High Output Alternators for 1st Gen

Here is a harness plug that should make the GM alternator plug and play: http://store.alternatorparts.com/wi...cs-style-plug-to-toyotal-oval-style-plug.aspx

I haven't used it but swapping to the GM alternator is on my to-dos

 

I am hoping I am misunderstanding part of what you are saying. You state "If the alt produces 80 amps it's going to produce 80 amps". Are you trying to say that an 80 amp alternator is always putting out 80 amps? If so then that is incorrect.

I completely agree with you that a properly set up second battery is best. (for a dual battery system) I am not a fan at all of the solenoid type "dual battery kits" that are being produced. They don't have a TRUE battery isolation. The Stage 4 Kit I have is a true "dual battery system" in which the batteries are totally isolated on the draw side, and charged from a single alternator. This is the best way and the safest way. I have had people ask me why and the explanation is simple. In a situation where you have 2 batteries, using a solenoid-based dual battery system, it makes it where you are connecting them in parallel, making this a single battery vehicle, with just a higher capacity. a TRUE dual battery system will completely separate the two battery loads, allowing the alternator to only provide current to whichever circuit requires it. Then, adding the SCJS kit you allow yourself the luxury of jump starting yourself in the event that you accidentally left your headlights on, or something similar.

No worries, and thanks for the order, and the kind words.

 

No more than saying a 400hp motor always produces 400hp. That's it's peak output, but it will spend most of its life producing 30-50hp.

An alternator generally needs xxx rpm just to "turn on", peak output will be higher. If you crawl you want an alt that puts out at least as many amps as you consume very low in the rpm range. Or else you're slowly getting closer to dead the entire time you're crawling. If you're always on pavement, it's not as important. But again if you only draw 5amps, you only need to replinish 5amps. It doesn't matter how many batteries that 5a is spread through. Extra batteries (wired correctly) basically only increases the pool of available power, it doesn't increase the load on the alt unless you have 2 dead batteries it needs to charge.

If you think of your battery as a 5g water can and you drink 1 cup of water per hour. To always have a "full" water can you need to add 1 cup of water. If you have 2 g5 cans and drink 1c per hour, you still only need to add 1 cup. 10 5g, 1 cup, same thing. If you drink 1/10th a cup from each, it's still just 1c needed to keep them all full. As long as you only take 1c you never need to provide 2c etc. Increased supply isn't needed until you increase demand.

If you're winching a lot, a stock battery will fall behind. But a really really good alt also won't be able to keep up. A 2nd battery will buy you more time, a high output alt will add extra time to dead but you're still going to be running in the red. A really heavy duty stereo, lights etc, same issue. But without heavy, long term draw, the extra capacity and extra production isnt necessary.

 

Don't forget the OEM fuse box has a 120 amp in it, so the most you'll cram through the system is 120 amps.

 

Considering the stock alt can barely cope with the oem headlights..its safe to safe that adding almost anything is putting stress on it.

 

No kidding. Ha. Even with my current 42" and 20" light bar at ~40amp draw (among other accessories)with oem alt, it's a huge strain.

 

Mhmm! That's more like it. This case won't be breaking on me for sure. Few unboxing photos, and a comparison to the D.C. alts' mounting system and where it breaks.

 

25ish amps when the truck is running and about 30 when it's off, assuming 360w for the 2 combined. That's using a couple generic numbers for 20 and 42" bars., figure 3w per led. Running truck eats up 10 to 20 if memory serves, stock alt is 80-85 peak and will make close to that just off idle. With no other accessories that leaves 35-40a before you start draining your battery. If your alt can't keep up with that it has issues. Your batteries capacity will vary but a generic car battery should gave 45+amp hours. A good battery will have much more. So ballpark, you can run both lightbar nonstop for over an hour with the truck off before your battery is actually dead. Ymmv of course depending on your battery and it's actual condition.

Back when I ran 800w of halogen lighting it was much more of a concern, once I swapped to led I rarely worried. Light up the country, keep the stereo cranked and winch with the stock alt. The last time I upgraded was in the samurai. A few hundred watts, stereo, and 12k lb winch with a 40a alternator, not a real happy combo. Put in a 130a cs alt and it was a happier rig.

 

The 120A alt fuse is the limit for the stock trucks wiring to protect the oem wiring. You'd have to draw over 120A which is ALOT of amps for the oem wires. It's usually recommended to add a new fuse or fuse block when wiring aftermarket accessories and directly from the battery.

I'd say the oem wiring is where the problem lies, it's 14 or 16ga. I've upgraded the wiring in the headlight circuit on other cars and it solved my problems.

 

My lights actually come out to 500w. Not exactly your run of the mill low power 3w light bars. Heh.. And I did mention among other accessories. Not gonna go all technical(because I have now way to test all the amp draws of everything), but all I know is just running those two lights, at idle, there's a huge strain and load on the alt and engine. Even drops the rpm a considerable amount when flicking them lights on. And I can't even turn my stereo/sub(1200w amp) up or they flicker.. And I've tried to run led lights before With truck off and it wouldn't last that long. Granted it was all my lights. Ha.

Battery is a yellow top. So not the greatest, but certainly not the worst. But enough to warrant a dual bat setup I think. Which is in the near future. As are more lights, more subs, maybe winch.

With the D.C. alt however, it doesn't even hiccup. With the exception of the regulator issue it had before I sent it in, as it would occasionally trigger a system wide pulsing. But other than that I didn't even hear ANY engine strain. Or dimming or flickering. Even with the subwoofer maxed out. Nuffin. Just tested it again last night as I did put the dc alt back in temporarily until I got the 250a in. Which I still haven't had time to install that 250a yet. Anxious to see how it performs. But I'm betting it'll do just fine. But the oem alt was a joke with my setup. Lol.
Edit. Forgot to mention I do have the big 3 upgrade as well.

 

Curious, What light bars are you using?

 

Vision X Evo Prime clones. 10watt led's.
Atm, 42" 260w, 20" 240w.
Still have others to reinstall. And more to purchase. My endgame setup will probly be close to 1k watts when all is said and done. Lol.

 

Night vision problems? geez thats alot of light.

 

You got a link to that 20" bar? I got a 20" 3 watter and it's meh.

 

I'm in the process of installing a 32" 180w AUXBEAM. But a 20" 240w is some light!

 

Definitely! The 3 watt lights are great at night, but it's hard to find the tracks in the washes at dusk.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182025946411

 

Awesome buddy, thanks!

 

Did a little update/review on Bills 250a denso replacement alt here. If anyone's curious about it.