Help with LSD vs Rear Locker

If it doesn’t have a red LSD sticker on the rear diff from an early TRD sport then it’s not mechanical

I don’t think you can pull a controlled slide and accelerate in an “LSD” that “works” by applying a brake

which is what most open diff cars do with electric stability control that my ‘08 thankfully did not come with

 

So once again I seem to be getting mixed messages... Do both the Sport and OR have the same brake simulated Auto SLD? If so what is the advantage of the sport?

 

I believe they both have the simulated Auto LSD. That said, it's only OK, but better than a straight open diff with no simulated LSD. Not like a good mechanical LSD (I have the worm gear type, not the clutch pack type so no experience with those).

I've got a Truetrac installed in my truck and it's a million times better in all conditions. Not really an offroader at all but live in Canada and deal with winter weather.

 

What were the costs for the Truetrac if you don't mind me asking?

 

contrary to how i usually do things, i was actually pretty uneducated about a locker when buying my Off Road. I live on a steep drive in the rust belt and thought it might help in the snow. I plow my steep drive and have never sniffed using the locker. Not to mention it has a limit of like 3 mph. Its not needed unless you envision yourself teetering on rocks or stuck in a mudhole. My off road does have Atrac which helps in some snowy conditions, like plowing uphill, but this only works in 4 low.

 

I believe all Tacomas have an electronic LSD (braking/traction control). The OR has a locker in addition to this. Someone with an TRD OR can confirm. Locker isn't going to help you much in the snow, unless you're stuck or in a L4 crawl situation as mentioned above. The electronic LSD would (or a truetrac, which is waaay better than the electronic LSD) kick in in slippery situations, but the OEM LSD is disabled in L4.

 

I have no issue with getting the Sport...

The OR has more miles, but fits my price point much better

The sport has less miles, but would be a stretch on the price point.

They are both 2011 with no rust!!!

Just want to know that while driving to work on a snowy day that they should both handle the same. the extra features of the OR are not necessary for me but come with the one that is more affordable for me. It would give me something to play around with on our annual pilgrimage to CO, UT

 

I have a 2011 SR5 AC. I wish I had gotten the OR. If you can get an OR at a better price, seriously consider it just for the extra goodies. Better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.

 

i would say the features of the OR are not necessary for snow, should perform same

 

Both of those trucks have an open differential with brake simulated traction control.

The Off road has an electric locker and a better brake traction control system that uses an electrically powered brake booster, versus vaccuum on the sport, and a computer controlled ABS system that provides for individual brake traction control at each wheel. This system is called “ATRAC”

 

Here's another though. I have had 2 FJ40's and 2 1st Gen Tundra's.... I know from experience that the 4.7 liter will run forever if well maintained.. How about the 4.0 V6??

The OR I am looking at has 160K and no rust... The 160K does not even make me pause. Am I foolish or do these last like the 4.7L??

 

Between LSD and lockers I'll take locking diff's every time. In my experience "Limited Slip Differentials" are quite LIMITED in what they do. My only issue with Toyota is that 4X4's have to be in 4lo to lock the rear diff. You should be able to lock the rear diff in 2wd or 4 hi if needed. You can with 4X2 trucks with locking diff's.

I'm not as familiar with newer Tacoma's. But most newer vehicles on the road today use some sort of brake activated traction control which applies brake pressure to the spinning rear wheel forcing the other wheel to get power. On snow/ice this is better than LSD or locking diff's most of the time. My 07 doesn't have any form of traction control, but my F150 and Explorer do. They work great in snow/ice. They greatly reduce the need to use 4X4.

 

There are a lot of guys who post here with 400,000+ on the 4.0's. It may not last as long as the 4.7, but it will last a long time. And not having to spend $800-$1000 every 90,000 miles for a new timing belt makes them cheaper to operate. You'll spend a lot more on the 4.7 to get 400,000 miles out of it.

 

A timing belt is $50.

 

Still have to change them out every 90k. Don't have to change chains unless you don't keep track of oil change intervals with good quality oil.

 

Lol you need to change the water pump and serpentine belts at some point - it’s not like they last forever if an engine has a chain so doing the whole job at once is maybe $50 more. Unless you’re driving 100k in 6 months I don’t think you’ll feel the hit.

 

Probably about $800-1000 for the unit and the bearings. Labor is where they get you and a lot of people regear at the same time. They wanted $2g+ canadian so I learned and installed it myself, but it's not a simple job.

I've never needed a locker in my life in winter driving on roads. Knowing how to drive, good winter rated tires and occasionally 4wd is all I've ever needed. If your roads have a foot of snow on them then maybe a locker is justified in my eyes.

My opinion....

 

I think you are overthinking/ underestimating the trucks capability in snow. Both will perform the same in the snow as both have 4x4 and the simulated LSD. It really comes down to a good set of tires. Good tires make or brake the trucks capability in all cases/ situations.

This all being said, I would get the OR. It sounds like it fits your budget better, and you aren't too worried about a few more miles. A locker isn't a necessity, but it sure is nice to have it when you need it. The only thing you're really getting from the sport you're looking at is 1) less miles 2) non functioning hood scoop.

 

Lockers going to help if you have one tire spinning or two for that matter. A true trac will be good until you lift a tire then you’ll have to tap the brakes to trick it into thinking the other wheel is getting traction. Locker / LSD comes in handy when going up hills. Especially on slippery sand covered rocks or ice.

Here’s a good A/B example of open diff vs. locked diff:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4U1SLSV9wNk

 

Just installed a TrueTrac and 4.10 gears. Was about $1,300 fully assembled from east coast gear supply. Local guy installed it for about $300. Could have tried it myself, but didn't want to bother with it.