HELP - Spring hanger repair done wrong, rear axel alignment off

Hello Forum, first post, first Taco, previously a 4runner guy.

I just got a great deal on a 1997 4cyl TRD Tacoma. The truck was previously written-off and has a rebuilt title on it. I was aware they did a frame repair when I bought it, but I looked at the repair and it appeared to be structurally sound (especially compared to the holes in my 4runner frame!) so I decided to buy it. The vehicle wasn't insured so I didn't get a chance to test drive it.

After buying it I noticed it was pulling to the right while driving. I decided to check the alignment at home and noticed the front alignment was ok, but the rear alignment was off. That should never happen...

Have a look at the photo below:




From what I can tell by measuring the drivers side wheel is sitting 1.25" further rear than the passenger side wheel, which explains why the truck pulls right.

Looking at the repair, you can see they rebuilt the entire spring hanger. I think they just screwed up and missed the correct location by an inch. Here are some pics of the repair:







Note: That crack is just in the rhino-lining, not the steel.

The axle is so far rear that when sitting level the rear shackle is pushed back until it's hitting the rear frame:



So the question is, now what the heck do I do?

I have a good welder, but the thought of cutting into all of that rhino-lining and spatter weld repair job is giving me anxiety. But it's not like I can correct this at the axle by moving the centering pin on the spring, the shackle would still be hitting.

What would you guys do? Sell it and move on? Grind the hanger flat, weld on plate to both sides and drill another hole an inch forward?

Help?

 

Bump.

Any suggestions guys? I'm pretty much going to have to bite the bullet and cut the hanger open/off and move it up aren't I?

 

Honestly you're zoomed too far in. Can we get a shot of the axle maybe with no tire on? Just a pic centered on the wheel well looking down the axle would be grand.

Edit:

The geometry on the front looks okay for the hanger. The rear shackle is definitely not a factory shackle. Are the two leaf packs pass/driver the same length? Is it possible someone used the wrong leaf pack?

Second edit: Did the centering pin shear?

 

Frame is garbage that front plate that the leaf spring is mounted to is not stock and is likely covering a huge rot hole

 

You're probably right, I don't look at the first gens nearly that often. That coating makes it impossible for me to tell wtf is going on.

 

I'd also be concerned about the integrity of the frame since the work was obviously half-assed. Crack in the Rhino-lining means that the metal is probably rotting out from the inside.

 

So....much...…..undercoat!!! Never a good sign.

 

Uh oh.... sounds like your only viable option is take the bed off and undo what was done as the job was probably half-assed. Cut n' chop time!

Also, scrape off that rhino-liner thing as it's just going to make the frame rust again even faster (assuming the existing rust wasn't removed and treated beforehand). Cracks in it are an open invitation for rust to join in as it allows moisture underneath the liner, making the frame rust

I know it can be scary to tackle but it is rewarding in the end to do these kind of repairs when you have the skills

 

Hard call to make not being in person.

Figure out where the spring Hangers need to be and buy or build new ones and move them.

Are both sides done like that ??

That is really done different.

Take pictures looking at the inside of the frame.

OP where are you located ??

 

Hey guys thanks for looking. I'm located in BC, Canada. No yearly safety inspections here but they must have passed a federal inspection when they got the rebuilt title. Crazy eh?

For the record I got a great deal on this truck, I paid $2k, and these trucks go for $6k+ around here all day long. So I can afford to make it right again and still come out ahead.

I'm pretty sure that the centering pin has not sheared off the leaf pack, as the length from the axle perch to the front hanger bolt is the same on both sides.

I went and took some more accurate measurements and I think the hanger bolt is only 7/8" off. I'm taking measurements using the holes in the frame, and measuring from the transfercase cross-member.

When measuring from this hole: https://i.imgur.com/dKnXRMR.jpg

To the stock passengar side I get 41-1/8" to the middle of the front hanger bolt: https://i.imgur.com/2yiZgTk.jpg

When I do the same measurement using the same hole in the frame on the drivers side I get 42": https://i.imgur.com/U5lt3d1.jpg

Does someone mind doing the same measurement on their 1st gen on both sides for me?

I'm also missing the same 7/8" when measuring from the transfercase cross member to the axel, etc. It's hard to get a good measurement by myself, but as much as I try I can't convince myself that it's in the right spot. I really wish I was wrong.

The inside of the hanger is pretty gross:



Note the hanging inch of welder wire coming from the gaping rust hole. Classy.

Easy fix would seem to be welding plate over both sides, filling the holes with weld and then drilling new holes. I have enough room to move the spring forward 7/8" without hitting the frame but the hole location is going to be right where the little Z bend in that hanger is. Plus it's a mess there anyways.

Am I really going to have to totally redo this guys frame repair because he missed it by less than an inch? Damn...

 

I am not where my Tacoma is so I am not 100% sure but I think that the rear spring hanger/pivot should be apx 90 degrees to the frame. That spring looks FULLY compressed.

 

Yeah it's flat as a board.

I also think the hanger bolt hole is an inch higher than it should be. What a gong show.

Here's a thought, if the springs are shot anyways could I have a spring shop make a custom pair that's an inch shorter on one side?