here it is boys, my lift

i put this in the 1st gen cause all the info in the suspension forum pertains to 2nd gens. so i had to space out my purchases due to funds but everything is finally here. i know this has been done many times before but this one is mine. i called a couple of local shops and due to pride and stubborness i will not be paying anyone to do my install. however, i do have a few question... hope to install Thursday or Friday

1. are there any extra parts i might need to complete this install (tool excluded)?

2.if the aal's claim a 2" lift and my truck sits level pre-lift (i'd like it to stay that way) would i set the 5100's all the way up or use the middle setting?

if anyone could post any links that might help. thanks to all in advance

toytec 2" aal's and Bilstein 5100's

 

Congrats on the decision to do this yourself.

Your going to need a spring compressor to take apart your old strut assemblies and to reassemble your front billies with your front coils. A couple of big c-clamps will help with the disassembling the rear spring pack to put in your AALs, Compressor and impact wrench will make the rear a lot easier and faster. Did you get new u-bolts? I don't see them in the pic. I don't recommend re-using the old ones. 19 mm deep socket and wrench.

Hhmmm... I;m sure there is more but that is a good start.

 

i searched and searched for info on weather or not to get new u-bolts. it seemed to me that most guys used the stock u-bolts and those who did install new ones said it probably wasnt nessesary. thanks for the input and im gonna check into the u-bolt thing again

 

Be careful witht the coil spring compressor I changed out my coils for 881's and 5100's set to 0, very glad that the compressor was made out of good steel, I had to compress 5 coils in order to remove and install the new shocks,( used impact wrench ) I thought the spring compressor was going to explode the more I torqued down the springs, kind of scary! Doing AAl and rear shocks next week bought from Downsouth came with new U bolts.

I did do a differential drop to ease the angle on the CV boots.

 

subscribed.

looks good man. post pics and advice from during the install process. problems you had to overcome, etc.

My 5100s get here tomorrow, strut bearings today, and my OME 880s and Wheeler's 5 leaf gets here friday, so I'm on the verge of diving into this as well. I'm also doing the install myself.

I also got the Wheeler's steering rack bushing kit. Hope I don't have problems with it like that guy in that other thread...

good luck with the install, I'm pulling for you!

 

yeah im pretty good at wrenching on cars/trucks but the spring compressor will be a first for me, a little nervous. now im giving the u-bolts a second thought. toytec sells the u-bolts seperate and i didnt think i'd need them.?. still wondering whether i should use the middle stting or the top one. its looking like i'll do the install on friday, i'll take some pics and let ya'll konw how it goes

 

you could always try this if you dont have a spring compresser. iv never done it, but it looks a lot easier then a normal compresser.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_cF4PONAz-8?fs=1

 

That's how we did the coil springs in my old 86 chevy c-10, compressors, really aren't that bad though, just don't use the harbor freight spring compressors!!! mine bent, and broke!!!

 

You could do the loan-a-tool program from Autozone, if you don't want to buy a spring compressor. The loan-a-tool program is free, just leave a deposit and return the tool when your done and you get the deposit back. When I did mine I used the strut spring and it worked good.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/inourstores/lat/latLanding.jsp?bodyContent=steeringAndSuspension

 

interesting find!

but im sure it looks easier on the disassembly the the re-assembly

 

That's what I did.

 

Getting new u-bolts is cheap insurance. They don't cost much and could save you headaches, not only on install day but down the road. You might be able to get away with it but there are 8 chances for a damaged thread to cause problems.

Are your springs the originals? So are the u-bolts... How much extra threads are exposed now. Don't forget, you going to add a leaf to the spring pack. So the pack will be thicker, u-bolts gotta go around that pack.

 

Subscribed! I have been lookin into doin somethin like this.

Are you going to need a diff drop kit on this install, and what about an allignment or even replacing your UCA's down the line.

I don't know much about lifts?

 

Maybe extended rear brake lines? OR the extended bracket for the rear brake proportioning valve?... maybe someone else can chime in on this one.

 

i wonder how many takes they had to do on that tv show to get it right. im just gonna rent one, its free anyway. i did look at the u-bolt and it looks like it has plenty of thread but to avoid any headache i' proly just get a new set. does anyone know where i can get one? i dnt want to order one from toytec and pay anonther $20 for shipping and it would'nt get here on time anyway(hoping to install friday). also im pretty sure a diff drop is only required for 4x4, right?.?.

thanks for all the info

 

Wow 3 groove 5100's I guess I'm the only one with 5 .

Yep new slightly longer U bolts should be used less headache than dealing with 'thread stretch" the used ones may have.

 

Extending the brake line may not be necessary if you are going less than 2" but raising the BPV arm by the amount you lift is important to maintain the braking balance front to rear.

Here is the before:


and after. This is for ~2.5" of lift.

 

Whats the BPV arm? No one ever mentioned that when doing a AAL and like you said it may not be necessary,I never moved the BPV arm what should I be looking for that would indicate that I need to re-position it, I just finished a 3 leaf mini pack on mine, I was only looking for 1.5 and thats what I got.

 

the search function can be your friend.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/59828-brake-porportioning.html

 

I recently put the same lift on my truck, but put the 1.5" AAL on the back. My truck wasn't sitting as level as your is now. If you have your original coils on the front I would recommend setting your billies up front to 2.5". I only got about 2" of lift up front with the billies at 2.5" and my original coils due to sag overtime (I have an '02 extra cab 4x4). My truck still seems to sit a shade high in the back, but pretty darn level. See before and after pics below.

Also, I did not put new u-bolts on. My original ones were just fine. There is plenty of room with the old u-bolts for a new leaf, but you do risk messing up the threads on a rusty bolt or thread damage already existing. Wouldn't hurt to get under there and check them out and when you do remove them squirt a little liquid wrench or rust remover on there before you apply torque.

Before:



After: