High idle installed…finally!

Yup. You are after amps in any heavy draw situation, not volts. (Technically more volts = less amps, but it's still not enough / not the point of this mod)

 

Extremely well done, good idea, and clean install.
Got any more pictures of install?

 

Unfortunately no. The only pictures that I took are in the first post. If I knew something was going to work, then I would might think to take pictures to help others if they wanted to install one. The first solenoid that I chose was an air valve solenoid that I had laying around in the shop. After fabricating the bracket for it to fit, I had to adjust the length of the push rod by grinding the end off a little at the time. I did all this work strictly under the hood and was using jumper wires to power the solenoid. This solenoid was strong enough to actually lift the throttle itself. After I got it at the correct RPM, I then started on wiring and installation of the switch. After getting it all done, I only had two safety devices in place, the switch had to be on, and the parking brake was providing ground for the relay. As soon as both of those conditions were met, it would automatically kick the idle up to ~ 1800-2000 RPM. This is what I was going for in the first place. Got everything done and tested the system. I let it run on high idle about 15-20 mins or so and it did great. I turned it off, and it came down to the normal idle speed, but when I tried to activate it again, it wouldn’t work, the solenoid was done. I removed it and disassembled it, and the wiring coil had melted on the inside of it. Apparently that solenoid was a momentary solenoid similar to a nitrous oxide solenoid or purge solenoid, it wasn’t designed with a constant duty cycle in mind.
That put me all the way back to square one, as I now still lacked a device to lift the throttle plate. I was past the point of not finishing it as my wiring and cluster modifications were already done. That’s how I ran across the throttle stop, I was looking for something that was designed to hold a throttle plate open.
My point to all of this is a lot of the projects that I do are trial and error. I think of how I want a system to work and I’ll start working on it. More often than not, I’ll run into problems. That’s the point where I always say “damn, that worked out so good in my head” haha! I normally don’t take pictures because whatever I’m doing may not work out at all in the end. Eventually I’ll find a solution though. The third safety feature came installed into the throttle stop itself, as it states in the instructions that the solenoid is not strong enough to lift the throttle plate, but once it gets to the end of it’s stroke it locks in place and will hold it there until you’re ready to turn it off. I decided that this feature was good enough as a third safety device, as I was originally planning on a neutral safety. You have to tap the throttle to get it to activate, so it can’t be activated unless you’re prepared for higher rpm’s in the first place. This was good enough for me to not worry about connecting it to a neutral safety device.

 

$4 harbor freight

What I use on my 2nd gen from the gas (or sometimes brake) to the seat cushion.

You're welcome.

 

I might have to copy your idea for this, its always bugged me when I winch and the engine is bogging down and everything is dimming.

 

Great idea!! I often rev up during hard winching but this would come in handy when using the inverter.