High idle after throttle body cleaning

Drive for 3 minutes not allowing the throttle to close then pull over and let idle 3 minutes and repeat (doesn’t that reset the idle or something?)

 

Next chance I get, I'll pull the intake back off and look to see if it is cracked open a little. Maybe that's all it will be.

 

Was getting 1500-1800 rpm. Then my friend did something with the cable and now I get 700-800 rpm

 

Just went out side and pulled the throttle cable off and started it up, idles much lower. Under 1500rpm. Just blows my mind because I didnt even touch the cables.

 

Well just adjusted the throttle cable and now I'm back to normal idle. My guess is that at some point in the trucks life before I had it, someone adjusted it tighter because all the gunk wouldn't let it close and gave play in the peddle. Then I came along and cleaned which allowed it to sit cracked open just slightly leading to a higher idle. Thanks for the replies and help. Crazy how something so simple can lead to this much of a head ache. Haha
@bsedgal, still curious about that closed loop stuff though. Please school me.

 

What bsedgal was getting at is that to get anywhere truly troubleshooting correctly, you would need to see the values that the different sensors in the OBD2 system use. That won't happen until you get the system into closed loop. When the MIL is triggered the OBD system doesn't allow the ECM to make changes it normally would to correct different scenarios it might encounter in routine driving. The OBD system defaults to 'safe' inputs that are programmed instead of the data that the sensors would provide.
It is not good to just continually drive in open loop mode. Usually defaults to a rich AFR because that is safer for the engine internals over running lean. At the cost of possible damage to catalytic convertor due to running rich.
Anyways, not to be a bore, but OBD is awesome tool to help keep our vehicles in top shape.

 

Start a youtube journey researching things like "fuel system closed loop" , "understanding full trims" etc

Watch a lot of youtube user Schrodingers Box to get fully schooled.

End result you'll get a lot smarter and start realizing how to truly diagnose things. Whereas most folks just load the parts cannon and start guessing.

But yeah if actually fix your rear o2 sensor, I'll predict two things will happen. You'll get slightly better mpg and a sometime later you'll see a P0420 code.

 

Awesome! Thank you guys for the info and pointing me towards more. I've got some research to do now. Just ordered a new o2 sensor to try and get it back on a closed loop. Hopefully I didn't fuck up the cat running it a year and a half without it. I hit the sensor with a transmission in the process of my prerunner to 4x4 swap. Broke 2 of the wires and just unplugged it. Everyone I talked to about it said it wasn't needed for the engine to run correctly. I see how that is incorrect now.