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HIDs plus Offroad lights switching issues

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by 186000mps, Nov 23, 2012.

  1. Nov 23, 2012 at 9:29 AM
    #1
    186000mps

    186000mps [OP] ..Slingin' up mud and we're scarying off bunnies..

    Joined:
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    Charles
    Wimberley, TX
    Vehicle:
    01 Tacoma V6 4WD
    Bilstein 5100's, Toytec front adjustable coilover kit, Exporear leafs, Fox resi rears, Slotted & Drilled front rotors, 33x12.50 BFG ATs on Outlaw II 15 x 10s, Bushwacker cutout flares, K&N cold air intake with aluminum sheathing water baffles, ARB bumper with XD9000 winch with wireless remote, IPF 900XS lights, Flowmaster cat-back exhaust, Rhino bed liner, UWS gullwing toolbox with tools and recovery gear. 48" Hi-Lift Jack secured under toolbox.
    Hi Folks,
    I've searched the threads in this section, but have not found exactly what I'm looking for. I'm looking for some direction in wiring my offroad lights to come on only with my HID headlights when in High beam.

    My truck:
    2001 Tacoma
    Current headlamps: Monimoto Mini D2S bi-xenon projectors with Morimoto ballasts and harness.
    Offroad Lamps: IPF 900XSs

    I used to have my IPFs wired to my headlamps so they would come on with the high beams only, but when I switched to HID, I could not get them to operate only on High beam.

    Originally, I connected the IPF relay wire to the red wire with blue stripe of the lamp connector on the drivers side, this triggered them on in High beam, but off in Low beam.

    With the HID harness connected, that wire no longer triggers the relay, the blue high beam indicator on the dash no longer is illuminated, but the HIDs work perfectly in both Low and High mode.

    Incidentally, if I put a stock bulb in the passenger's side, the blue indicator on the dash will illuminate on High and the red wire with blue stripe on the driver's side will again trigger the IPF relay.

    With the HIDs in place, I have conducted continuity tests on all three lamp socket wires and the two wires for the solenoid, but could not find one that was live only with the high beams on.

    The black solenoid wire triggers the IPF relay on Low but off on High, and the red solenoid wire will trigger on both High and Low.

    For now, I am tapped into the red solenoid wire to use the IPFs, but would like them to come on only with High beam, can anyone help?

    Current set up:
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Nov 27, 2012 at 2:39 PM
    #2
    186000mps

    186000mps [OP] ..Slingin' up mud and we're scarying off bunnies..

    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2011
    Member:
    #62581
    Messages:
    778
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Charles
    Wimberley, TX
    Vehicle:
    01 Tacoma V6 4WD
    Bilstein 5100's, Toytec front adjustable coilover kit, Exporear leafs, Fox resi rears, Slotted & Drilled front rotors, 33x12.50 BFG ATs on Outlaw II 15 x 10s, Bushwacker cutout flares, K&N cold air intake with aluminum sheathing water baffles, ARB bumper with XD9000 winch with wireless remote, IPF 900XS lights, Flowmaster cat-back exhaust, Rhino bed liner, UWS gullwing toolbox with tools and recovery gear. 48" Hi-Lift Jack secured under toolbox.
    Any electrical wizards out there?
    Since the original High beam wire seems to want to have the circuit completed, I was thinking of modifying an old H4 lamp with a resistor in place of the bulb to place in the passenger's side free lamp connector.
    Anyone else running HIDs and Aux. lights with this issue/solution/ideas?
     
  3. Nov 27, 2012 at 3:19 PM
    #3
    Wishbone Runner

    Wishbone Runner Because 4R

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    • 04 SR5 V6 • King/Camburg/Icon/Metal Tech • 16" MT Classic Lock • Hankook RT03 295/75/16 • Shrockworks Sliders • RCI Skids • Hella 4000
    On my runner the highs are ground activated, so you should see the wire hot regardless of highs on/off. I have my lights wired the same way as you are trying too, and run HIDs as well, and have no problems. The trick will be to figure out which wire to tap into, you could also set your relay to run like this as well.
     
  4. Nov 27, 2012 at 10:56 PM
    #4
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    Joe
    Central Coast, CA
    Vehicle:
    06 4x4 Off Road Access Cab v6 6spd
    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    A first gen truck has ground switched headlights. Lemme see if I can help......I had a long learning curve on this when I owned my 86 Yota.

    When you turn the main headlight switch on, you are triggering a relay that provides positive power to the common wire on each factory light socket. IIRC, that's the terminal on the left as you are facing the rear of the h4 bulb/socket. The power then flows through both filaments, and the dimmer switch on the column connects one of the two filaments to ground. Depending on the position of the dimmer switch, either the high or low will light. If you look at the way the high beam indicator is wired, it's actually connected the the low beam ground wire.

    When on high beam, power flows through the common terminal on the h4 bulb, through the high beam filament, and to ground. When on high beam, power also flows through the low beam filament, but since it's not grounded, it takes the path of least resistance and flows though the high beam indicator bulb. Weird system, but it works.

    I know little of HID systems, but on the 86 I added aftermarket H4 housings and built a custom relay harness to run them. It's been awhile, but here's what I remember: I connected the original positive wire from one headlight connector to one side of each aftermarket relay's coil. On the first relay, I then connected the other side of the relay coil to ground. When the factory headlight switch was rotated on, that first relay would engage and provide positive power the the headlights' common wire.

    The second aftermarket relay was a double throw relay that, when not energized would connect the low beam filament of the headlights to ground. The factory high beam ground was used to trigger the coil of the relay. When energized, this disconnected the low beams from ground and connected the high beams instead.

    In order to make the high beam indicator work, I had to connect a wire from the new H4 headlight's low beam ground to the original harness's low beam wire, which now was no longer being used to activate anything. My aftermarket driving lights were activated off of this same wire, run through a toggle switch.

    Hope you can apply this to your application. It's definitely different. I believe HID kits have the option to buy a Toyota specific, ground switched harness.

    PS: If you have DRL, that makes things even more complicated. I've seen that diagram, and don't quite get it.
     
  5. Nov 30, 2012 at 5:52 PM
    #5
    186000mps

    186000mps [OP] ..Slingin' up mud and we're scarying off bunnies..

    Joined:
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    Member:
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    Messages:
    778
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Charles
    Wimberley, TX
    Vehicle:
    01 Tacoma V6 4WD
    Bilstein 5100's, Toytec front adjustable coilover kit, Exporear leafs, Fox resi rears, Slotted & Drilled front rotors, 33x12.50 BFG ATs on Outlaw II 15 x 10s, Bushwacker cutout flares, K&N cold air intake with aluminum sheathing water baffles, ARB bumper with XD9000 winch with wireless remote, IPF 900XS lights, Flowmaster cat-back exhaust, Rhino bed liner, UWS gullwing toolbox with tools and recovery gear. 48" Hi-Lift Jack secured under toolbox.
    Thanks guys!
    I had a feeling the solution would be related to strategic grounding.
     
  6. Oct 30, 2013 at 12:02 AM
    #6
    taco47001

    taco47001 Newborn

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