Help Replacing Brake Lines

I don't want this thread to die. I am hoping to work on the brakes this weekend. I am hoping to get enough courage to try the heating with a torch to see if I can break the rust loose. Stay tuned.......

 

I worked in a Meineke for a few years and can confirm the torch is the method you need to use along with the flare wrench. Small welding tip works best and focus the heat only on the nut. You won't boil the fluid if done properly and like said before, you have to bleed the brakes to rid air bubbles anyway. I might recommend you have a shop do this part for you in case you twist off the line and can't drive to the store for replacement line. Won't cost too much as it won't take them long

 

Good to know. I may have to, but I am trying to do what I can on my own without spending more money for install. I did everything else on my truck up to this point, but the damn fittings have to go and be a pain in the ass. I do have a self lighting propane torch, but it doesn't have a welding tip. It's just a standard Bernzomatic self lighting unit.

 

I'm not sure a propane torch is going to get the job done, you probably need an oxy acetylene torch with a small tip. The goal is to heat the nut fast to expand it enough to allow you to break it loose. Heating slowly with a propane torch (I've never tried so i'm only guessing) may heat both parts and not do the trick. Let me know though, I'm curious if it does work!

 

Well I went and picked up a oxy mapp torch. It has a welding tip on it so I should be able to focus the heat good. My only question is when heating the fittings should I worry about heating the brake fluid to fast and causing a line rupture?

 

When using the torch....short blasts (5 seconds) of heat on the nut only. Try to loosen it. If still doesn't budge, try another 5 seconds on the opposite side of the nut. Try again...etc. Keep trying the short blasts of heat. Never leave it on there continuously.

Metal expands when heated. You want to concentrate the heat on the NUT only so it will expand slightly. You don't want to heat the inner part of the fitting because it'll expand and that'll defeat the purpose of usin the heat.

 

Good to know. Thanks Janster.

 

Thought I better do the final update. I had a buddy of mine that lives behind help me finally get the lines replaced. Only ended up having to use the torch on two of the flare nuts. The bigger issue was that on the rear brake lines the bracket where the lines go has two different hole shapes. The Goodridge brake lines do not come with the different shaped ends like the stock lines. I am assuming Toyota did this so that each rear line can only go on one way when using the stock lines. We ended up having to Dremel the bracket to get the one line to fit so you could slip the retaining clip on. Once we did that everything was good. The only concern I have now is the front lines have a lot of extra length. I probably should have gotten the 2" extended instead of the 4" extended.

 

Have you noticed a difference in brake performance?

 

It's hard to say. I think I can tell a difference. It would seem that the pedal is a bit firmer. It's not like it made the pedal super firm. In any case I have stainless steel lines instead of the rubber ones. Won't have to worry about the lines on the trail.

 

I haven't installed mine yet on the Taco.

I did my sportbike a few years ago...and the first time I touched the brake lever...I endo'd the bike....from like 10 MPH. Just a little 6 inch rear wheel lift...but it was SOOO much firmer and the stopping power increase/distance decrease was great.

It's saved my lift several times since then. I'm really hoping that the feel from the upgrade front and rear on the truck is good. Plus they are extended for the lift and stronger for the trail.

 

Guys I need some help.

I am trying to r & r my brake hoses on my 2003 Tacoma prerunner 6cyl rear wheel drive. Having issues with taking off the retaining clip as there is very little room to work. There are a couple of thin spiral hoses to the right of the upper hose where the rubber line goes through the bracket and screws into the hard line. What are those lines for? Is it safe to unscrew them and move aside so that I can get some needle nose pliers or screwdriver to remove the retaining clip?

Also, I read on one of the forums that it is best to siphon out the fluid in the reservoir. Yesterday I kept filling back up to full only for it to leak out all over my driveway!

Now I know why there aren't many videos on this topic. It can be a major headache on some vehicles, namely tacos.

 

Wise words, indeed. 12pt wrenchs are for really tight spaces.