Help with ditch light wiring

I have just order the rigid d-series pro amber ditch lights https://www.rigidindustries.com/d-series-flood-surface-mount-amber-pair-202123.html
And also the Cali raised low profile brackets and they’re oem style switch https://caliraisedled.com/products/toyota-oem-style-off-road-lights-switch
And I was wondering if I need to somehow add a fuse to the circuit or if I can just wire the lights to the battery and ground them then just snip off the ends of the original switch and wire them to the oem style switch or if that is to much amperage because they’re website does not say what the switch is rated for. Please somone let me know

 

Before you add a circuit make sure you’re there’s not a lot of draw from the lights or you will blow a fuse for where you added a circuit.

 

As long as you use the relay that comes with the ditch lights, you’ll be fine. I have one of the OEM style switches from Air on Board controlling my Rigid Amber Pro ditch lights.

So I basically have two wires going through the firewall, and everything else is under the hood including the relay. I snipped off the portions that went to the rigid switch and spliced them to the wiring that ran through the firewall to my custom switches.

 

Switches are almost never rated for the amperage of the unit they are intended to control. This is why you should run your lights through a relay, that way you won't have to be concerned about blowing out your switch.

 

Are you looking for a positive or negative trigger to the automotive relay that your switch and ditch lights will be connected to? Yes you will need a fuse on the positive side feeding the relay.

 

hey did your lights come with the fuse already on the harness my lights haven’t arrived yet so I wanted to know if I need to order anything else

 

Yes, they come with a harness that makes them plug and play unless you order two individual lights and nothing else.

All you need to do to make them work like I did with a separate switch is cut the blue and red wires that run to the rigid switch and run them to the input and output of your new switch instead. The rest of the rigid harness hooks up like normal - both red and black leads to the battery. The black lead for the rigid switch can be ignored.

 

Thank you for the help, how do you like your lights btw

 

Hey also did you put your fuse in the engine bay or in the fuse box inside the cab

 

The fuse is just installed inline on the power wire. It will be about a foot away from the battery. The idea of the fuse is to protect the portion of the positive cable coming from the battery. the fuse needs to be close to the battery so that in case the wire breaks, there is less chance for the broken wire end on the battery side to touch metal and start a fire. If the fuse was in the cab, you’d have 6-10 feet of unprotected wire that could burn down the truck if the wire broke and touched metal.

The lights are fantastic. I got the DSS spot versions, the side emitters get you a nice 180° of coverage and the forward facing spot emitters go super far since they’re spot. They’re a nice mix of near and far sight.

 

I wired my various additional lights to the console: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wiring-project.798271/#post-28601553

 

It comes with a harness which has an INLINE FUSE.

power will come from the battery.

switch wires will go into the cab ~ it comes with a switch (round) probably, from there you can decide to use that or go with an OEM style switch.

 

Clean setup. My compliments.

 

Thanks! It's a lot more work doing all the custom wiring yourself rather than using something like a Switch Pros or similar, but it's about as close to stock looking as I can get it. Had to run 8 wires in a bundle through the dash and out the passenger firewall to where I'll eventually do a fuse panel. Then for the dash lighting for the switches, I used a cargo switch harness and had to splice it to 4 outputs to feed each switch. Lots and lots of butt splicing lol.

 

Nice. I have an Overland Engineering tray with Blue Sea components. More pics in my build thread linked in my sig. I put the winch, bumper lights, and ditch lights in during the same project. 1 day for the hardware, 1 day for the wiring. Wiring was a pain to do right but worth the time to get it right.

 

Why the low voltage disconnect?

 

The accessory fuse box is connected directly to the battery so there is a chance that I could drain my battery if I leave my bumper lights, ditch lights, or some future accessory on all night. With the low voltage disconnect between the battery and the accessories I have piece of mind that if/when that happens I will still have 12.1V to crank the Taco as that is the voltage that the circuit will cut power off. It is more of an issue with boating as you can be out on the water for hours and hours anchored with fridges and stereos running. I just installed it as a safety feature.