Help needed. Carrier bearing cross member bolt will not go back in, rock slider install

I'm finally getting around to installing my set of Mobtown bolt on sliders.

After a relatively smooth install on the driver side, I'm having big trouble with the passenger side. The carrier bearing crossmember bolt will not reinstall, something seems to be misaligned and the bolt will not thread in straight. I tried with the new bolt supplied with the slider, and after that didn't work I dropped the slider out of the way and tried again with the factory bolt. No luck. At this point I'm not sure what to do. I'm considering taking a dremel to the piece of metal that appears to be causing the issue (see pics below) but I'm not sure how good of an idea that really is.

Any ideas?

 

Try taking a punch, or something close to the hole size and try centering it. But do it in that none threaded hole along side where bolt goes, as show in our 2nd pic.

 

Looks / sounds to me like you've damaged the threads. So here is your options:

#1 - re-tap. Go purchase a tap for the correct size and chase the threads. Also, purchase a new bolt.

With the next option, your getting into taking chances that you don't make thing worse.

#2 - Grind the starter threads off of the bolt. Preferably, use a throw-away bolt. Using a grinder or file, start grinding the first two or three threads at the start of the bolt. Grind the bolt into a cone shape. Get this bolt started and run it down. Then remove the bolt and install new bolt.

PS: Welcome to the forum and good luck.

 

Could I have damaged the threads by removing the factory bolt? I couldn't get the bolt to go in without cross threading with my hands, go I gave up. Is it possible the threads were damaged from the factory? It was more difficult to remove than the driver side.

The factory bolt is tapered at the ends, like I think you are suggesting with #2, and it also won't thread in by hand.

 

Possible the threads were damaged during removal if the removal process was difficult. If at all possible, I would run out and buy a tap tomorrow. If not possible, cone-shape the bolt quite a bit.

 

You can also rent tap/die sets from O'rilley's

 

Thanks @PhenixFord, I'll give that a shot.

 

It's called "pulling the threads". If the removal process is difficult, use plenty of penetrating fluid / oil. Work the bolt back and forth during the removal. Just FYI.

 

I was able to get the it re-tapped after filing a little bit of material away from the opening that was preventing the tap from going in straight. I think the threads were damaged from the factory when things didn't line up quite right and the factory opted for brute force.

At any rate, huge thanks to you @PhenixFord for telling me to re-tap the threads. Worked like a charm and was definitely necessary.

 

The bolt is a M10-1.25x25. If you have to replace consider getting a M10-1.25x30. The length will make up for the addition of the slider.

 

Loosen the other side.

 

Old thread but for future reference, when you undo one side it's possible for the frame to spread a little and misalign the holes for that particular cross member. It's suggested in some slider install instructions to rachet strap the frame to attempt to pull it back together to reinstall the bolt.
Mentioned in this the bamf install thread.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bamf-05-80-bolt-on-slider-install-instructions.409450/
Hope this helps someone in the future.

 

So I stripped the head on this bolt and had to cut it off on the passenger side when I did my RCI sliders, how crucial is this bolt to have installed? I know the bolt is important for the slider if you land down on a rock or use a jack on it and I can drill the optional hole in the frame to achieve this. The cross member is riveted to the frame with 4 rivets on both sides, so i'm wondering if leaving this bolt out may cause issues down the line with the cross member or not?

Edit: This is on the 2nd gen but I believe its the same for 3rd gens