Help with Starting Garage DIY Set-Up

Looking to start doing scheduled maintenance at home. New to this so my questions will be stupid. Thanks in advance.

For jack stands, do I need 3ton or will 2ton suffice? Looking at this brand because they're available local. Have no other reason to buy them.

As for jacks, I want a hydraulic model but don't want to spend a lot of money, and don't have a lot of space for storage. What are my options?

Final question is about torque wrenches. What should I look at for size and make/model?

 

That rating is for the pair, get 3 ton minimum. 2 ton probably good for a lawn tractor or the like.


As for torque wrenches it depends on what work you’re doing. Engine work you’ll want something in the 10-15 ft lb range but for things like crossmembers, lug nuts, wheel bearings, I’d get something that tops out around 250 ft lbs

 

Yes buy 3 ton and on the jack make sure it has the lift height to get the wheels off the ground. Then if using for other street vehicles it needs a low initial height so you can get it under the vehicle.
I got a synthetic puck to go in the jack head so don't mangle the frame on side lifts but on rear jack under diff without it. For street vehicles with pinch weld lift points buy a slotted puck to fit them.
Jack stands they also have a cover to not mark if so inclined. Cost is always involved and search Harbor Freight and then Home Depot and Lowes all have them too - Amazon too but can't really see/try them.

Torque wrenches have many options and prices but the Harbor Freight clicker ones are often on sale so get a 3/8 drive like up to 75 and a 1/2 up to 150 lbs. 1/4 only if doing fine/low in-lb like torques.
Only big lb torque would be the front CV shaft nuts but you won't have to do those for some time and I did 150 then a big breaker bar and stood on it as final - so exact! Many buy to match other tools in set but over time you will buy many brands/types as you need them unless you have big bucks to get a huge set all at once. I'm more old school and torque lugs the most so don't mess up studs and rotors but most other things do by feel/tight enough/don't stretch or break it and use blue thread locker if critical nut/bolt but that's just me.

Of course you will need all 3 sets of socket sizes and some in 6 point so you don't round/strip heads. Regular and some deep ones. Lugs are 21mm and lots of brakes use some 18mm. Lots of extensions too.
You will find out all the specialty tools you will need as you need them! Oil pan, filter tool, brake wrenches, combo wrenches, ratcheting wrenches, slim wrenches etc.

Enjoy and don't cheap out on a too small jack. Get 4 jack stands. You don't want to get crushed when under that Tacoma. Safety first.

 

Get 6 ton Jack stands. 3 ton are too short.

 

A year or two ago I needed a higher capacity torque wrench, I was reluctant to spend big dollars for a tool that will be seldom used yet wanted something higher spec than HF.

I bought a TEKTON brand on AMZ and was stunned how nice it was, it came with a nice case too, I would have confidence in other tools from this brand.
A case is important because if you aren't using the torque wrench it should always be in the case to protect it.

https://www.tekton.com/wrenches/torque-wrenches

As far as jacks go HF seems to have a corner on the jack market and they seem to hold up fine. The jump from HF to professional grade or US made jacks is about 3 or 4 times the cost.

 

HF Daytona 3 ton floor jack.

 

These should work?

 

Yes looks like a good choice. The safety pin is a nice feature. Look online for HF coupons. 20% off is their usual coupon.

 

Thanks for the tip. Looks like there is currently a 25% coupon:

 

I wouldn't stress about getting everything all at once because it will add up fast. Not saying that's what you're looking to do, but you can really do a lot with a little when necessary.

Jack stands, get 6 tons, more for the height than anything. For floor jacks, Harbor freight ones are nice. I use a Daytona but their Pittsburgh are nice too. If you're not planning on a ton of wrenching and are trying to save space, a bottle jack with enough reach always an option. Not quite as easy to use, but it will certainly get the job done. Look for one with about 20" of lift height.

Torque wrench, this is my main one, the 25-250 model. It's nice because the extra leverage makes it easier for you to hit the necessary spec, and there are a few things above a torque value of 150, which is what more common 1/2" drive wrenchs cap out at.

$72 TEKTON 1/2" Drive Micrometer Torque Wrench (25-250 ft.-lb.) | 24340

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL1NS?ie=UTF8


You didn't ask, but for sockets and ratchets, harbor freight also has nice ones. For starting out, a 3/8" set that includes 10,11,12,13,14,17 and a 1/2" set that includes 14,17,19, 21,22,24 will cover most everything you'll need. I recommend 6 point sockets as they'll be less likely to round off a bolt. If I had to pick only shallow or deep sockets, I would buy deep. They're generally more versatile.

Get a breaker bar too, doesn't have to be ratcheting. Also a proper set of wheel chocks (versus a chunk of wood), as well as a set of wrenches ranging from 10mm-19mm.

This'll cover most standard jobs and you can buy more as you need, based on the particular job. My .02

edit: I see now that you're just looking for maintenance. The above tool list may be a bit overkill, I saw DIY and just started typing. If you're only doing maintenance then I would just buy what's needed as each job comes along.

 

If you are actually using a garage and are anything like me ( hate to see stains)save old, larger cardboard boxes. Work great for putting under fluid areas ie rear diff, oil drain, trans drain etc to catch fluids that splash, drip, etc.

A good habit is when you know you are going to be doing fluids and putting the cardboard down, use a razor blade to score only the top layer of the cardboard in the are where fluid drips may occur. Allows the cardboard to absorb the oil faster and have less mess when done. Just my two pesos worth.

 

Can't sort by lift height and doesn't appear many will go as high as 20". Would this do the job (18") for the 23 Tacoma and a 22 VW Atlas? Either way, great tip on the bottle jacks as they appear to be very compact. Great for storage.

 

Probably? It’s tough to say for sure though. You can use the stock bottle jack to lift a tire off the ground and measure how long the bottle jack is at that point. That’ll tell you if 18” is enough.

 

i might have missed it.

A decent code reader to read and clear codes.

You can always upgrade later if you really find yourself getting into wrenching.

 

This is the best advice. Buy decent tools for each job as you need them and before you know it you'll have a pretty thorough tool set. You can do alot of maintenance with a decent socket set, jack, and some jack stands.

 

One thing I will say.
I have never once wished I had bought a cheaper tool. But quality, buy capacity that exceeds your expected needs. Been wrenching for 40 years, cheap tools will only let you down when you need them the most.

**Jerry Garcia fan?

 

Thank you for saying that.

Buy once cry once. Especially on things like Torque wrenches. They already have tolerances built into them, the more they are used the more they become trouble. Buying something like a CDI pays for itself after the first time you leave a cheap one set. The pro tools are easily and reliably rebuildable, and in the long run you'll have piece of mind your truck is put together correctly.

I have seen cheap torque wrenches cause lug nuts to be torqued insufficiently and loosen to the point of breaking studs. I have seen one that set torque too high and sheer a caliper bolt off in the caliper.

I don't know what your skill level is, but I see more novices that don't have the "feel" yet, sheer, round, and strip bolts, threaded holes, and nuts. A torque wrench is:
A: the right tool
B: helps you develop a feel.

As my dad said, "you think tools are expensive, try a tow bill."

 

I have the Daytona long reach low profile jack from HF. The only thing I regret is not buying it sooner. Even with my lift and tires, I can still break the tires off the ground with over 24" lift, but it can still get underneath my clapped out slammed Honda with just over 3" of low-pro clearance. The rapid pump foot pedal is *chefs kiss*. It's not the cheapest, but it's far from the most expensive. 2+ years later and countless up/down cycles, it still performs good as new. Prior to that I just had my Husky 3 ton and that thing suuuuuuuuucked.

Jack stands - a lot of people like Esco, especially the ones with the axle-tops (for the axle, naturally). I haven't got a pair yet but it's on the list, and HF has some similar designs (Daytona brand). I did get some Sunex 10-ton "Medium Height" pin-type jack stands and man, they are nice. From 19" to 30" working height - it's like having my truck on a baby lift without the cost and headaches. The tops are just over 5" and go right around the frame nicely. They are probably overkill unless you've got lift/big tires.

Torque wrenches - if you don't want to shell out for a high dollar torque wrench but don't want to use the ol' twisty click type - they make digital torque adapters in 3/8, 1/2, and even 3/4 drive for $40-70. Check HF for Quinn torque adapters - they work great, plenty of folks have reviewed them for accuracy - torque calculation isn't rocket science. Only complaint is they can be hard to use in tight quarters. If you're going to buy just 1 torque wrench, which is how most folks start, make it a 1/2" so you can do your lugs and chassis/suspension. I made it with just a 1/2" click type for probably way longer than I should have, but they get'r'done. A lot of my mechanic bro's and bro'ettes use ACDelco digital torque wrenches and I've never heard complaints, you can find at least one in most shops. Whatever one you buy, just don't forget to zero it before storing or you'll kill it.

Finally, since it was mentioned - don't even waste your time with 12-point bolt rounding sockets - 6pt is all you need unless you actually have 12-point fasteners to deal with. I am a huuuuuuge fan of Capri impact sockets. Milwaukee chromes are probably my favorite because they are squared off at the base so they don't roll away, but my Capri impact sets are by far the most used. They have a 3 row 3/8 set (CP53000-45MSXD - shallow/mid/deep 8-22mm - typically $120 for full set) and if you can catch it in stock, they have a version that comes with an aluminum Westling Machine storage tray and it will cover almost anything you need until you get into axles. If I had to buy just 1 socket set to start, that would be it. *edit* - When you get to needing a 24mm (diff/trans flush) you can buy them individually in your preferred height. All Capri hand tools have lifetime warranty - you just send them a pic with your order number, they send you a new one. Can't get any easier.

- 2 cents from a DIY garage monkey.

 

Buddy of mine always says, "buy your second tool first." In other words, don't waste your money by trying save a buck on something you'll quickly replace.
And yes, big fan of Garcia and his Alligator. Talk about a guy who was not afraid to spend money on tools...custom, custom, custom.

 

OP, just discovered this option while perusing harbor freight. It has almost three more inches lift height than it’s Pittsburgh equivalent, up to 20”. That’s plenty for working on our trucks.