the sub is and then half or so will be 2-2.25" shallower where the amps will sit. Since I am only using up the double seat side, the length is 29" and the height is 18" I have a cutout for the bar running lengthwise. This should fit nicely between the seat supports on the floor. The box will be sealed, not ported.

    So eventually, I am installing an Alpine INA-W910 double din head unit. Although I am jonesing for the ICS-X7HD. Cest la vie... it is what it is.

    I am upgrading the speakers to Alpine's SPR-60 Components in the front and just the SPR-60's in the back. Oh... I should order those today so they arrive when I need them.

    Ok.... hope to hear back from you all!
     
  2. Jul 25, 2013 at 7:00 AM
    #22
    chenbro

    chenbro Well-Known Member

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    Man, I drew up some diagrams when I built my sub box/amp rack for my double cab but now I can't find them :(

    Speaker adapters are easy. I just traced the outline of the stock speakers and cut/sanded to fit.

    The drill holes are a little ghetto, but I filled with silicone and the whole box was line-x'd. Consider using 1/2" MDF for the piece that covers the horizontal bar in the back (I used 3/4" everywhere). Also, you need to take into account the thickness of the material that you're going to cover the entire box with, otherwise it may not fit after it's finished.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Jul 25, 2013 at 12:22 PM
    #23
    Tj0hn

    Tj0hn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey ya'll. Sorry, I have been MIA. My second son was born on the 10th and my wife and I haven't had a second to think since. The new one is always hungry and the older one (15 months old) is doing a hundred except during his nap. Gotta love it!

    Anyway, I want to thank everyone for the interest and effort. I will be starting my build here in the next couple of months, but will be building the box soon.

    I haven't decided whether to mount the amp in the middle and a sub on either side, or the subs together and the amp on one side...

    Either way, let's get some measurements out for people of actual boxes. Maximum measurements...

    We know the top depth is ~3.5". The bottom is ~9? Width is 48". Height is ~18.5 with 9" below the brace + 4" brace surround + 5" above the brace.

    These are rough numbers. My purpose in starting this thread was to get solid numbers out there, so let's knock it out! And I promise, when little man #2 settles in a little more, I'll knock alot out and share it.

    Thanks for the input, interest and pictures! Anyone good with MS Paint, CAD or a 3d Design Program?
     
  4. Jul 27, 2013 at 8:03 PM
    #24
    Tj0hn

    Tj0hn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Got the wiring harness and dash kit (Metra matches perfectly) in today. Also, Gracin (the new baby) is getting used to life out of the womb. So now I just need to find the time, order the new amp, build a box and get the measurements out for all of you beautiful faces.
     
  5. Jul 27, 2013 at 8:33 PM
    #25
    eastcarolinataco

    eastcarolinataco one epic taco

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    ive used cad a few times back in 09/10 for a school project i could try and come up with something on that or try to make a 3d render!! im sure after awhile this thread will become sticky.. seeing as everyone likes to have ungraded systems in there trucks ( keep up the good work )
     
  6. Jul 30, 2013 at 9:38 PM
    #26
    Guerrilla

    Guerrilla Smurf it.

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    bumpherump
     
  7. Jul 31, 2013 at 4:15 AM
    #27
    Tj0hn

    Tj0hn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the bump.

    My two sons are taking all the time that my wife and I have!
     
  8. Jul 31, 2013 at 6:32 AM
    #28
    pcabinatan

    pcabinatan Well-Known Member

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    Anyone ever just think of still utilizing the plastic, but cutting out the pockets, and fiberglassing the back wall? You can still utilize MDF if you choose for the sides and your speaker rings, but this could help you with the most airspace and depth.

    I will be planning something like that as I'm going to run two Alpine Type R 8"s behind the seat and want to keep as much factory look as possible, but i need as much space as possibel.
     
  9. Jul 31, 2013 at 6:59 AM
    #29
    Tj0hn

    Tj0hn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes there are builds on here where people have done that. Cutting the plastic is a last resort for me because those are over $500 to replace if you buy new.

    Fiberglass is a great option and I have used it before but do not want to invest that much time into this build.

    My purpose of this thread is to get known MAX measurements out for everyone to use and adjust according to their needs.
     
  10. Jul 31, 2013 at 10:35 AM
    #30
    Guerrilla

    Guerrilla Smurf it.

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    Yeah man, and that leaves no time for.... bumpherump:laughing:
    Well funny you mention that. I'm doing something similar. At first I thought I would just sandwich the cubby part of the 60 side with fiberglass and put a face on it where the sub would go, and also use mdf where needed and seal it good. Then after testing applying the fiberglass, it doesn't adhere well because of a releasing agent in the plastic, probably silicone or something. Now I've started cutting the cubby part out, and plan on using mdf for the back, bottom, and sides. From what I've gathered if you glass the whole thing or the back wall, you would end up having to build it up thick so it wouldn't resonate or vibrate, to the point it would be as thick as using mdf and the cost of materials in fiberglass is more expensive.
    But I'm personally not saying it wouldn't work or couldn't be done, that's just what I've gathered. I want a finished look when I'm done that's why I wanted to do this, basically now I'll just be using the front of the plastic as trim.
    You're right the compartments can go for that or more new. I bought a set off another member. Because I didn't want to cut up the originals.
    Here's a link for any of you interested in some compartments to buy for like 50$ and pay shipping. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacoma-marketplace/280939-2nd-gen-rear-storage-compartments.html


    And do you have a link to the threads that used the compartments by chance?
     
  11. Jul 31, 2013 at 10:39 AM
    #31
    Guerrilla

    Guerrilla Smurf it.

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    One thing I'd like to ad is if you have installed sound deadener, it will effect using some of these measurements given, to the point where they might not be usable or cause fitting issues etc.
     
  12. Sep 4, 2013 at 3:32 PM
    #32
    TaKoToy

    TaKoToy Pretty good at drinkin beer!

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  13. Sep 5, 2013 at 12:15 AM
    #33
    BMG

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    Anyone ever find or make a template? I have CAD experience so if i get a ruff drawing or numbers i can knock that part out. Im looking to build one of these as well... don't want to spend hundreds on MDF haha
     
  14. Sep 5, 2013 at 12:48 AM
    #34
    User Name01

    User Name01 I leave on a donkey and come back on a horse

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    mehh
    This would be great for those of us that like to do our own thing. I tried to make a sub box to fit behind the drivers side. I wanted to follow all the contours of the back cab wall. I got frustrated and smashed the almost finished box on the ground. I lack patience.
     
  15. Sep 5, 2013 at 8:54 AM
    #35
    Tj0hn

    Tj0hn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Once again I have been MIA. My kids just won't let me get a minute. I did however use Google Draw using a few measurements I took got a design built. Still needs fine tuning.

    Maybe tonight after everyone is asleep i'll upload the file.
     
  16. Sep 17, 2013 at 8:06 PM
    #36
    Tj0hn

    Tj0hn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Alright, good news! I have settled on my numbers after a few weeks of tinkering.

    Now, disclaimer, these are my maxes that I established that fit well...someone else may have used another number and it may have worked, but to me the numbers I present are solid and can be used to build almost any setup.

    I'll edit this thread tomorrow at work with the numbers and pass them on to you. I'll also email them to some of the people here who have experience with CAD and maybe get a design out there.

    More to come! Standby!
     
  17. Sep 17, 2013 at 8:58 PM
    #37
    NorCalTRD

    NorCalTRD Well-Known Member

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    This is a cool thread, I plan on building my own box for two 10's and amps in a 06 double cab long bed.

    Keep the info coming!
     
  18. Sep 18, 2013 at 7:11 AM
    #38
    MichaelScott

    MichaelScott Member

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    I would be happy to put them into a drawing with AutoCAD if you send them my way. I'm in the process of designing a box myself and would be interested to see what you've come up with. Thanks.
     
  19. Sep 18, 2013 at 7:42 AM
    #39
    MichaelScott

    MichaelScott Member

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    Here is a rough idea of what I am going to do. I have this sub (Alpine SWE-10S4) already so I am trying to make that work before buying a shallow depth one.

    I am thinking my options are the sub and amp behind the passenger side backseat or the sub behind the driver's side rear seat with the sub under the drivers seat. Not sure which route I want to take yet.

    Any comments, suggestions, or insults are welcome.

    10.jpg
     
  20. Sep 18, 2013 at 8:11 AM
    #40
    Tj0hn

    Tj0hn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That is a great design. What are all the measurements?
     
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