Help Wiring Auxiliary Reverse Lights

Got the lights in the other day, just ordered the switch. I've been out of town for almost 3 weeks but it's finally comin together!

 

you should come up to the meet this Saturday if you can...

 

Damn man I wish I could but Im goin to the lake with some friends. I swear everytime we have a meet somethin comes up. Ill have to change that one of these days

 

Can any of yall tell me which one is positive and negative from the lights? Also there's a picture of my switch.

 

Doesn't appear as though it matters (some simple wiring applications, it doesn't matter which you use for the positive and the ground). If I had to make a decision, on the third picture, the wire on the bottom is the one I'd use as the ground.

 

Ok thanks, that's what I thought. Also do you think you could take a picture of what you connected to for the switch's ignition power source?

 

Crap, sorry, I forgot I still owe you a picture I'll upload a pic when I get home tonight (I took the motorcycle to work today).

 

Haha no worries! and thanks again for all of your help

 

Alright guys I ran into a little trouble trying to mount the lights today. The lights I ordered didnt come with any screws or bolts, so I went to a hardware store and got what the guy there recomended. Got home and realized that the hitch is a lot thicker than i thought and I snapped a drill bit trying to put them in. Any of yall have any ideas as to what I could do or what hardware to use?

 

Well, I got pictures but I can't find the upload wire! But, I can explain fairly easily where I connected the power to and unfortunately I don't think my write-up will be of much use to you. If you pop the hood and take off the plastic cap covering the under-hood fuse panel, there's a bolt at the passenger side front of the fuse box. I used a loop connector and connected to that bolt. The wire I used has an in-line fuse. From tracing wires, I pulled power from there which is a constant hot, whether the ignition is on or not. I used that as a constant hot and used relays so the lights can only turn on when the high beams and the switch is on. Because the high beams is the 'switch' and the headlights turn off with the ignition, it's impossible for me to leave my aux. lights on.

 

Get a decent drill bit and some self tappers. I'd use stainless steel screws if you can find them and put silicone in the holes before the screws. It'll seal out moisture so the hitch can't rust from the inside out.

 

finally got the lights mounted after I went and got a titanium drill bit. Also went and picked up all of the wiring stuff I needed.

 

Alright another quick question. I modified the diagram a little bit and kind of combined it with the one posted from TTORA on the last page. Will this still work? Again with the black box being an in-line fuse.

 

That would work and your switch would be a constant hot, regardless of whether the truck is running or not. You could move the fuse closer to the battery so you only need one in-line fuse. Split the wire after the in-line fuse and send one to the switch, one to the relay. No need for 2 fuses.

To save yourself wiring directly to the battery, you could use that bolt in the fuse panel under the hood. Keeps the wiring round the battery cleaner looking if that's a concern of yours.

I like that mounting set-up, looks clean!

 

Oh ok, I think Ill connect to the bolt in the fuse box. I just got confused when you told me how to do it, i thought that bolt had something to do with the high beams. I must have just mis-read it. Hopefully by tonight they'll be all wired up. Thanks for your help once again.

 

yes,this will work

 

quick question on this, as it is probably going to be on the hit list very soon.. I'm pretty sure I get the wiring on this, but what is the diode all about, and where do I get one?? what are the implications of not using a diode?