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Help! Upper control arm bolt!!!!

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by soilsample, Mar 4, 2010.

  1. Mar 4, 2010 at 8:32 AM
    #1
    soilsample

    soilsample [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Donald
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    Hey everyone,
    I used a hammer to hit the UCA bolt to split it from the spindle to install my Toytec lift......

    As you might guess, I damaged the threads on the bolt a little bit.

    I cleaned up the threads with a file and they look good. The bolt starts and should go up the threads, but the ball joint assembly starts to spin with only light pressure.

    How can I stop it from spinning to allow the bolt to stay still and have the 19mm castle nut tighten up????

    Help!!!
    Thanks
    Donald
     
  2. Mar 4, 2010 at 8:35 AM
    #2
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is gooder 'en chicken Moderator

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    Sounds like the threads need chased with a die.
     
  3. Mar 4, 2010 at 8:38 AM
    #3
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    4.10 gears, sliders, and lots of buttons.
    Tap the BJ (from the top) with a hammer to get it to seat. Then tighten the nut.
     
  4. Mar 4, 2010 at 8:57 AM
    #4
    soilsample

    soilsample [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I tried to tap it in to seat it....
    No luck it still turns.

    I took off the dust boot and clip ring, should I be able to push the ball joint assembly up throught the UCA, or is it pressed in?

    THinking that i might be able to replace the ball joint assembly at Toyota Dealership.

    What do you guys think?
     
  5. Mar 4, 2010 at 9:14 AM
    #5
    BirdTRD

    BirdTRD Unsuspectingly striking from above

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    Front (2.75" total): 1.6" Eibach coils, Toytec 0.5" (L) & 0.25" (R) top plate spacers, 5100's @ 0.85", Built Right uniball UCA's, Differential drop, Removed sway bar Rear: TSB springs, Wheeler's 1.5" AAL, 5100's, 2* shims, Carrier bearing drop, F and R Spidertrax, 285/75-16 Goodyear Duratracs, Self-fabbed sliders, rear bumper, and skid plates, Cobra 75 CB, Bed lined slim lo-pro tool box, Bed Extender, Diff breather mod, Two tail gate security mods, Exhaust dumped behind axle, Can't leave shit alone so plenty more coming...
    That sucks. I didn't have any problems any of the times I've had mine apart.

    I doubt there is a hex nut embedded in the bottom end of the bolt that you use to stabilize it?

    How about a c-clamp pressing the bottom of the bolt into the top of the ball joint?

    How about rubber or fabric insulated vice grips grabbing the bottom bolt threads?
     
  6. Mar 4, 2010 at 9:32 AM
    #6
    soilsample

    soilsample [OP] Well-Known Member

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    No, there's not an allen wrench slot under the bottom like most have......
    Still out there fighting it..

    I'd like to get the whole assembly out of the UCA and bring it to try and get a replacement.

    Any more advice?
     
  7. Mar 4, 2010 at 9:56 AM
    #7
    BirdTRD

    BirdTRD Unsuspectingly striking from above

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    Front (2.75" total): 1.6" Eibach coils, Toytec 0.5" (L) & 0.25" (R) top plate spacers, 5100's @ 0.85", Built Right uniball UCA's, Differential drop, Removed sway bar Rear: TSB springs, Wheeler's 1.5" AAL, 5100's, 2* shims, Carrier bearing drop, F and R Spidertrax, 285/75-16 Goodyear Duratracs, Self-fabbed sliders, rear bumper, and skid plates, Cobra 75 CB, Bed lined slim lo-pro tool box, Bed Extender, Diff breather mod, Two tail gate security mods, Exhaust dumped behind axle, Can't leave shit alone so plenty more coming...
    Did you try the other two things I mentioned?
     
  8. Mar 4, 2010 at 10:01 AM
    #8
    Dark Knight

    Dark Knight Well-Known Member

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    After you tap the uca bolt into the spindle use a strong clamp to hold everything tight. Using an air impact wrench will aid in the process of getting the castle nut back on (use only if the nut threads on by hand first). Next time do not hit the bolt with a hammer, hit the spindle to unseat the bolt, a couple good whacks will get it done.
     
  9. Mar 4, 2010 at 5:33 PM
    #9
    soilsample

    soilsample [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all the advice.
    I'll probably replace the whole thing..... it is assembled and holding, but i had to stack a few washers above the castle nut because I cant run the nut all the way up.
     
  10. Mar 20, 2010 at 12:07 PM
    #10
    Oskie_78

    Oskie_78 Everything's BIGGER in TX!

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    I didn't want to start a new thread...so, does anyone know the toyota part number for the UCA bolt? Thanks.
     
  11. Mar 20, 2010 at 12:12 PM
    #11
    JayJay

    JayJay Well-Known Member

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    Use only ( Brass Hammer ) to hit bolts next time ,or brass punch ..... Soft metal , saves the threads .......... Enjoy the Ride !!!!!!!!!!!
     
  12. Mar 20, 2010 at 12:16 PM
    #12
    soilsample

    soilsample [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'd like to know where to get that 19mm castle nut too
     
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