high heat ac only

My 97 has high blower speed only. Any suggestions on where to start diagnostics to fix problem

 

Check the switch itself?

 

On our ex truck (a '97) the blower switch was connected to a resistor pack, which was below/behind the glove box. The resistor pack is (probably) either disconnected (mine) or failed.

The normal symptom is high-speed only, as high bypasses the resistor pack.

The pack is cheap and looks like this:

http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/toy...=google_base&gclid=CIX6zqGOmLwCFY07Mgodnz8A_A

Google "toyota blower resistor" and you'll find lots of info.

 

Your resistor is bad. It controls the blower motor speeds.

 

Thank You! For your responses. I'll give that resistor a try. lost a couple of days to the flu, now it real cold again, go figure!

 

Did you ever figure it out? I have a 96 and I'm having the same problem where when I hit a bump or something the blower will kick on or off. This is the only thread I found with our years as the other later first gens have different hardware (or so I think)

 

this is the solution

 

OK so is that going to be behind the climate control panel or behind the glovebox by the motor itself?

 

behind the glove box, the fan motor is located more underneath and on the bottom of the box but the resistor relay (I am told) is mounted right there behind the glove box so you should see it as soon as you move the glove box out of the way

 

Alright cool thanks I'll give it a go this weekend probably

 

Just to be sure this is what I need, correct?

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...Y_QYpQ67zYSkFyjOk1fkzWgT3o7VbE9Q1oRoCBvPw_wcB

 

yep but to be honest I prefer paying a little more and using the oem replacement parts whenever I can if they arent crazy expensive and in this case the genuine oem one is cheaper http://www.toyotaonlineparts.com/oe-toyota/8713835040

it is part number 14 shown in the blow up image

 

OK awesome thanks again. I think I might also have a bad blower switch because if I wiggle it the fan will kick back on sometimes. Unless that's also a symptom of a bad resistor

 

that's possible (intermittent internal resistor connections) so replace the resistor first then retest the switch

 

So I finally got around to it and sure enough it was the blower control switch. The problem I'm faced with now is that I'm afraid the harness is bad and will subsequently fry my new blower switch. I'll attach pics so you guys can see what I mean. I plugged the new one in and it works fine but I'm worried that over an extended period of time it will go as well.

 

that looks bad , like a fire just waiting to happen

I suggest you go to salvage yard or find someone with a parts truck selling parts and buy that plug with as much attached wire that comes with it from them and replace that plug and the fried sections of wire.

I would leave that unplugged until you do or if you really need it, then cut that sleeve off and tape up those wires individually so they cant short out. but those wires are still fried and will eventually break apart from being overheated so much so im not saying its ok to leave it like that.

 

That's what I was thinking. Would I be able to find that plug online? I'd rather just buy a new one so I know what I'm getting. I can't seem to find the part online though.

 

nope, only way to get it is to buy the complete dash wiring harness at around $1500

as I said, find someone with a parts truck willing to cut it off the harness plus all the wire they can leave on it, hopefully 8-10" worth

 

Wow. Well that sucks. Thanks for the help

 

just remember to solder the connections and use heat shrink to cover the solder joints so its better then new after.

its a PITA but you'll find one soon im sure