Help with dashcam hardwire

I bought a thinkware f800 pro with the hardwire kit. One of the wires is for the parking mode and the other is for ignition. I got the add a circuit kit and need some help with which two fuses I should to tap into. Also when I tap into the fuse do I put the original fuse back in and then use a extra fuse that came with the kit for each of the wires?

I drive mostly just to work and back during the week and that's like maybe 30 minutes of driving. Would that be an issue for the battery even though it turns itself off when it gets to low?

 

If youre going to the fuse box, the cigarette lighter is switched, the hazards are always on. My kit only utilizes one power wire (cheap camera), and I opted for always on. The power draw overnight is negligible. Take the specs for your camera's power requirements and convert to amp hours.

The one thing I'm still troubleshooting though - my radio reception is now weaker after hardwiring. (HD channels are barely getting HD signal). I'm guessing I have some interference going on where I routed through driver's A-pillar, where I assume the antenna is overlapping. If you experience the same thing, I'd love to hear about it.

 

If you don't have a sunroof in your rig, use the 20amp fuse for that since it won't affect anything else. That's where I tapped my Rexing into and have had no issues. Also, you don't re-use the original fuse, but tape it to the inside of the fuse box under the hood.

 

Switched - Acc.
Constant - hazard lights.

If you are using an add a circuit the lower fuse is the factory one and the top fuse is for the new circuit.
Also you might want to test with a meter to make sure you are getting 12v across the fuse and not just taking it straight (add a fuse should point towards the drivers side )

 

Ah yeah I currently have a sunroof. It's a 17 offroad double cab if that matters. I'll be routing through the a pillar as well so I'll be sure to post about the signal if its causing a problem.

 

So I finally got a chance to hardwire the dashcam and I'm not sure if it's working like it should. I hooked the constant to the battery and the switched to the sunroof. My question is for acc or switched wire to work through the sunroof fuse does the battery or constant wire have to be tapped into the hazard fuse?

 

answer to your question is no- as long as constant is getting 12v all the time it should work whether it is directly to the battery or not.

This is how I did it and how I would recommend; You will need two of these;


One will be the constant 12v, use the fuse spot for the hazard lights, put the hazard fuse ( the 15A one below the red arrow ) into the bottom slot and the dashcam fuse into the top spot, put it in so the wire points towards the drivers side of the truck.



The other is the switched 12v, you can use the S/Roof 20A or the P.OutletNo1 7.5A or P.OutletNo2 7.5A.. your choice. Again, put the fuse you took out into the bottom slot of the add-a-fuse and the dashcam fuse into the top. point the wire towards the drivers door.



All your connections will happen in this interior fuse panel and everything will be easily reversible.

 

Team,

just searched across the board since I was looking for a switched 12v source and came across this as the first post. Is there a switched power source near the top dome light as well that you guys know off? Less wiring to be run all the way down towards the fuse box as well as adding "add a fuse"kit?

Audi had a switched set of lights in the dome that I was able to tap into:
https://imgur.com/a/tksYAwz

Some older posts talk a tap kit:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/dash-cams.483030/#post-14761137

its 30$ on ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-prong-...o-MicroUSB-Computers-Accessories/254049621124


so unless someone has a source for a "linear" 12v to 5v diode kit like the above for cheaper to maybe tap into the mirror for a constant 12v

 

haha small world. im nervous doing electrical stuff on the taco since it was in the after first getting it with some major gremlins and they worked on it for 20+ hours over three days and toyota ate the cost.
like the inline modification but will need to think about it. like the s2k camera mod as well =)

Forgot to mention that i just wanted switched and my mirror seems to be hot all the time.

Would prob need a custom connector one made since mine is using some other gentex mirror style and not the default ones that everyone here is using:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-3rd-gen-today.399305/page-5128#post-18816418

good stuff

 

Just installed a Thinkware. The battery pack is a must. Comes with the wiring harness. You tap a fuse that’s consistently hot. When you drive the battery pack is charging, only takes 20 minutes to get a full charge. Parking mode with battery pack gives you about 25 hours using front and rear camera. Using you car battery to power in parking mode is a drain on your car battery. Even with the voltage cut off it’s bad for battery. Car batteries do poorly deep cycling (voltage cut off then charging when you drive. Invest 300$ in battery pack. Here is the battery that is direct connection that wiring harnesses included.
https://www.blackboxmycar.com/collections/battery-packs/products/cellink-battery-neo

 

Truck sits in the driveway usually weeks at a time so switched 12v is needed for my application. Will have to check to see how much power the switches in the roof console are getting it seems and hope they arent canbus linked.

 

Looks slick!
Which pin version fits 3rd generation?

 

Says that link to Amazon is down @k3vonn