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HELP!!! TACO WON'T RUN AFTER MUCH TESTING

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Mosderek, Mar 26, 2016.

  1. Mar 26, 2016 at 9:46 PM
    #1
    Mosderek

    Mosderek [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok guys I am driving myself insane here. I have done maximum amount of research. With still no luck. I will give you what i did right before the symptoms began.

    I bought this truck which idled but not very smoothly. It also hesitated when i would be driving it. As if it was coming ungrounded. when i got home I realized the #1 plug wire was broken so i bought new wires. The intake was embarrassing and had pantyhose for an air filter so i put at least a solid intake on with a filter. During this process i replaced the MAF with one i had from my t100. I also took the dizzy off and cleaned it just removing grime. Upon putting it all back together one of my inlets on the A/C idle up solenoid broke off. I didnt see this as a huge issue since the A/c has been removed. I put everything else back together and the truck ran like this... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYMW3Pa3Ipg

    It would not idle in the video i am revving it and then holding the pedal about 1/4 of the way depressed. I first removed the throttle body and cleaned the IACV with no change i immediately assumed an ignition issue. I tested everything on the ignition side.

    ecm - disassembled and inspected
    crankshaft position sensor - tested ohms
    igniter - tested ohms
    pickup - tested ohms
    plug wires - replaced
    rotor cap - replaced
    condensor - replaced
    coil - replaced/tested
    power to tps,maf,dizzy - tested
    spark plugs - replaced
    fuel filter - previously replaced
    Verified cam timing along with ignition timing and reset dizzy multiple times

    after this i began leaning towards a fuel issue so i rented a pressure tester and tested it with normal results. The fuel filter was recently replaced by the previous owner.
    I was stumped, so i tested the
    VSV- proper ohms
    ATS- 4.9v
    MAF- while plugged in read 12v for the constant wire and the fluctuating wire began at .5v and increased when blowing in the intake. I tested both MAF sensors both responded the same.

    i tested the MAF in depth because a guy told me to try unplugging the O2 sensors and running it briefly to see if there was any change.
    (HERE'S WHERE IT GETS CONFUSING)

    No Luck but when i plugged them back in i for some reason unplugged the MAF and tried it again. The truck was now running without the MAF plugged in yet it was properly responding to the throttle and it would stay running but would rev by itself instead of steady idle almost like when your iacv is clogged. With this i am completely baffled on which direction to go..... I am sorry for the novel, but i wanted to be as specific as possible to get some accurate help or suggestions. Thanks in advance!
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2016
  2. Mar 26, 2016 at 10:20 PM
    #2
    Mosderek

    Mosderek [OP] Well-Known Member

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    This guy seems to be having the exact same issue, but he never stated his resolution
     
  3. Mar 26, 2016 at 10:34 PM
    #3
    RustyVT

    RustyVT Well-Known Member

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    So it's running fine with the maf unplugged other than the high idle now? I was gonna suggest a clogged cat if it was still sputtering unplugged. Had a car that ran just like that, cut the cat off and it ran perfect.
     
  4. Mar 26, 2016 at 10:37 PM
    #4
    mlcc

    mlcc Well-Known Member

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    Did you clean the maf? A tiny spec of dirt on the maf could do that.
     
  5. Mar 26, 2016 at 10:40 PM
    #5
    RustyVT

    RustyVT Well-Known Member

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    Also wouldn't hurt to just buy a new maf, or try a known good one from a tacoma rather than a T100, that is unless it's the same part #.
     
  6. Mar 26, 2016 at 10:41 PM
    #6
    Mosderek

    Mosderek [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Has no cat
     
  7. Mar 26, 2016 at 10:42 PM
    #7
    RustyVT

    RustyVT Well-Known Member

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    Well I guess that rules that out then lol. One less thing to worry about I guess. Did you double check timing is set correctly?
     
    Mosderek[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  8. Mar 26, 2016 at 10:43 PM
    #8
    mlcc

    mlcc Well-Known Member

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    Im willing to bet money on the MAF
     
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  9. Mar 26, 2016 at 10:43 PM
    #9
    Mosderek

    Mosderek [OP] Well-Known Member

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    one i cleaned (with brake cleaner:annoyed:) but i have inter changed the two everytime....i feel it's highly unlikely they are both bad, although not impossible i suppose. they also both tested exactly the same....so even after testing perfectly they can both be bad?
     
  10. Mar 26, 2016 at 10:46 PM
    #10
    Mosderek

    Mosderek [OP] Well-Known Member

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    YES I FORGOT OT ADD!
    I removed the valve cover and made sure the dots on the cam gears were lined up while the crank pully mark was at 0 degrees(that mark is such a PITA to see with the belt in the way.....)

    i reset the dizzy multiple mutiple times to make sure the timing was right. ran the same everytime. i have ruled out ignition since it responds properly when i had the MAF unplugged.....but its so mind boggling.
     
  11. Mar 26, 2016 at 10:46 PM
    #11
    RustyVT

    RustyVT Well-Known Member

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    Brake cleaner is definitely not the way to go when cleaning MAFs... at least not in my experience. It generally will leave a residue which is the last thing you want on a maf. You might get lucky if you go to a parts store and pick up some cleaner specifically for mafs and spray it off, but I wouldn't count on it.
     
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  12. Mar 26, 2016 at 10:47 PM
    #12
    Mosderek

    Mosderek [OP] Well-Known Member

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    yes made sure it is the exact same part number from the 2rz to the 3rz
     
  13. Mar 26, 2016 at 10:50 PM
    #13
    RustyVT

    RustyVT Well-Known Member

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    Let me reiterate that, if it's non chlorinated brake clean you'd probly (maybe) be fine. But chlorinated is a no no, I killed a maf on my first car like that. Live and learn lol.
     
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  14. Mar 26, 2016 at 10:51 PM
    #14
    Mosderek

    Mosderek [OP] Well-Known Member

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    in the other guy's post that i posted he thought it was his injectors causing a bad ground. Possible? if so i have looked at my firewall ground and battery ground and injector ground....anything else to check?
    I'll look around for an Maf in the meantime I'm willing to try anything so throw it at me.
     
  15. Mar 26, 2016 at 10:52 PM
    #15
    Mosderek

    Mosderek [OP] Well-Known Member

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    IT WAS NON Chlorinated!!! The green can!
     
  16. Mar 26, 2016 at 11:00 PM
    #16
    RustyVT

    RustyVT Well-Known Member

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    Cheapest bet would just be to pick up some maf specific cleaner and spray the hell out of it, not gonna hurt anything. Worth a shot at least. But yeah, at this point I'm with mlcc. Everything is pointing at the maf.
     
  17. Mar 26, 2016 at 11:05 PM
    #17
    RustyVT

    RustyVT Well-Known Member

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    Wish I could shoot out some more ideas, I feel your pain 100% on this one. I had 2 cars that ran just like this, one was an easy fix and the other I was never able to fix and traded it for another shitty car. Not a good feeling when you're completely stumped and have tried just about everything. Been there done that. :frusty:
     
  18. Mar 26, 2016 at 11:12 PM
    #18
    Mosderek

    Mosderek [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Got any suggestions of how i can get one and return it if that's not my issue? I want a reputable one too, ive heard the cheap ones never work properly. If only i knew someone close with a taco
     
  19. Mar 26, 2016 at 11:17 PM
    #19
    RustyVT

    RustyVT Well-Known Member

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    Not really sure on the returning part, because like you said. The cheap ones usually suck pretty bad. I've always gone used OEM. Any salvage yards around you? Probly be the best bet on finding one reasonably cheap. But if your salvage yards are anything like the ones where I live there probably isn't anything there except rotten Cobalts and Dodge neons. Could check CL for a part out too as a last resort.
     
    Mosderek[OP] likes this.
  20. Mar 26, 2016 at 11:26 PM
    #20
    CodeSeven

    CodeSeven LOC: 33.781461, -115.867251

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    sorry bud. it;s probably time to take it to a mechanic........ this is out of our hands.
     

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