Help! Truck still pulls when braking

Alright, I've just about had it. My truck pulls to the left when braking ALWAYS.

I've replaced the following

• both sides upper and lower ball joints
• all sway bar bushings (urethane)
• swapped out brake line from caliper to steel brake lines (thought was brake line was collapsing)
• new wheel bearing (drivers side)
• new (remanufactured) caliper (drivers side)
• new (remanufactured) brake master cylinder

My truck still pulls to the left acting just like the caliper is sticking. Once I let off the brake, it still pulls to the left. It takes anywhere from 1 second to 30 seconds after I let off the brake before the sticking stops. It's not so bad driving around town, but on the freeeway it can be down right dangerous when the *sticking* suddenly lets go and my wheels go straight again. It feels like *maybe* something else besides the caliper is causing it.

Help I am at wits ends and am about to take it to shop. I am not afraid of working on it, just cannot for the life of me figure this one out.
Help Please Tacoma World!
P.S. I know the picture is of the passengers side, it was from when I replaced all the ball joints on the truck this weekend

 

Cold it be your drivers side caliper is biting better than passenger side?

 

Or contaminated rear brake shoes?

 

hmm maybe the drivers side is stronger than the passengers side, but the main issue is the sticking. I will check the rear brakes tonight to make sure, I did have an axle seal go bad on the back drivers side once, but I swapped out the whole axle shaft assembly.

 

What brand are the calipers? Not uncommon for parts store remans to be bad right out of the box.

 

dunno the brand, but I got them from O'reilly, did a core exchange so I don't have the box to see what they are.

 

Yeah those are the el-cheapo's. Only parts store calipers Id run would be the Napa Eclipse calipers. Lots on here use them for the tundra brake swap with good success. Sounds like youve replaced just about everything else, may have to get a refund on those calipers and try another brand.

 

ordering them now. Thnx Blue92

 

You replacing them both? I see in your original post you mentioned only doing the drivers side. Its my understanding that if a vehicle is pulling a certain way, you replace the caliper on the opposite side. One caliper having more braking force then the other, you replace the one with less braking power. Which would be the right (passenger) one in your case.

 

I had the same issue.
I did the big brake upgrade using the Napa Eclipse and wheelers lines, still had the issue.
Then I did the LCA bushings and it seemed to have gone away, but now it seems to have come back. I rarely drive the truck but I will test it tonight.

 

Rebuilding calipers is very easy.

 

I was wondering if maybe the pass. side just didn't work at all.

How about all the rest of the brake line? Good? Maybe while calipers off dump the whole system and blow out.

 

I guess a smashed steel line would temp. hold high pressure.

 

Try swapping front tires . LF to RF. RF to LF

 

I guess each truck is different but for mine I had done:
Upper ball joints
Lower ball joints
Steering rack bushings
Tie rods
LCA's
Then a new rack cus it died.
Brake calipers and flexible lines in front

Thought it went away but might be back have to check. Might be tires or UCA bushings.
Even after all that BS i get the truck aligned and it always has improper tire wear. Even if the numbers are within range.

 

The problem might be with the rear brakes.

After refreshing my front brakes, and giving the brake system a thorough bleeding (proportion valve included), during staged lockup tests I had more pull to the left than I wanted. Even though the brakes were locked up, I did not want the truck to favor one side or the other.

It turned out that adjusting the rear brakes had more to do with how the truck behaved during lockup than anything else.

The rear brakes have plenty of shoe material. They just needed to be adjusted.

 

Maybe the new pads need time to seat

 

^^ I think these are important points.

Recently, I replaced BOTH calipers, pads, and rotors and found a substantial improvement in stopping power. The old brakes were not bad. They were just very old and I needed new lines. I thought the improvement was surprising especially since I used COTS brake pads and rotors. I believe the improvement in stopping power came from the new caliper's banjo bolt's larger bore size as shown in the picture below.

I've seen members post about drilling out their OEM banjo bolts to improve brake fluid flow. I don't think I need to do that with these new banjo bolts.

 

• I just checked the upper and lower control arm bushings with a crow bar, none of them had much play in them.
• I also checked the steering rack bushings and they are good as well.
• I just replaced the passenger caliper and EXACT same results.

Next I will check tie rods

The tires are always purchased in sets, it's definitely not the tires. This is too much left pull to be tires.

3 different calipers on the front so far and it still pulls heavily to the left, I'm beginning to suspect it's not the calipers.........

Oh I should add my stopping power is much improved through all of this, but that's not the issue I am trying to solve.

 

Is there ABS?

I am thinking this might be in order... https://leedbrakes.com/i-23439488-b...Pq5-XW82QUqjl6oxxMstRtfkw-JYX2bxoClHwQAvD_BwE