HELP! P0022, Check Engine & Low Oil Pressure Indicators

Even if I were to buy a brand new engine, I've already put another 80k miles on this and would still be under the cost of a brand new TRD OR off the lot.

 

Here is the plan. Pull black lower oil pan.

Inspect pick-up sump. If caked, then clean, and replace gasket. Do not replace with a new one if yours is metal, because the revision is plastic.

Take it from. Disassembly and cleaning is a lengthy process which can steam roll into much larger costs. Take it one step at a time.

 

They are expensive, for sure. I guess it depends on what you're doing with them too. If you're driving a lot of miles a used one makes more sense. I only drive about 6k/year and keep my vehicles a long time. My 07 only has 80k, bought as a dealer demo with 3k in April of 07.

 

No.2 oil pan looked like a big raccoon took a shit in it. Forgot to grab a pic, but it was approximately a two inch tall pyramid of gunk. Here's a pic of the pickup. Looking through the bottom, things look surprisingly good.

 

#Extendeddrainintervals.

Looks similar to what mine did. Mine spun bearings after a miss shift though. You're luckier.

On each head. Towards the timing cover. Exhaust side of heads. There is a bolt which houses a filter. Remove those as well to inspect.

 

Rgr that, I have the new filters sitting on the kitchen table.

 

We're drinking beer and debating cleaning valvetrain, no2 oil pan, and pickup as best we can. Sealing it back up, running Amsoil engine flush, and super short OCI's for a while.

Or pulling the engine and then cleaning/rebuilding.

Problem is time and money. It'll take a few weekends thanks to work. Which means I'll have to drive this to/from work and park this in a parking lot

 

I love your car!

 

The bad thing is you can never tell when a small chunky piece is going to break off and clog a return passage and fill the area under the valve cover with oil or even block the oil pickup again... I guess as long as you know going in and run frequent OCI's with flushes it could work out OK... Time will tell.

 

Good god used cars can be scary. It is unbelievable that people will buy a $35,000 vehicle and neglect it like that over a $50 maintenance item.

 

Buddy brought the hoist for his plane over. Can I pick up a cheap engine stand from H.F.? We're going to pull the engine and tear it down.

Also, is there a good step by step available? My Chilton and Haynes don't give me warm fuzzies.

 

If the motor is still in the truck, and you were hesitant to manually clean it, I would put it back together and run rotella synth with a qt of atf, and change it every 1000 miles.

We have used that combo on older toy motors that had sludge issues. You may have to drop the pan again and clean the pickup as it starts to break loose.

Or take this as a sign to pull the motor apart and scrub it down. The ring grooves will likely be caked with carbon. And might as well swap all crank bearings.

I would run the oil/atf combo and then just pickup a new used motor to swap in.

 

Would a new/used motor be better than a complete tear down? I'm not stoked on the idea of trying to flush this out.

 

Maybe time to do a diesel swap?

 

LS swap the bitch.

 

WTF? Damn!

 

Yes. Your current motor will always be an issue waiting to happen. Find a used motor, pull drivers valve cover as it seems to show signs of sludge first. If it looks good, I would swap it.

Using an assortment of bore brushes, rags, and brake clean, will never actually get all the chunks. And someday they can come back to haunt you.

Obviously price has to be taken into consideration, as well as how much your time is worth. Thats something you will have to think about. Also add to the equation, how you use your truck. If you drive to Alaska every year by yourself, then I would lean towards swap. If it is just used within 500 miles of home and can afford downtime in future then maybe cleaning it would work better for you.

It really is a crap shoot. Your current issues or a used motor issues. But sludge will mess with you for a long time.

Edit - if you decide to clean it, I have had good luck with a good strong wet vac. Scrape and vac, scrape and vac ...

 

Money is an issue, time isn't.

I love my truck deeply, it comes second only to my dog.

If I clean, flush, and do short OCI's...there won't be much expense there. We're ready to pull the engine, if "that's the thing" to do.

 

I'd clean it to the best of my ability and call it a day. These trucks can take a beating. As long as your truck doesn't start throwing codes constantly, you should be fine. There's a member on here who pushed his oil changes to 40-50k miles. He has over 300k on the clock and it's still ticking. I'd take my chances and clean everything up. Hope for the best and if it shits the bed, replace with new/used.

 

I got the oil pressure light and it would've been a about an $800 tow for 184 miles. 500 miles, should've bought a new engine at that price.