Highschool project and BS

How are you connecting the kicker tubes to the angle iron piece if your not welding?

 

The slider tubes will be welded together but bolted to the frame. So that if I need to remove the sliders for additional maintenance or additions I can unbolt them from the truck.

 

I didn't think about the vibrations transferring from the frame through the sliders to the cab, but I'm pretty sure my 2003 body mounts are probably pretty dried out and I probably won't notice much of a difference.
You may have a good point with your much newer 2012...

 

2 things:
A- listen to @Shmellmopwho, he's good.
2- I need some tissue after this pic. Not the first time I've finished to a pic of bolt ons (oYo)

 

I only say that because I can see the difference from the bumper hoops (directly bolted to the frame) and my hood.

 

Bahahahaha!!

Thanks dude

 

Wouldn't you want to avoid attaching to the body/pinch weld? Sliders are meant to protect exactly that part of the truck, so wouldn't having a direct attachment to that cause damage if you were to slam down on the sliders? The impact would be transferred directly to the body. Being attached to the frame, being really stiff, and NOT attached to the body are what protect it... right?

 

Exactly!

 

ok cool, glad I'm not the only one who sees it that way. They even have a bit on their site that says: "And no 'chat room expert' can deny this engineering fact." referring to the "fact" that their "triangulation" design is the best out there.

 

Since you're probably the only one reading the page, what do you think about the use of the hitch steel and the angled edges at the ends of the sliders?

<--- angled vs ... 90 degree cut ---->

 

I'm no expert in the matter... but even if Hitch Steel is stronger than the normal steel most sliders use, it doesn't matter too much, since the the normal steel used is already plenty strong enough for their intended use. Most sliders out there can already take the weight of the truck on a single point. Using a stronger steel doesn't change anything on a practical level.

As for the angled cut, Ryan (Schmellmop) and I discussed this point actually when he was installing my sliders. It would be helpful if a rock managed to get up in that point, but the chances of something actually hitting that area are very slim. The rock/obstacle would have to be basically a pyramid or something very pointy, and really you shouldn't drive over something like that anyway. The angled cut may help in a very, very rare case.

 

I certainly don’t wanna bash any company but those rocky road sliders are hardly sliders in my opinion. More like nice protective steps

They have 2 legs that attach to the frame and they look like 1 or 1.25” square tube. Not adequate at all. There are no gussets on the legs and it only uses a couple bolts per side. The only reason these wouldn’t bend like crazy is because they’re gonna be hitting the rocker panel and pinch weld on the first hit they take and the body won’t allow those legs to bend.

 

These pass for sliders??

 

That’s what they’re called I guess. Like I said, I’m not in the business of bashing other companies, just not who I am. But these look like very very very very very light duty sliders at best! All I’m trying to do is help @JasonLee make a better choice on a set of sliders when he is ready for a set. He mentioned that these seem to be the best on the market that he’s seen so far and if he’s looking to actually use a set of sliders like they’re intended, then these are faaaar from the best in terms of design.

 

I suppose in the interest of staying relevant to the OP, this is a good example of how not to build your sliders.

 

Egg zack ly!

 

Picked up the 3x5 angle, and some 2x9 plate to cap the square tube ends.

 

They seem to work for this application:
https://www.instagram.com/p/Brp6gu2jItb/

 

If they are not going to bend (assuming the main tubing sections are strong enough for that), why would an impact not transfer evenly into the bottom of the cab where these sliders are up against next to the entire length of the pinch weld?

Also, if the force is transferred in this way, I don't see any reason to have excessively gusseted legs / connections to the frame - all those connections are doing are keeping the sliders from rotating (ends of legs towards the ground - outside of sliders up into the outside of the truck cab/doors).

 

That's a very cool shop project (I assume that's what it is?) Learning and practical at the same time.

For an electronics project when in Tech school a couple of us drew up and built a 12v 'Christmas tree' (drag strip) from junkyard parts an scraps from around our houses. It disassembled quickly to toss in the trunk of the starters car. Some say it might have been used in street racing.

My dad found it in the trunk and asked what it was. I showed him our drawings and how it assembled and worked. He said 'you know what that looks like to me?' No, dad, what? 'It looks like 'your Honor, this is exhibit A'.