Help with roll bar

I’m attaching a black horse roll bar to my 2019 TRD sport but on one side of it the lock bolts won’t stay in the track. How can I fix this? Or did I even do it right?

 

Don’t know but welcome to TW!

 

Thank you

 

Post a picture, it would be easier to diagnose

 

x2. Picture please.

 

As with any accessory that has multiple bolts and tabs you should put it tigether "finger tight" until all the fasteners are in place and then tighten it down permanently.

 

IMG_1719 by Mike M, on Flickr

That bar?

I had leftover bolts from my old N-Fab bar (sorry @BigMacMcCoy , I just found them awhile back) and used those on the front. It was basically a bolt through a square washer that fit inside the track. The back mount lined up almost exactly with the bed rail bolt so I simply happened to have longer hardware which let me screw right into the rail mount.

The lack of instructions and pathetic hardware assortment from Black Horse is criminal.

 

YES! Their instructions are horrible. Unfortunately I had to take it off since I couldn’t get it all the way down. I was afraid it’d come off while driving. The welded lock bolts won’t stay in the track when tightening. I get it where it needs to be in the track and as soon as I tighten the flat piece meant to lock it down pops outside that track and makes it basically useless.

 

If you post pics we can help. Otherwise you’re frustrations may continue.

 

I didn't realize that those light bars were still being made.

 

Build your own mounts.

Find a piece of flat stock that fits in the rails and JB Weld or tack weld a nut through it. Then tighten down a nut on that. For the rear most mount you can absolutely line up a bolt with the factory rail bolt and just go through the bar into that hole. That is how the N-Fab bar sits on a DCSB, utilizing the factory rail mounts.

 

Always love seeing your truck

 

I will try that! Thank you

 

Thanks! I need to finish wiring the roof lights and third brake light and take photos when it’s clean. I have a set of cubes I will rear face for laughs too.

I realized I said nut when I meant bolt. I want to say the 1” flat aluminum from HD is the right size for the rails. You could double/triple the thickness with a sandwich of metal to add some strength.

 

I still have that rounded bolt and I'm still using the mounts you there together haha. I'd taken it off and rewired it with KC ProSport HIDs in I think 8", but the mounts worked so well I've never felt the need to do anything different.

Totally agree about building the mounts. It's easy and likely to be much stronger than whatever was provided. I'm also mostly certain it was the 1" flat stock from HD that we used.

And of course a pic of mine because I love it:

 

@MikeyMcFly do you have a link for that roll bar? I just picked up my Cement gray TRD OR after totaling my SR... night a day difference in trucks but have always been in search of a classic “Back to the Future” looking bar.

 

It’s part number RB-TOTAB or RB-TOTASS. The B is powder coated and the SS is polished stainless. Mine is the stainless painted black (poorly) since they didn’t have the powder coated available when I bought mine.

Amazon shows they have it for $572 with free shipping.

 

I have Pro Sport HID in 6” on mine now. Going to finish wiring it up tomorrow. I got a crazy deal where they were only $15 more a set than I spent on the Daylighters you had.

 

Nice! Yeah I picked mine up on a similar deal haha. I managed to get the 4 up top and the 4 on the front for a very reasonable price!

 

Awesome!

I've got 4 up top and then the 30" C series bar. 26,000 lumens, fool!