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HO alternator

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by chazjb, Feb 20, 2011.

  1. Feb 20, 2011 at 1:15 AM
    #1
    chazjb

    chazjb [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys so ive been doing some reading and found out that some GM alternators will fit in our 3.4L just have to add a washer or two and also a new wire harnes. but i have read the thread... (http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=144170&highlight=alternator) many times and cant seem to see if the alt that they are swapping is the GM 140 amp or not. I have found 140, 170, 200 amp GM alt's but want to know if anyone has tried to fit the 170 amp instead. I run a lot of lights ( six 55w HID offroad lights, 35w HID headlights, 24w LED rock lights, also a double din deck, amp, sub, and i plan to add an inverter soon. ) I believe that i need the 170amp alt, Correct me if im wrong. I have done the dual battery mod with two yellow tops with sure power module in between but still am getting the flicker so now my alt is the next thing to be replaced. Im assuming the alt explained in the write up is the CS-144 140amp but we all know what assuming does.:confused:

    So i guess my quesion is...
    1. Are the CS-144 140amp and 170 amp interchangable for this mod?
    2. Do i need to go with the 170 amp or is the 140 amp good for my needs? (stock is 70 amp)


    Any help is greatly appreciated... I am tired of my lights "winking".
     
  2. Feb 20, 2011 at 10:28 AM
    #2
    subtleshift

    subtleshift Noob

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  3. Feb 20, 2011 at 11:28 AM
    #3
    Skillet

    Skillet Well-Known Member

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    Do what I did DC power 270 amp special hairpin style billet aluminum cased alt .You'll have to run a 0 guage from the alt to a 200 amp buss fuse and then straight to the battery. I never drop from 14.9 volts ever, only downside a little power loss maybe 1-2 hp, and not cheap at 550.00 per Alt and like another 100.00 for the wire and fuse holder/fuse. You're lights will be brighter than ever before !
     
  4. Feb 20, 2011 at 11:36 AM
    #4
    chazjb

    chazjb [OP] Well-Known Member

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    yea i know about mean green and i just talked to them and they said there alt is $399.00. The GM alt is only $125... much cheaper. Im going to go with the GM... Ill make a write up and post it on here since i havent found a very good write up on TW yet.
     
  5. Feb 22, 2011 at 9:25 PM
    #5
    chazjb

    chazjb [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Deck plate mod, Magnaflow exhaust, Toytec 3in lift, Bestop canopy, Spray on bedliner across the bottom foot of the truck and fenders. HID 6000k 85W converted Hella 500's & 4000's, HID headlights 5000k 35W. Custom build roof basket, Pioneer Avic-x920bt deck with rockford amp and kicker sub.
    Alright guys I have got all the things needed to install the HO alt (GM CS-144) and also i purchased two yellow top optimas. I will also be doing the "big 3" upgrade. I hope this will all be finished tomorrow evening. I will make a write up full of pics as i remember to take them. As soon as I am finished hopefully thursday the posting will be on TW.

    [FONT=&quot] THE INSTALL!!!!!
    First off let me start off by saying that when you make a write up copy and paste your progress in word or something because if you accidently exit out its gone forever like what just happened to me..... CRAP!!!!

    So here is the write up for a dual battery, sure power battery separator, "Big Three Upgrade", and GM CS-144 alternator in a 1997 3.4L Tacoma.

    Supplies-
    [/FONT]

    1. [FONT=&quot]Two optima batteries. [/FONT]
    2. [FONT=&quot]Sure Power Battery Separator.[/FONT]
    3. [FONT=&quot]GM CS-144 alternator.[/FONT]
    4. [FONT=&quot]GM CS-144 pig tail.[/FONT]
    5. [FONT=&quot]120Amp alternator fuse.[/FONT]
    6. [FONT=&quot]4awg wire and heat shrink. (my wire is green with a yellow stripe)[/FONT]
    7. [FONT=&quot]Pre made 4wg negative wires. x2[/FONT]
    8. [FONT=&quot]1 Boat style battery terminal post style and 1 regular terminal.[/FONT]
    9. [FONT=&quot]Ring terminals.[/FONT]
    10. [FONT=&quot]Electrical tape and wire loom.[/FONT]
    11. [FONT=&quot]Wire strippers and box cutter.[/FONT]
    12. [FONT=&quot]Solder.[/FONT]
    13. [FONT=&quot]Welder and angle iron.[/FONT]
    14. [FONT=&quot]Camping propane tank and torch tip.[/FONT]
    15. [FONT=&quot]Regular hand tools.[/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]
    First off I took out the battery and alternator to see where the wires were that I was going to replace.
    [​IMG]

    Then I measured the area where I was going to put the second battery and found out the Cruise Control Module was in the way just a little so I took it out and then placed the battery back up there and it fit great. I ended up making a new bracket for the CCM. Once that was finished I made a bracket for the battery to sit in and used a spare boat battery strap to secure the battery to the bracket. I mounted the battery separator on the firewall away from direct heat and started to run my wires from battery B over to where battery A is going to be. I also took my aftermarket fuse block and wired it up to battery B. (waterproof housing thanks to Zip-lock haha)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    After that was all done I started to cut out all the electrical tape that was holding the main wire harness together so that I could run my larger wire through the factory wire loom (for the most part... big wire is hard to bend). Once all the orig wire loom was taken of I was able to separate the wires and replace what was needed. This is also the point that I wired up the GM harness to the factory harness. To do this I took the yellow wire from the factory harness and tied it into the furthest over small gauge wire on the GM harness then took the large wire in the GM harness and added a ring terminal and then placed it in the battery post on the alt. I just left the rest of the factory harness connected but taped it back and out of the way JIC I need it later.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Now for the tricky part. Since the factory wires go from alt to fuse block then fuse block to battery I had to really finagle the larger wire to make it still fit. The wire that comes from the fuse block and goes to the battery came out of a pretty small horseshoe looking hole which I had to cut open a little bigger but I think it all still came out looking pretty clean.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Quick pic of factory vs. aftermarket wire size. (10gauge to 4 gauge)
    [​IMG]

    Once all the wires were in I started working on the alternator install. Now since the GM alt is much bigger than the Toyota alt...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I had to loosen the bottom bracket that holds the alt tensioner so that it would fit the GM alt. The Gm top mount is also 1/4" smaller than Toyota so I had to fill the gap with a few washers. Make sure that you put the washers on the backside and not the front other the belt will sit crooked but once it was in I was able to tighten the bottom bracket and then work on wiring it up.
    [​IMG]

    I have since moved the belt in to be on the center of the pulley that way the belt is straight. (Toyota alt has 4 slot pulley and GM has 6)
    I also found it easier to take the driver tire off and to the wiring and tensioning through the wheel well since the GM alt is bigger it is hard to do a reach around on the GM alt lol.
    [​IMG]

    Here are a few pics of it all put back together...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The center green wire you see in the first pic is going down under the fuse block around all the goodies on the driver side fender and into black wire loom across the firewall to battery B (pic 2)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Alright that’s it... I think. If you have any questions feel free to pm me or post em. It was a big project but well worth it. I have not had one "wink" and the other night I left all lights on for a few hours playing some midnight football.[/FONT]
     
  6. Feb 22, 2011 at 9:31 PM
    #6
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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  7. Feb 23, 2011 at 12:19 AM
    #7
    DIRT YOTA

    DIRT YOTA Aka EL ROJO

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  8. Feb 23, 2011 at 9:00 PM
    #8
    Skillet

    Skillet Well-Known Member

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    Trd edition,black powdercoated wheels,king Coils front, king double bypass rear, k&n cai, jba headers,borla exhuast,optima batt,xenon hid,crystal headlights,rewired entire car to four guage wiring on big stuff alt starter etc.,alpine screen,focal honeycomb components,JL four channel amp,dynamated entire inside of truck and hoodliner,limo tint all rear windows,LEDs everywhere possible dome light, tails,fronts,04 tailights,
    Pics? I'm curios how this turned out my 270 amp is so hard for my truck to move that it burned a Goodyear belt right off! Lol Im runnin gates belts now (they suck!) in the cold my belt spins on the high power alt and makes me wonder if it will burn off too., and it's nice and tight...It don't spin on the pully when it's warm out it's weird.
     
  9. Feb 24, 2011 at 12:04 AM
    #9
    subtleshift

    subtleshift Noob

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    when its warm out the rubber is "tackier" for a lack of a better term...

    in the cold rubber get hard and brittle...thats not what she said
     
  10. Mar 6, 2011 at 8:58 PM
    #10
    jvbutter

    jvbutter Member

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    nice write up... thx, will this work on a runner???
     
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