High amp alternator

Getting ready to upgrade my sounds. Going from a 200 watt amp and a 10 in sub to 2 15s and 2 amps pushing about 1500 watts RMS. I’m still using the original alternator from 2006. Thinking about upgrading before I install the system. Any suggestions on a reliable high amp alternator and how many amps do I need ?

 

Watt is simply Amps multiplied by Voltage. Do the math.

If your speakers are running on 12 volts......

Then at 1500 Watts divide by 12 volts yields 125 Amps......but that seem extreme.

Suggest you ask your component supplier.

 

Michael Singer Alternators, period. I've bought 5 of them for various vehicles. He has several amperage options for these trucks, and some are available in a billet large case version. If you plan to work the unit on a regular basis, you want the large case. Note: Singer is a one man show, buried in orders. He will get yours done, but you need to be patient. The last one I ordered took just 2 weeks, but his backlog varies. He generally answers emails in 1 to 3 days. He's a great guy, but you need to understand. If you don't have the patience = Amazon.

 

Thanks
I’m going to check him out.

 

While this is true and the math is correct....you will almost never be running the amps at full bore. Test burps and SPL contests? Sure. But are you really rolling around with 2x15" subs running at full tilt while you're driving around? No way. Not unless you drive with ear protection.

Thus, you'll probably only be running something like 400W total most of the time when listening to music. Most people don't realize that just because an amp makes 1500w RMS, it only makes that when you're using its full potential. Lower the volume and you lower the wattage output by the amp.

 

While that is true. An installer shouldn't size the wires, fuses, power supply based on a partial use of the system.

 

The fuses and wires need to be sized appropriately for the system to function at full power at all. Undersize the fuse, no more music. Undersize the wire...fire.

But most people don't have an alt that can run their system at full tilt 100% of the time. The battery is a power cache. When full, it ensures that even when the alt is at a deficit, there's still plenty of power to go around. And this works perfectly fine. Even when using a winch that draws 400A.

Only reason I commented is because a lot of people think their amp is rated at XXXXRMS and therefore the amp makes that all the time. The reality is most people won't even hit full draw on an amp before they start to bottom out their speaker drivers and it starts to sound horrible. Not only that, almost no one listens to their system that loud all the time. The majority of us listen to 5-8watts of power (on mids and tweets) probably 95% of the time and that's plenty loud for most.

 

I went with a 200 amp alt from BnRParts, an ebay vendor. They also carry a 250-amp alt. Reasonable prices, $167 and $182. No trade-in is required. I replaced the brushes on my OEM alt and keep it as a backup. I'm approaching 40K on this alternator and it has not given me any issues. Also did the voltage boost upgrade with the HKB device.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/352884509130?fits=Model:Tacoma
https://www.hkbelect.com/product/24...nic-fuse-version-micro-blade-compatible-2007/

Remember to increase the alt to fuse box cable with, at least, a 2-guage cable; also, the ground cables (battery to chassis, and engine to chassis). What is commonly referred to as the "big 3" upgrade.
https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/the-truth-about-the-big-3-upgrade/

 

I bought one (300 amp) from bnrparts on ebay. Works Good for me so far. I owned it for 3 months at this point