Help truck cranks but won't Start

Went to work Friday no problems get done and truck will crank but not start. I tried some starter fluid in the intake and it would try to start. I figured fuel pump went bad so I had it towed home and changed the fuel pump. Still won't start

 

As far as I can tell fuel pump is not getting powered not sure why

 

Fuse or relay go bad?

 

As far as I can tell they are good

 

Does your year have the secondary air pump? Also check the crank position sensor. These are common issues that will keep truck from starting but also give mixed signals.

 

A bad CPS normally cuts spark, not fuel. I do not have a FSM for that truck so I could be wrong.

 

Yes it won't start till the truck is running and a few months ago replaced valves for it

 

Yeah I am not sure either. I am not a mechanic in any shape or form. Just know common issues and common sense.

 

I could spitball all day about the cause, but it probably won't help.

Pull the codes and see what's there.
Test spark.
Make absolutely sure the pump isn't running.
Use a different key? (I don't know how the immobilizer works on these.)

 

Truck will run with starter fluid so I got spark just no fuel from pump

 

Here's the fuel pump wiring diagram, make sure the two fuses (in blue boxes) are good--if after that there is still no power to the pump suspect the relays or relay control circuits:

 

Spray some throttle body cleaner in the intake and crank the engine over. If it starts it's a fuel problem. If not you have another problem

 

got the truck back from the shop to day. problem was one of the after market air valves went bad once they unplugged it truck started and had a check engine light so I limped it home after I spent 700$ on Toyota valves just got them installed and it looks like truck runs great once I cleared the codes

 

What is with "Toyota valves?" I don't understand what that means.

 

I am sort of fuzzy on that myself, however at some point (2010 to 2012) Toyota added some version on secondary air injection BS to make the Feds happy (one of the reasons I bought an '09) which seems to be troublesome as the miles rack up. I think that is what the OP is referring to...

 

Toyota Secondary Air Injection Check Valve got 2 of them and one of the after market one a bought failed

 

for some reason caused the fuel pump to get no power when plugged in

 

dealer ship told me the had to call Toyota and one of the things the tech told them to do is unplug the Secondary Air Injection Check Valve to see if it fixed the problem. It was also causeing problem's with the ecm witch I think is the reason why fuel pump was getting no power.

 

Ok, desperation makes me assume that someone is still following this thread. . .
1. My 2013 Tacoma cranks well but won't start.
2. OBD displays "No Codes"
3. When spraying Fast Start into the throttle valve the engine funs "fine". . . As long as I keep spraying.
4. At that, I changed the fuel pump. Still nothing!
5. But, when plugging in the fuel pump, I noticed the color of its '+' wire (black with red stripe), followed its path to driver's door area and there stripped a 1/2 inch section of insulation. . . . Measured to discover that the pump is just not getting any voltage!! When cranking or when running on spray.
6. I checked all fuses (in cab and under the hood) with a test light. -All good
7. I shuffled all like relays (4 types) to corresponding slots. -No change in fault.
8. Disconnected the two aforementioned Secondary Air Injection Check Valves. Nothing . . . And neither is stuck open.
9. Unplugged plus and minus terminals from battery and put them together for 30 seconds. -Someone suggested this to reset the computer.
10. When I hot wire the gas pump the engine sputters for 1-3 seconds and dies.
All 'works' but the engine won't run and everything else is fine.
What else could it be?? Bad ECM (ECU)?? How do I check that??
Help!
Tom

 

Follow the red line in the schematic above.