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Help wiring 2 amps! 1 for speakers, 1 for sub.

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by ratrod, Nov 25, 2011.

  1. Nov 25, 2011 at 12:29 PM
    #1
    ratrod

    ratrod [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I am in the process of getting things together 2 wire up 1 amp to run my 4 speakers and another 2 channel amp to run possibly 2 8" subs. My question is about running power, ground and the turn wire from hu. What is the best way to run power? Have 2 seperate power wires coming from battery or a power block or something where the will both get juice? Does anyone have good examples and pics on good safe wiring os 2 amps?

    Thanks
     
  2. Nov 25, 2011 at 8:11 PM
    #2
    ratrod

    ratrod [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Anyone?

    Well I'm working on the sub box now. Will post picks when done. Then I will tackle the wiring. I;m very particular about running wires properly and well hidden. If anybody has advice on wiring and running 2 amps I would appreciate it.
     
  3. Nov 25, 2011 at 8:32 PM
    #3
    WestEnd

    WestEnd Member

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    Easy. Run 4 Gauge from the Battery back to your amps and split from there with a distribution block. Depending on Amp ratings (watts) you can finish with 4 gauge or down to 8 gauge, BUT (!) make sure it is TRUE 4 or 8 gauge, and not the crap you buy at Best Buy or WalMart. Stinger, Memphis and Kicker all make excellent 100% copper for ultimate current transfer. After all, you want to get all the performance out of your amplifier that you paid for, right?! Cheap, overated wire will choke your system and overheat your equipment.
    Make sure to use a grommet through the firewall and an ANL fuseholder within 8 inches of your battery. Use whatever fuse matches the fuses on your amps. If they add up to 100... use a 100 amp ANL fuse. Don't use cheap glass tube fuses. They are prone to breaking the solder inside the cap of the fuse, so it looks good but is broken anyways.
    Run your power wires under the carpet down the same side that the battery is on. Run your signal cables (RCAs) down the opposite side with the amp turn on wire. This avoids inductive noise through your speakers.
    And most importantly... Ground your amps to the same spot (!), use ground cable that is 4 gauge, and BOLT it to BARE sheet metal within three feet of the amps. Use a Nut & Bolt with a lock washer. Don't use the BestBuy method of simply using a self tapping screw. It will ALWAYS work loose and you are inviting noise and voltage differential problems if you don't strip some sheet metal bare and BOLT it down.
    Andmost head units amp turn on wires struggle to put out five volts anymore, so I'd even recommend running it through a relay if you're unsure at all.

    GOOD LUCK!
     
  4. Nov 25, 2011 at 8:36 PM
    #4
    XJBaylor

    XJBaylor Well-Known Member

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    What you are looking for is a distribution block. You will run one (fuse protected) power line from the battery into the cab. For the sake of an example we will say 4 ga. wire. That would run into the distribution block from which you would run two 8 ga wires, one to each amp. The amps do not need to share a ground, just keep the ground wires relatively short, and make sure they are making good contact with bare metal.

    Something like THIS could possibly work, depending on the amount of power you are drawing.
     
  5. Nov 25, 2011 at 8:38 PM
    #5
    XJBaylor

    XJBaylor Well-Known Member

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    Beat me to the punch, and great first post. Good to see another knowledgeable guy in the A/V forum. You guys are vastly outnumbered by the rest of us.
     
  6. Nov 26, 2011 at 6:02 AM
    #6
    lbridges

    lbridges Well-Known Member

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    Not me, but Crutchfield and others do - the following is from a Crutchfield article on wiring amps.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Nov 26, 2011 at 3:21 PM
    #7
    pinktaco808

    pinktaco808 Hot Steppa

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    x2 that what i would do
     
  8. Nov 26, 2011 at 7:23 PM
    #8
    ratrod

    ratrod [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Excellent post! Helps me out a lot. Very informative.
     
  9. Nov 26, 2011 at 7:27 PM
    #9
    XJBaylor

    XJBaylor Well-Known Member

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    Crutchfield does produce some great information. If this doesn't make sense I suggest having a shop do the install. At the very least, give yourself 2-3 days to make sure you get it all right. Make sure you start by pulling the interior out. At the very least pull the headunit, glovebox, center consle, kickpanels, b pillar, doorpanels, seats and all the trim along the door openings. Get everything out of the way so you can think through the install as you go, and plan your wire runs.
     
  10. Nov 26, 2011 at 7:49 PM
    #10
    ratrod

    ratrod [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Diagram makes sense and first post was very helpful. I actually had a mini sub behind seat and ran wires previously but am going to rerun with heavier gauge wire. Thanks a lot, now I just need to find more time to finish my su box and do wiring!
     
  11. Nov 27, 2011 at 4:54 PM
    #11
    TurboGT

    TurboGT Stirring the pot since...

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    Diagram doesn't show an upgraded ground wire going from the chassis to the battery.....

    I would highly suggest upgrading or adding a ground wire (as stated) under the hood, at least the same size as the main power supply wire, if not larger.

    Also.... ignore the capacitor - worthless
     
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