High Rpms/Trans Problem

Just tried it. No the code didn’t return after turning the key back In the ON position

 

OK thanks .
Before you start the truck Toyota does a health check on the solenoids .
If there was a broken wire , the code would pop back up before starting the truck .

When you went in to replace the solenoids , how much crap was in the transmission pan ?
were the magnets covered ? how did the filter look ?
Was the bottom of the pan full of debris ?
Was the fluid black ?

What are you using to scan for codes ? Are you able to watch live data ?
Take the truck for a drive to find out when the code trips .
In this case the transmission has to get hot before the torque converter will lock up .
When the truck is cold , it should shift fine 1st to 2nd to 3rd to 4th

 

Filter was clean. Guy before had done a fluid change and changed the filter while he was at it. However the magnets at the bottom of the pan were all three covered in a liquid metal mix. No the scanner I’m using doesn’t allow live feedback. Just drove it while warmed up on the highway and the code hasn’t thrown yet. I’ll keep and eye on it on the way back home and check to see if I can pinpoint if it’s throwing it in any specific gear.

 

And when your transmission was cold , it shifted fine through to 4th gear ? or was it really late shifting ?

I am trying to determine if you have more than 1 problem with the transmission

 

Its really late shifting when cold. Now that you mention it, it likes to hold the gears probably 250-500 rpms extra than “normal” for the truck.

 

200 to 500 rpm isnt bad . They are designed to do this in order for the transmission to warm up . In fact you wont get 4th gear until the transmission has warmed up .
I am more concerned how it operates once the transmission warms up . Judging by your opening post , it sounds like you may have more than 1 concern .

 

200-500 is just a guess. By the way the truck feels, it does still seem late shifting when cold or it will hold a gear and continue to increase rpms at that shift point. And dang that’s not the news I was hoping for. I’ll make a video of the gauge cluster so you can see for yourself what it’s driving like when warm

 

https://youtu.be/04-iwN6PThM

 

Excellent video .
Yes , I could see the transmission took some time to grab 4th gear .
The good news is everything worked including lock up .

Judging by your explanation and your video , I think you have a chance at restoring your valve body .
Would this be something you would consider doing on your own ?
If you read the very first line at this link . It covers the dreaded converter issue head on .
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2764-zip-kit

 

I know it looks intimidating for a guy going into the valve body for the first time , but its really not that bad .
You had enough mechanical understanding to change out the solenoids . Its just more bolts and more parts .
Did you read this members write up ?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/sonnax-zip-kit-a340-late-installation.435019/#post-14714790

 

I haven’t read through it yet, I will take a look. Yeah taking the valve body out does seem like it would be challenging but if I mess it up too bad it would be an excuse for a 5 speed swap . I will take a look at the link you sent and see what I think about it. Would the trans have to come out of the vehicle to take the valve body out without a lot of other stuff coming with it?

 

Transmission stays in the truck . That cable from your throttle body going down to the transmission also stretches over time . I suggest tightening it up a little
I think the zip kit is your cheapest choice ( $350 ) in comparison to having the transmission rebuilt . approx $2500
Another option is a low mileage second hand transmission . $300-$800
Guys think these Tacoma transmissions last forever , so they take their sweet time changing the transmission fluid . This transmission needs to be serviced on a regular basis .
Those tiny particles you see on the magnets are constantly flushed through your aluminum valve body .
Needles to say , the valve body wears out very quickly . Now its costing you extra fuel $$$
Zip kits were designed for transmission shops but the do it yourselfer can also use them .
At this point in time , if you continue driving the truck the way it is , I am sorry to say the transmission will only get much worse .
A transmission shop will not install the zip kit because they wont be able to guarantee their work on a used transmission .
I think the previous owner knew there was a problem . Can you go back to him for some cash relief ?

 

I guess the only thing to do would be to confront the guy about it although I bought the truck in august of 2020. So most likely couldn’t get anything out of him. I also believed a couple months after I bought it the owner knew something was up with the truck. Rebuild is a little out of price range at the moment. I think the zip kit would also be the cheapest and best way to go with it. And if that doesn’t work maybe try finding a good used tranny.

 

If you go with the zip kit , you should call the dealer and order up the valve body gaskets . You will need your vin # handy to get the proper gaskets .
If you plan to go with a 2nd hand transmission , keep your eyes on the buy and sell pages here at Tacoma World . Members are parting these trucks out every day . Sometimes great deals will pop up .

 

I’m gonna think on it for a little bit and let you guys know the plan and how it works out, thanks for all the help

 

Got the zip kit, I’m gonna take a weekend and see what I can do. I’ll post the results whenever it’s done along with a video showing the rpms through the shifts.

 

How sticky should the end plugs be? It seems that the old end plugs would move fairly easy inside of the bore and the new plugs with the o-rings around them took a good bit of pressure for them to move in and out of the bore?

 

Thats good that the end plugs are tight . The tighter the better . Prevents hydraulic pressure from leaking past the end plugs

 

Kit is installed. Good news, truck runs and drives. Bad news, it runs and drives the same as before the kit was installed.

 

Thats not good .
We gotta find you the FSM for your truck .
I am assuming PO 0770 is back again ?