Help With Low Speed Vibration After Replacing Front Suspension

I just replaced the entire suspension on my 2017 TRD OR, and now have a significant vibration at low speed (20mph +- 5 mph). It is most noticeable when coasting to a stop, but it is also there when accelerating. There was no vibration before the the work was done. So, I am at a loss as to the cause of the problem, but may have an idea.

The original suspension was seized and rusted beyond repair due to winter conditions in the northeast where the truck lived for the past 9 years. The truck has 127K miles. Most components had to be cut off the truck. Here is a complete list of the parts replaced:

Upper and lower control arms (Mevotech)
All control arm bolts and cams (OEM Toyota)
CV axles (Cardone)
Inner and outer tie rod ends (Mevotech)
Shocks and coils (Bilstien 6112)
Wheel bearings & Hub assembly (TRQ)
Sway bar bushings (Mevotech)
Say bar link (Mevotech)
OEM Steering knuckle was cleaned and reused
Calipers/rotors were reused, hard and soft brake lines were replaced (OEM Toyota)
ABS sensors and cables (OEM Toyota)
Brake backing plates (OEM Toyota)

I had the truck at Toyota today for an alignment. The camber and toe adjusted to spec, but the caster did not. As you may know, there are three tabs on the frame around the cams used to make the caster/camber adjustments. They explained to me that on my vehicle, the top alignment tabs were bent nearly flat, so they could not get the caster to spec. The tabs on either side were ok. I do not have pictures of the cams from before the work was done, so I can’t confirm that these were bent before the repairs, or if I bent them while doing the work. It is possible I did this when I moved the truck after the installation but before the cam bolts were torqued to spec. Toyota says they would have to disassemble the LCAs to bend the tabs back and weld reinforcing beads behind them.

So is it possible that the caster could cause such a vibration? Or could it be something else?

 

Something else I noticed is that the steering does not completely center after turning. I'll have to check to see if the vibration is worse when turning.

 

Did you do the switch into 4WD test to see if it goes away (or is reduced)?

 

I don’t know about that test, but I will give it a try tomorrow morning.

 

It is to test if the needle bearing needs replacing. But, since you had no vibrations before, I doubt it went bad since then. Only driver-side has the needle bearing. The center’ing issue is likely related to the alignment not being completed.

I suspect the axles. Was there excessive play with oem axles? If not, and boots are not torn, reinstall them. Maybe one at a tome as maybe only one axle may be out of balance. I would next suspect the TRQ wheel bearings.

 

My first thought was the axles, even before the alignment. I do have one of the removed axles that I could swap in to test. The bearing seemed tight, but I’ll check it. I also have the removed wheel bearings if I need to go that far.

When I got home I did jack up the front and check the install and for excess play in each side. Wheel bearings feel smooth.

I’ve also watched a number of videos on the Tacoma cam tabs. There are a few aftermarket solutions to the bent tab problem. Gusset weld behind the tabs is probably the simplest. Still, have to take it all apart again…I’m getting good at that now.

 

I had bent tabs as well, on driver-side. I was able to hammer them somewhat into shape - enough for alignment to be done. The cam bolts just need to grab a little so the LCA can be repositioned as needed.

 

I did the 4WD Hi test, and the vibration is about the same. Turning doesn’t seem to make it better or worse. It feels like you are driving over coarse gravel (or rumble strip), shaking the steering wheel, rear view mirror and even the brake pedal. Mainly between 18-25 mph.

Raining here today so not crawling underneath to try anything.

 

I've been researching the caster issue, and don't really see the issue they had with getting it set. All of the alignment tabs now appear to be in the correct position. Since caster and camber work off of the same LCA bolts/cams, seems they should have been able to get it. My truck is not lifted more than an inch in front and maybe twice that in the rear (I overload it often - and I did install new rear leafs, Bilstien 5100s, u-bolt flip and Timbren bump stops). If some tabs were flattened, they aren't flat now (they must have raised them as I didn't - and I wish I had pictures from before the install or even before the alignment). I am thinking of having a different shop check it out.

As to the vibration, which is getting more annoying every day, I think I will start by swapping out the driver's side cv axle with the one good OEM I have. Then do the same side wheel bearing if there is no change (I do have both OEM wheel bearings, which were probably ok, but were replaced because they look terrible and I had the assembly torn apart and thought I would replace everything rather than reinstall the old parts).

I'm about $3K in on what was supposed to be a simple shock replacement.

 

Was this rear suspension stuff also done at the same time you replaced all the stuff on the front?

 

No. It was done about a week before. I dove the truck several times after the rear work was done and there was no front-end vibration. I did have a slight problem (some noise and vibration) with the left side rear brake hanging up slightly, but that has resolved itself.

 

There is always that chance. Would it be a sudden failure, or gradual? Is there a test for that? There was no noticeable vibration before the front end work and it was immediately noticeable after.

 

As far as testing, i'd say put the rear axle on jacks with the tires off the ground, put it in gear and sloely "accelerate" and see if you feel a vibration. If not, it must be the front end.

 

A week isn't all that real long...
I'd still wonder if it's the new leaf springs having lifted it and maybe you didn't notice it within that week (these trucks are extremely susceptible to vibes around 15-20 mph from the driveline (U-joint) angles, even bone-stock many owners have complained of vibration, so is why I asked).

Try loading about 300-400lbs in the bed directly over the axle so that it lowers a bit and see if the vibration changes or goes away. If so, this would point toward the rear driveline and not from the front axles, bearings, etc.

 

Perhaps check your tires for uneven wear or do the chalk test. I had got an alignment two weeks prior when I started to develop a vibration at the same speed range. My passenger front tire was staring to feather on the outer lugs. I rotated the tires then went back and got it realigned, and so far, the vibration has stayed gone.

 

Yes, the new leaf springs did lift up the rear a bit, and I've not had any weight in the back. The rust on the u-joints is also concerning, and the extreme angles of the driveshaft during the rear end work could have forced the joints out of normal position. I wouldn't be surprised if they are not moving normally. It's worth investigating.

 

I had thought about swapping tires front to rear. Toyota suggested that one may be out of balance, but they didn't check them. There is no visible wear on the tires, and they happen to be new with about 1,500 miles on them. I'll keep this in mind as I run through these possible solutions. I haven't done anything yet, but will start with the easy stuff.

 

Well, funny thing about raising the rear and testing for vibration while in drive. The computer doesn't let you do that. You get traction control warnings and you can't rev the engine beyond an idle (no vibration at idle - about 6mph). OK, so I loaded a pallet of concrete blocks (about 500 pounds) in the bed to see if the weight made a difference to the vibration. The results were inconclusive. I could still feel the vibration, although it was somewhat less intense. I visually inspected the u-joints and carrier bearing and could not see or feel anything unusual. The rear driveshaft u-joints are not grease-able, but the front ones are. I can't tell if these are the original parts or aftermarket. It could very well be coming from the rear, but I'm not yet convinced that that is the source. I may try one more thing there though. I have a few of the rear shackle bolts in backwards, which I want to correct. I will check out the rear install also and check that things are in the proper places. After that, I am leaning toward testing the front end work part by part. I need to find a block of time I can set aside for this so I don't have too much down time with the truck.

 

Turn off Traction Control (push & hold the VSC button for 3-5 seconds). You should be able to do it then (you might still be limited to 30 MPH though (not sure) but that might not matter for this case).