Help with Drum / Emergency Brake

Ok, now that I have new tires, front brakes, rotors, slave cylinder, spark plugs, and wires, I'm ready to deal with my drum/e-brake problem that has been around for years since my dad owned the truck.

The truck: 1996 2.7 4cyl 4x4, 50k miles

The emergency brake does not work at all, doesn't even slow you down at <5mph (when I can literally drag my foot to stop the truck). Finally getting under there to investigate yesterday, when the cable is pulled I can only see a little action on the passenger's side e-brake lever (for lack of the proper term... the metal part by the rear drum with a boot over the section entering the drum (one per side), when cable is pulled, this "lever" rotates to engage the drum brake), and there is no action at all on the driver's side when e-brake is engaged.

If I take my hand, I can rotate the passenger 'lever' perhaps a few degrees (less than 5), and it seems to hit something that normally would be engaging the brake. If I do this on the drivers side 'lever', I can get no action at all (so I'm thinking due to all the rust it is seized up).

At this point, I'm thinking of taking the back wheels off and disassembling the drums to have a look inside and replace what needs replaced to get the e-brake and drums working properly (i have a suspicion that only my fronts are stopping the truck, and thus why my old rotors were warped so badly). My problem is, I have never so much as touched drum brakes... never needed to.

So #1) Is there a way to verify if my drums are in fact working at all (e-brake or not)

#2) I'm looking for advice on where to start, or pointed to instructions for removing / inspecting the drum brakes, etc... I have searched the site but found nothing relating specifically to rear brakes.

#3) What is the part actually called (with the boot that enters the drum, pulled when e-brake is engaged)?

Thanks for your replies & time!

 

Thanks for the info! Anything in particular I need to know or watch out for when I disassemble the drums? I suppose my unfamiliarity with drum brakes makes me less confident in not doing further damage. If they were disc brakes I would not even be asking for advice...

And big DOH! on the idea of lifting the rear off the ground to see of the drums are working at all... I already have the back on jack stands (also doing muffler replacement), so its a simple matter... feel silly for even asking now but hey, thanks for pointing it out! Will try cleaning all the rusty components as you suggest and post back

 

Congrats on the low mileage -96... With almost 20 years on them, I would replace the brake shoes and springs etc. You can get a hardware kit off the internet or at your local OReilly/Autozone/whatever store. Be sure you get good quality shoes. Cost will be between $50 and $70. First spray off everything with CRC Brake Cleaner. One tall can will do it for you. You can find numerous videos here or on YouTube to help you with the shoe removal and re-installation. Be sure to remove the e-brake actuator, disassemble and clean it, and reinstall it. While adjusting the e-brake check that when the brake shoes first contact the drum they contact it evenly all around. If you get a shish-shish-shish sound when turning the drum, have it turned or just buy new ones. Cost about $50 each. I didn't believe this until, as a last resort, I replaced one of my drums. That's all I have. Just take your time, keep everything clean, grease the parts that touch (except for the drum and shoes) and you'll be okay.

 

Congrats on the low mileage -96... With almost 20 years on them, I would replace the brake shoes and springs etc. You can get a hardware kit off the internet or at your local OReilly/Autozone/whatever store. Be sure you get good quality shoes. Cost will be between $50 and $70. First spray off everything with CRC Brake Cleaner. One tall can will do it for you. You can find numerous videos here or on YouTube to help you with the shoe removal and re-installation. Be sure to remove the e-brake actuator, disassemble and clean it, and reinstall it. Install new wheel cylinders. The rubber inside the old ones should be well worn out by now. While adjusting the e-brake check that when the brake shoes first contact the drum they contact it evenly all around. If you get a shish-shish-shish sound when turning the drum, have it turned or just buy new ones. Cost about $50 each. I didn't believe this until, as a last resort, I replaced one of my drums. Finally, buy new wheel cylinders and install them. Helluva lot quicker than rebuilding them yourself. That's all I have. Just take your time, keep everything clean, grease the parts that touch (except for the drum and shoes) and you'll be okay.

 

What is going on with the 3-4 year old thread replies today?