Help me understand 255/85/16 and wheel articulation

It is common knowledge that 265/75/16 is the largest size tire we can run with a stock setup without trimming. That is what I am running now on my base steel wheels. I am also running 2016 TRD OR suspension which has given me a small lift (1-1.5")

Here is how my tires sit now.



It looks pretty centered in the wheel well. I stuffed it as much as I could and got one rear wheel off the ground, and it came nowhere near my Cab mount. I imagine that going from 31.5ish to 33.5ish, I would still have plenty of room to flex and not rub.

I want to run 255/85/16 KM2s on my stock steel wheels and I understand that the alignment I need to aim for is 3°caster, 0° camber and toe. I have stock UCA, and I don't think I can achieve those numbers.

Question 1: What do y'all think? Does it look like I can clear tall and skinny? Some plastic trimming doesn't bother me, I just don't want to CMC.

Question 2: Also, is it my swaybar that doesn't let the two front wheels differ in angle a whole lot? You can see in these pics that they aren't very different and that's with one rear wheel off the ground. I still have a half inch or more to hit the front bump stop.

Don't mind my "hole in the ground plus ramps" flex tester... It's pretty flat at home.

 

Should be alright to run that size with the small lift

Just may require CMC and some trimming

You will get more articulation out of the front if you remove the sway bar.

It will change the on road characteristics in an evasive maneuvering type situation.

 

While I am honored that @ChadsPride has contributed to my thread, that is pretty vague. However, I guess each truck is different and a solid, "yes it will explode" or, "no it will fit perfect", is an impossible answer sometimes. I should have known before I made the thread. I guess I might just have to get the tires and see what needs to be cut. Thank you.

I figured that was what was causing my front wheels to not articulate very much. Thank you again.

 

You have the wheels pointed straight. The tire rub happens when you turn to almost full lock.

 

I checked them at full lock. Just didn't take any pics. The 265s are several inches from the cab mount all throughout the steering range and all through the suspension travel.

 

When you are actually moving, and hitting bumps, your wheels don't just sit there centered in your wheel well. Everything is mounted with bushings/joints, which have give.

 

Sorry my answers were vague. You are probably right as to just mount them up and flex it out.

 

If you have stiffer springs/shocks up front I'd ditch the sway bar. I did and it handles fine on road. My 1st Gen on completely stock suspension was very sway prone without a front sway bar. This 2nd Gen I currently have gave me all the benefits off road and I honestly didn't notice any ill effects on road.

 

Very true. Thank you for your input.

I do notice that the TRD OR suspension, which came off a DCSB, has stiffened up my ride on my single cab. I think I might just try it and see how it works. Can't take but a few minutes of work.

 

Gonna piggyback off of this: after I installed my coilovers I also took off my swaybar. The truck feels basically just as planted in a sudden swerving situation... maybe just a hair more roll prone. But in progressive turning situations it has even less body roll than it did before.

 

Quoting myself... Are Reg cab, Access cab, and Double Cab coilovers the same? Or do they beef them up for the bigger trucks?

 

The trd off road springs are progressive rate coils. All other tacoma models (well not pro's) have single rate coils

Easiest way to remove sway bar was removing skid plate and those 2 tin bars running front to back that skid plate mounts to. I tried for 10 min or so to wiggle that sway bar out without removing these 2 items and it just didn't work. A few bolts and an impact gun and it pretty much fell off (sway bar)

 

Also, according to BFGs data charts

265/75/16 - 31.9"
255/85/16 - 33.07"

I was thinking the 255 was closer to 33.5 or so and the 265 was closer to 31.5...

1.17" isn't that bad, I am feeling pretty good about this.

 

Only about 1/2" of extra tire all around.

 

Looking at this, seems like I should be shooting for a 255/85 vs a 285/75... I'd rather have height than width...wait, that came out wrong...or...maybe it's just me

 

Different strokes for different folks.

 

Depends on manufacturer. My Toyo M55s are listed as 33.5"

Mine lightly rubbed the stock UCA when at full turn with 2.5" lift and caster at 1.8.

Now with LR UCAs at 2.8 caster I pretty much don't rub anything. I rubbed the mud flap a touch upon landing after getting the whole truck in the air a few months ago.

 

The data I was looking at was for the KM2s.

I'll see what I can do about the caster. I really hope I don't need to spend much $$$$. And really? The UCA? I thought skinny wouldn't rub there.
Don't jump the truck. Got it

 

Are the 255s tougher to get? I'm not seeing any real options for a 255/85-16 at americas tire?

 

255/85/16 here on my Taco.

I'm running OME 886s up front. I CAN rub at full lock while off-road. Especially if my caster needs bumped up. To get +3 degrees you may need aftermarket UCAs.

Honestly though, if you do 33s you will rub. How much you rub depends on wheel offset, tire width (255 vs 285), caster, how much you are stuffing suspension at the moment, and how much trimming you've done already. There is a lot of geometry happening under there. Flexing in a straight line isn't where the rubbing happens.

Removing the seat bar allows the body to roll. It also allows the Front Independent Suspension to be... independent.

However, this may also mean more STUFF on one side which in turn means more rub.